How to convert a Perlick low-profile sankey tap to ball lock

Hey everyone,

So this is something I've had on my to-do list for a while, and I finally got to it. Now I have a setup where I can easily switch between commercial kegs and cornies in my kegerator. I got one of those Perlick low-profile sankey taps at Beverage Factory the other day for $48. Here are the list of parts:

1) 1x Low-profile sankey tap: HERE
2) 2x 1/4" MFL to 1/8" MPT adapter: HERE
3) 2x Flare Swivel 1/4" Barb Stem x 1/4" FFL Nut: HERE
4) 1x Ball Lock Gas Connector Threaded: HERE
5) 1x Ball Lock Liquid Connector Threaded: HERE
6) A 7/16" wrench

Except for the tap, I was able to get it all from one store, which is a big plus for me. Getting the barb adapters off of the tap was kind of a PITA, so I'd recommend putting it on a keg so it's a lot easier. Anyway, these will be threaded connections, not exactly the most plug and play like some other conversions I've seen, but there's a lot less parts, a lot less chance of leaks, and it looks better. Plus, it's just a threaded connector, how often do you change a keg in the kegerator that unscrewing a nut becomes a hassle?

I've attached a picture of the tap assembled with the parts.

Hope that helps others in search of a good conversion!

 

I think I follow what you did. You replaced the barbs on the sankey tap with mfl's. If you already have the mfl ball lock connectors and the barbed nuts you don't need those items. The left side on your picture is gas in and the original barb post has a check valve in it. You lose the check valve on the original barb but have a check valve inline somewhere between the connector and regulator. Good suggestion. It will work.

 

Make sure you use the MFL washers on those connections, and make sure you use PTFE tape on the NPT connections.

 

Just wanted to post my thanks for sharing this info, I converted my Low Profile Sanke D coupler this evening using this method. The advice to do this mod while the coupler is attached to an empty keg was very helpful, I had zero luck removing the original adapters before attaching the coupler to a keg but once I did it was a breeze (only downside is you'll have to find an empty sanke keg to make the conversion -- wouldn't work with a full keg as beer would just spray out of the beer-out as you tried to remove the adapters).

As mentioned above, the only pieces you need to get the final result shown in the photo are the Sanke D coupler itself and the two 1/4" MFL to 1/8" MPT adapters (which will replace the barbed gas and beer out adapters that come with the coupler). If your kegging setup is already configured for swivel nuts, you won't need items 3-5 (and presumably you'll also have a correctly-sized wrench).

Thanks again!

 

Glad to know it worked out! As for removing the barbs, you can do with a full keg too, but just screw the base of the tap in, don't push down the top part, and it'll work just the same.

Beer on!

 

Those barbs seem to have some sort of thread locker glue from the factory. I couldn't remove them with a crescent wrench, but got them off with ease when using impact driver.

 

Thanks for the link as I had no idea where to find the adaptors that I needed! Just ordered a pair.

 

I know people like using the swivel nuts to install/remove lines. But I prefer using ball locks on everything. No need for wrenches. Just another option.

 

Was there any issue with getting proper torque on the elbows while keeping them angled in the desired direction?

 

Nope. Again, helps when installing with the tap on a keg. You may have to give it a little more effort the last 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

 

I like this option. Do you have a parts list?

 

Adapter for Cornelius Keg Posts 1/4" FFL x 19/32"-18 (x2=$19.98)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/adapter-for-corny-plugs-1-4-ffl-x-19-32-18.html

Keg Post Assembly Gas Type B ($11.99)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/plug-assembly-gas-type-b-all-cornelius-ball-lock.html

Keg Post Assembly Liquid Type B ($11.99)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/plug-assembly-liq-type-b-all-cornelius-ball-lock.html

Flared Nylon Washer (x2=$0.98)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/flared-nylon-washer.html

Type 316 Stainless Steel 37° Flared Tube Fittings (x2=$31.04)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#50715K181

I believe this is everything I used-double check. Total is about $76 But I prefered to have both connections on one "side" versus each end if I had gone with a straight fitting rather than the 90°'s. Makes it easier for me to add/remove kegs with my setup.

 

Sub'd.

 

How tall is that setup with the ball lock posts attached from the bottom of the keg to the highest point of the coupler?

 

Without any fittings and un-tapped, its about 1.5"
With ball locks, you'll need 1.75" at least.

All of this is from the top of "your" keg. Some can sit at different heights.

 

Awesome, thanks for the info.

 

Don't know if this will help anyone, but I'll throw it out there. If you don't have an empty keg laying around two crescents will do the trick just fine. Trying to hold the coupler body in my hand and remove the fittings was a wash for me but then I realized that it was molded so that you can get a wrench on there. Not the most obvious thing at first, but makes it a cinch once you realize it.

 

I am looking into doing this setup and had a question about item #2:
- 1/4" MFL to 1/8" MPT adapter

Is that correct? the coupler looks like it has 1/4"MPT not the 1/8"

 

Remember pipe sizes are trade sizes, pretty out of whack with the actual size of the fitting. On this page:

http://www.stpats.com/manuals/MEP manuals/corkerNewManuals/NPTSizing.pdf

It lists a 1/8" male NPT fitting as having an outer diameter of 0.405"

 

I just notiticed that the piece you remove from the lo-boy coupler has a check valve in it. Anyone else that replced these notice that? And did you add it in the gas line?

 

I just noticed that the piece you remove from the lo-boy coupler has a check valve in it. Anyone else that replaced these notice that? And did you add it in the gas line?

 

I removed it. BUT, I already had a check valve right after my manifold. So, it was redundant. As long as there's a check valve along the way, you have piece of mind.

 

Thanks for the parts list for the ball lock conversion. I just finished mine up: