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Help figuring out parts for 3 tier stand propane manifold.

Discussion in 'Brew Stands' started by whiteheadcraftbeers, Jun 14, 2012.

 

  1. #1
    whiteheadcraftbeers

    Member

    Posted Jun 14, 2012
    Ok I know I am probably beating a dead horse here with the whole propane manifold question but, I have no idea really what parts I will need to build a manifold for a 3 tier tree style brewing stand. I plan on using black pipe for the tubing and teflon tape and pipe dope on all the connections and 3 ball valves rated for propane gas use. I am using 3 bayou classic burners(yeah I know, I should get banjos but, swmbo controls the pocket book)I just want to know what kind of fittings and hose assemblys to get to make it work safe. Any information or tips would be great! Cheers! :mug:
     
  2. #2
    carlisle_bob

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 14, 2012
    Hi

    The black pipe is your manifold in this case. The tee's and pipe sections are what create the manifold. Put another way:

    Each valve pairs with the middle of a tee. The outside arms of the tee go to chunks of the middle tee go to chunks of pipe. Both of those chunks to to the other tee's (and valves). A plug goes in the top tee. Your supply line goes in the bottom tee.

    After the ball valves you will need tubing to get to the needle valves that control flow to the burners. Exactly what sort depends on weather you are setting up for low pressure (< 0.5 psi) or high pressure (up to 30 psi) propane. Which will you be running?

    Bob
     
  3. #3
    whiteheadcraftbeers

    Member

    Posted Jun 14, 2012
    Bob, I plan on going with high pressure. I guess I am confused, I will need ball valves and needle valves or just needle valves. I guess I thought you just had to go propane tank hose to bottom of manifold then a length of pipe to first tier, use a tee then a ball valve and another length of pipe then hose to connect from manifold to burner, then repeat for each tier and use a pipe cap at the top to close it off. I guess maybe I'm more confused then I thought. Thanks again!

    Tim
     
  4. #4
    carlisle_bob

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 15, 2012
    Hi

    You can go with needle valves and no ball valves, but not with ball valves and no needle valves. The "primo" way to go is ball (or gate) valves and needle valves. That way you can set the needle to have the right flame level and just use the other valve to turn things on and off.

    If you are running high pressure, be sure you are running tube that's rated for 30 psi. Tubing (copper or aluminum) is a good choice. There are several other choices.

    Will you be running pilot lights (highly recommended)? if so they need their own feed....

    Will you be running ignitors (also highly recommended)? If so they need electric valves.

    Bob
     
  5. #5
    Patirck

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 15, 2012
    High pressure is fine unless you want to add automation - the honeywell valves and like use low pressure. You can use low pressure without automation as well. Low versus High pressure is determined by the regulator on the propane bottle.
     
  6. #6
    whiteheadcraftbeers

    Member

    Posted Jun 15, 2012
    Bob, at this point I will not be running pilot lights or ignitors, just want to keep it cheep yet safe and functional;). Ok with this knowledge in hand what are the list of the rest of the fittings I will need to get this done right?

    Patrick, I'm using a 0-40PSI regulator.

    Thanks again!

    Tim
     
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