Help wiring temperature controller

I ordered this temperature controller form ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320926548163?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Here's a picture that I scanned of the wiring diagram:



I followed a guide for this type of temperature controller, which looks exactly the same. So I ordered this one, and the wiring diagram is slightly different. If someone could photoshop me what to put where, that would be very helpful. It doesn't exactly specify which whether 1 or 2 is for the hot wire. The temp probe is self explanatory, but 4 seems to share the temp probe and "function control", which I'm not sure what that is anyway.

It was cheap, so I'm not worried about guessing with it, but we have a pigroast in a couple weeks that we were hoping to have some carbonated beer for. Thanks for the help.

 

You are over thinking it.
Since it is not a 3 wire ac input (no ground) it really doesn't matter how you hook it up on 1&2.
Terminal 4 is the common for both the temp probe and function control, so just land your probe between 3&4. Function control is likely rigged to an optional switch of some kind, but you shouldn't need to worry about that.

The only thing you need to be sure of is to make sure your load does not exceed 5amps.
Depending on the size of your fridge the load can be anywhere between 3-10 amps; there should be a sticker somewhere on the fridge that details the max current.

 

Hmm it says 5 amps, is that pushing it? Also, speaking of the ground wire, can I just bypass the controller for the ground, or leave it out completely?

Also the terrible instructions that came with it claim "Relay contact current: Rated 10A"

 

Have to bypass the controller for ground because there isn't one on the controller.
Just run the ground directly to the ground on the outlet.

 

That's what I thought, don't know much about wiring things

I updated my last post before I saw yours, but I'm wondering about the limitations of this controller. According to the paperwork that came with it:

Also the terrible instructions that came with it claim "Relay contact current: Rated 10A"

Or is mredge73 correct about the 5A limitation?

 

I have this same controller. Am at work but when I get home I will draw and send wiring diagram. It's one that makes you think to much. It really simple to hook up though

 

Thank you I would really appreciate that. I'd feel a lot more comfortable with some "tried and true" wiring from someone else with the same controller.

 

The eBay link you had said 5A on it.

 

I have two of these controllers one on my fermentation fridge and one on keezer and haven't had problems.

 

I see, I didn't notice that. I guess there's only one way to find out the truth... do you think the freezer claiming 5A could cause a problem if the controller is in fact rated at 5A? I guess I didn't look into this very well before hand lol. What model do most other people use? I'm just wondering so I know what to order next if this thing goes poof.

 

It sounds like it is under control. Having a five amp load on something rated at five amps isn't ideal but at the same time it is within the rating of the unit. The load is on for what maybe 5 to 15 minutes at a time so it's not anything near being a continuous load so that may help.

Yes definitely make sure the ground to the refrigerator is actually grounded. Otherwise if the thing has a hot fault to the chassis your breaker won't trip but it could certainly electrocute someone touching it.

 

The Ebay ad says 5A but the controller says 10A
I would go with the controller documentation and say it is good.

 

I've got the same controller working my freezer and it works great. When i get home, ill post back how i have it wired if nobody has responded by that time

 

Thanks, nickel, another member said he was going to give me diagram also. But hey I'll take a diagram from whoever posts first. I want one to print out for future reference because I would probably use this again since they're only 13 bucks.

 

so sorry this is really sloppy but hopefully it makes since i am doing from in laws computer and have actual diagram at home. Let me know if it makes since.

jake

 

That makes sense to me except for one thing, is your diagram in reverse? Because it looks like your 1 and 2 are really 6 and 7 (loading).

 

1 and 2 are power for thermostat and 6 and 7 are power for outlet. The Chinese didn't translate very well. It should say just load. Which is load going out for power of the outlet. Make since?

 

Ok thanks for the sketch I got it now.

 

Ok I'm wiring it up now. It seems a little weird that the black goes to 1 and 7 but I'm going for it anyway.

 

Its all good. Let me know how it goes and if you need help

 

I have it all hooked up now. After I set everything and plugged it in, the freezer didn't come on. I did set a 10 minute delay so it might be waiting. If it doesn't come on in 10 minutes I'll have to ask you how you have your settings.

 

Ok it just came on, thanks for all of your help. If you get a chance though I would appreciate your settings just to compare to mine, the directions made me lol at their obvious use of google translate haha.

 

Sure I will let you know when I get home from work

 

So...
HC is choosing between if you want the thermostat to heat or cool - 00 is cool and 01 is heat so for us we want it on 00

D on display is return difference setting which i figured out is how many degrees it has to go up or down till thermostat kicks on. I have mine on 1 degree so that the freezer kicks on at one degree difference.

LS (Lowest setting) is setting to change minimum temp - mine got left alone

HS (Highest setting) is setting to change maximum temp - mine got left alone

CA is to calibrate the thermostat if temperature value is off - mine got left alone

PT is the delay time the thermostat waits to kick on after temp changes - mine is set to 0 so it kicks on soon as freezer changes

Thanks
Jake

 

Thanks for the reply. I set my min temp to 45 and max to 48. I set a 10 minute delay for the freezer to kick on to avoid it cycling on and off repeatedly. I'm thinking this may help the motor last longer and avoid damage.