Help! My PID won't turn on | HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk by donating:

  1. Dismiss Notice
  2. We have a new forum and it needs your help! Homebrewing Deals is a forum to post whatever deals and specials you find that other homebrewers might value! Includes coupon layering, Craigslist finds, eBay finds, Amazon specials, etc.
    Dismiss Notice

Help! My PID won't turn on

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by zachd1, Jan 18, 2014.

 

  1. #1
    zachd1

    Member

    Posted Jan 18, 2014
    I have wired my system according to the PJ diagram seen below. However, when I energize the system, my PID does not light up.

    I have tried pressing both buttons and flipping the switch, but none of it works.

    Also, my two resistors are getting extremely hot when I plug the panel in.

    2014-01-13 00.42.02.jpg

    2014-01-13 00.42.46.jpg

    DeSmit_Wire_Diagram.jpg
     
  2. #2
    mrwizard0

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 18, 2014
    Can you get a pic of the other side of the pid? It might help to see what's going on. From the pics, I can't see a neutral (white) going to the pid. Other than that, I see 4 switches on the diagram and only 3 on your panel so there is probably something missing
     
  3. #3
    zachd1

    Member

    Posted Jan 18, 2014
    I will try to get the picture.

    I should have noted, I do not have a pump installed, so the pump power button and outlet have been removed.
     
  4. #4
    zachd1

    Member

    Posted Jan 18, 2014
    The four wires coming off the other side of the PID go to
    SSR +
    SSR -
    Neutral Bus
    Other side of PID power button

    Thank you for looking at this for me. It is frustrating that this isn't working.

    2014-01-18 15.01.53.jpg
     
  5. #5
    mrwizard0

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 18, 2014
    It's hard to see anything wrong in that other than all wires are green (usually meaning ground). Do you have a multimeter? You can see if there is power coming in on the hot line? 2 other thoughts. The wire coming from the switch to the pid looks frayed in the pic, hopefully it isn't. Also, maybe wire check the fuse, or test it without the fuse to see if there are connection issues there
     
  6. #6
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    It sounds like you either have the E-Stop switch wired wrong (You should use the N/O contact in the switch) Or it is in the locked & engaged position. With the resistors getting hot it's also indicating that the E-Sop is indeed engaged and also it indicates that you more than likely chose resistors with a value that is allowing more current to flow than is necessary to trip the GFCI breaker.


    I hope this makes sense and helps you.

    P-J
     
  7. #7
    zachd1

    Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    You are correct, I have the wrong type of contacts in the estop.

    Aside from ordering different contacts, do you know how I could solve this problem?
     
  8. #8
    jsguitar

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    Just take the fuse going to the e-stop circuit out until you get the correct contact for the switch. The controller will function without the e-stop circuit.

    Just to double check though, did you check your GFCI and find that it tripped?
     
  9. #9
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    Leave the E-stop circuit out of it.
     
  10. #10
    zachd1

    Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    The circuit did not trip. And removing the e-stop circuit did not work either.
     
  11. #11
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    Do you have a multi-meter or a 110V test light?

    If so, make sure that you have 110V on PID terminal 9 & 10 you turn the PID power on.

    Does your PID power switch have a LED in it as the diagram shows? Does it illuminate? EDIT - Never mind - I see your switch doesnt have an LED in it.
     
  12. #12
    atoughram

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    I see that you are using a green wire coming from the neutral bar and a black wire coming from the PID Power switch to the PID. I assume they go to the PID.
     
  13. #13
    P-J

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    Well - After looking at and studying your wiring plan, I do not have a clue. I see green wiring going to places that do not require grounding wiring.

    I do not even know if you have GFCI protection to your controller. And - If so - does it function? Do you have a GFCI breaker in place or a spa panel installed for your controller power feed?
     
  14. #14
    stlbeer

    Senior Member  

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    If you are using pushbutton switches without lights in them, I have a suspicion that you've wired both the hot and neutral to the switch. A neutral is required to a switch only to complete the circuit for the light.

    It seems you don't have a multimeter. Go get one so you can determine the problem.

    At the very least, wire the pid power directly to the terminal strips and then plug it in. If nothing else, that should supply power to the PID. Once you know that's working correctly you can move on to the next thing.
     
  15. #15
    mattd2

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jan 19, 2014
    Did you wire you plug yourself as well? If you did you might want to check that no wires got transposed there also. my concern is the E-stop is not tripping the GFCI and so something is wrong there, obviously current is flowing in the circuit as the resistors are getting hot. Just to ask again - the circuit you are plugging this into difinately has a GFCI breaker? And you have check it is the correct circuit by tripping the breaker at the panel and confirming no power at the switch?
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page

Group Builder