Fridge to Fermentation chamber conversion

Hi

I have a old fridge that I want to convert to a fermentation chamber,

The fridge has a Ranco K59 L1035 thermostat in it and I have purchased a cold room thermostat model F2000 -35 to +35 Degrees C.

The question is can I replace the current thermostat with the new one or would it be easier to create a external plug to control the switching on and off of the fridge.

The pin on the two vary in name

Ranco 3, 6, 4
F2000 P1, 1, 2

In the new one the wiring is to be
c = common
1 = open temp rise
2 = close temp rise

Is P1 the common?

Any assistance would be appreciated

 

Hey Solly,

did you get this to work? I got my hands on the same F2000, and have no idea how to wire it into my defy fridge. Did you come right?

 

Hi

Yes I was able to get it working, will post some pic later today or tomorrow

Regards

 

Hi

I created an extension, attached the thermostat to the outside of the fridge, and drilled a hole for the capillary tube to be inside the fridge. The hole was sealed afterwards with silicon.

I plug the lead into the wall outlet, and plug the fridge into the extension

Wiring,

Cut the earth wire and connect it to the body of the thermostat, cut the live (brown) wire and attached it to P1 and 2, I used spade connectors and ring connectors available from any electrical outlet.

Regards

 

Hi Solly,

thanks for the pics - much appreciated.

i've wired my thermostat in today and it looks like it's working. i've done mine a bit differently, i found the live wire for the compressor at the fridge thermostat and wired this across my new unit. it looks like the lights and everything else are still working and then my temperature control unit simply switches the compressor on and off as required (i hope!).

if it's still sitting at the correct temp tomorrow I'm going to start my next wheat beer.

SnotPoodle:
My fridge is also a Defy - a call to the workshop put me through to a helpful guy who explained the wiring to me. if you need some help with yours still give me a shout.

cheers,
brendan

Edit: system's working well, the analogue dial takes a little bit of judgement to set to the exact temperature desired but once set it seems pretty stable. Dunkel's been in fridge since yesterday, fermentation temp is good and fermentation kicked in overnight

 

Hi. I have bought a thermostat with also p1, 2 and 1. I need to controls my heater and fan in a box. Pls how will I wire it. Thanks

 

Please can you help me with the problem of wiring of the same thermostat... I tried to connect the live wire in P1 and 2 but seem it's not working. Pls some help

 

Hi

I have the same thermostat but am still struggling to understand the wiring - please could you help? (I'm using a KIC fridge/freezer combo for my fermentation chamber)
Main questions I have are which cable needs to do to the wall outlet and what to do with the neutral wires?

I have tried to show with help from a diagram - Please let me know if my understanding is correct?:
1. Fridge plugs into 'box' of extension cable
2. Hole drilled into side of fridge for thermostat probe
3. Live wire from 'box' of extension cable attached to 'P1'; earth attached to the body of the thermostat (not sure about neutral?)
4. Live wire from wall outlet attached to '2'; earth attached to the body of the thermostat (not sure about neutral?)
5. Neutral wires: what did you do with these - are they connected to each other? Or do they not connected to anything?
Also, are cables labelled 3 and 4 the right way around? i.e.
does the live wire attached to P1 go to the extension, and live wire attached to '2' go to the wall, or
should the live wire attached to 2 go to the extension, and live wire attached to 'P1' go to the wall?

Lastly - I'm wondering if I would also be able to control a heating source with this thermostat as well?
Any help hugely appreciated!

 

Nuetrals, tie together

your live wire is the one coming from the power source, the one going to the fridge is the switched wire

technically how the diagram is, it will work, unless it needs power from the power source to work, however the wire from the power source should go to P1 and the switch wire should go to 2. If it needs power to work then it will not work unless the live wire is on P1 ( with out a long discussion on how the unit opens and closes the switches, I would think that live power needs to be on p1 to work)
that means if the temp rises the circuit to 2 closes and the refer goes on and the unit cools. If you wanted it to control a heat source you would put the switch on 1 when the temperature dropped the circuit would close and the heater would come on heating whatever till the probe detected set point and opened the circuit

 

Thank so much!
Ideally I'd like to have a heat source as well and probably a mini fan to keep temp consistent, so this info helps a lot! Thanks again