Help! (Kal build keggle Greenlee Hole issue)

I'm building Kal's e-brewery and ran into a snag.

Was planning on punching my keg holes for the elements this weekend but when I did a test-punch on another piece of metal, the 1 1/4" Greenlee made a hole that is larger than the entire element bracket (1 11/16"). Isn't it supposed to be just barely large enough for the threads to fit through and then push against the black rubber part?

Also, even though I bought Camco 02963 elements on Amazon, the actual element is stamped "02962" 240v 5500w I can't find anything on Google about a Camco 02962 but wondering if it is a different thread size.

When you punched your keggles, what size hole punch did you use? How much space was there around the threads? Did you use a Greenlee 1 1/4" punch or am I supposed to know that a 1 1/4" punch makes a significantly larger hole??

Most importantly, does anyone have an idea for a workaround (washer?) to mount my elements using this size hole?

Thanks

 

Sounds like you got a conduit knockout punch instead of a hole punch. The conduit punch makes a hole large enough for a threaded fitting for electrical conduit to be placed.

1/2" punch makes a hole 7/8"
3/4" = 1-3/32"
1" = 1-11/32"
1-1/4" = 1-11/16"

 

Ahhh that makes sense. Thanks PJ

So is there a clever workaround/adapter to go ahead and use this size or should I go back to the drawing board and order the right one?

 

I would not use that punch. You risk scrapping your kettle.
You could pick up a conduit punch set ($15) from harborfreight.com - knockout-punch-kit then use the 3/4" punch. You would need to enlarge the hole a little bit after you make the hole.

Take the same precautionary step you did to be sure. (You punched a test hole.)

Hope this helps.

P-J

 

I made a similar mistake, except I punched mine with a 1" ko punch (conduit size) It still sealed up when I put the washers and orings as per kal's instuctions. I know you're likely only going to use the step bit just for this project, but I highly reccomend getting the 1" greenlee brand step bit. I use mine a couple times a week for work and I've had it for several years, still works like a champ. To save a few bucks you could use a 7/8" hole saw and make a starter hole then finish it off with a step bit. Test fit the element every so often, as you don't need to go all the way to the end of the step bit. Worst case senario if you blow out your kettle holes too large is to have a weld bung brazed in.

 

Not really an adapter, but a welding spud could be soldered into an oversized hole (1 9/16" - 1 5/8") w/ silver solder if that interests you. This seems like a great way to mount an electric element. If you want to go weldless, the hole must only be slightly larger than the threaded portion of the element and you will need a different punch or drill bits as stated above...
http://www.brewhardware.com/fittings/120-spuds

 

Thanks for the spud/silver solder response. I considered this very thing, but it says 1 5/8" max hole size and the one I have would make a 1 11/16"
In my world, I rarely notice or care about 1/16 of an " but if I am reading it correctly, that would mean the entire spud would fit through the hole with 1/16" to spare (kinda' like that game "operation" we played as kids)

Anyhoo... I pulled the trigger and ordered the right size greenlee HOLE PUNCH. I emailed the seller 2x to be sure the hole size is 1.25 so we'll see if he is right.

I'm trying really hard not to rush, but it's tough when the finish line is so clearly visible ahead.

Thanks for the responses all. (especially PJ contributing the chart. I could have used that a few months ago--haha)

 

Sorry to hear about the punch. I just listed a 11/4" punch that I know works as I just did my pots. See the classified section if interested.

 

No worries. I pulled one on ebay. Max bid won it by $.50 over the other guy