Filtering.... Just saw this little toy...Anyone use one?

Plate Filter Kit - Deluxe | MoreBeer

Seems like it might just fix my Hoppy mess that is in my keg....

If there are users out there please let me know hot well it works filtering hops debris. I'm thinking it might be too fine and will clog when I try to pass my "Mud" beer through it.....

Cheers and thanks in advance.

 

Can you post a pic? Work blocks more beer.

 

Have you tried cold crashing then transferring to another keg? The trick is not to move the keg once it has been cold crashed. You will leave almost all sediment behind. For an actual filter I like the household water filters, they have much more surface area. The only downside is the filter is single use, so have more than one keg ready to filter.

 

"Plate Filter Kit - Deluxe
FIL45B

Filter like the Pros, only on a smaller scale. Most breweries and wineries use a large plate filter system to achieve clear product. Now you can do the same at home with two Cornelius style kegs. Our new Plate Filter has a larger surface area, which means more yeast and particulate extraction. The Deluxe Plate Filter System comes with our plate filter, two disposable filter pads, tubing, flare fittings, and two flare beverage ball locks. Each filtering session requires two pads at a time, and each pad must be the same micron to work. The beer or wine is pushed out of the keg and into the housing at 5 PSI, where it passes on either side of the filter housing, then gets forced through the pads to the center, where it is pushed out into your clean keg. The rough sides of both filters should be facing each other on the inside of the filter, so the smooth sides face outward.

Download the FIL45B instructions here.

Each filter pad set is good for approximately 5 gallons of beer when the beer has been filtered by the previous size pads or you are starting with the rough filters. These pads are not designed to be back flushed and reused and should be used in one session. "

Interesting...

 

Beerthirty.

The problem is that there is most likely 4-5 inches of "Sludge" in the bottom of my keg.

When I racked from secondary, I didn't realize the amount of hops that were flowing through the filterbag I had on my racking cane untill it clogged 1/2 way through the transfer. Then after repeated cleanings and restart of the siphoning I gave up and had to toss about a galon of muck that was in the secondary as the amount of sludge going through the cane was like mud.

I have avoided moving the keg after I presurized it with CO2 and evacuated the O2. But mainly because I haven't determined what to do next as from looking at what was in the secondary afterward, my fears are that it's going to be hopeless to clear in the keg. Even my first beer (brewed in Dec) hads sediment that stirrs up when I pull my tap now 2 months later, and that was "Clear" when racked to keg. This one is just going to be 1/2 garbage. I just want to save as much as possible as this was not a cheap brew. and equipement that I can use later is still money well spent rather than just dumping the lot and starting over.

 

I use a water filter, but for any filtration the trick is to use a coarse filter first. By coarse, I mean 5 micron or larger. If the brew needs further clearing, you'd run it through a 1 micron pad/cartridge.

 

I use the same filters (modified) in my set-up.
If you have that much hops debris you need a different pre filter or change your process (shorter dip tube if Conies).
You won't be happy with one filter only.







Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

ClaudiusB, can you explain just how that works, or is there a post I missed that explains it?

 

My filtering process?


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

Yes and that contraption you have pictured above

 


Part 1
One major difference between how filters are operated in breweries and the wine industry is that
brewers filter the beer after it is carbonated.
To keep the CO2 in the solution, the filter is pressurized.
The plate filters sold by our local home brew stores are not made to withstand CO2 pressure above 5
PSI, and the “dirt holding capacity” is low requiring more plates.
To withstand higher pressures I made my design based on commercial plate filters.
Keep in mind internal forces can exceed 700-1000 lb of force inside each filter housing in my set-up.

Strong frame, clamp screw and splash guard


Frame


My set-up is a three-stage filtration system, from rough to fine within the same frame.


The process starts with my modified aging tanks.
The dip tubes are shorter than in my dispensing tanks.

 

Part 2
The filtration procedure is broken into several steps:
1.Sanitizing the filter by pushing SANICLEAN through the filter and lines with CO2
2. 5 min SANICLEAN rest
3. The SANICLEAN is drained from the filter and lines with CO2
4. The filter is connected to the cold to be filtered beer tank through the door of the aging fridge



5. The beer is filtered to the pressurized bright beer tank
6. Once the tank is empty the same CO2 is used to force the remaining beer out of the filter and
transfer lines.
7. Finally, the filter is cleaned and stored.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

Wow, real nice. Thanks for the details, I really appreciate it. I learned something!

 

Oh my dog, that is farking incredible!

 

Wow! Claudius, do you give brewery tours? :rockin:

 

Any time

My set-up is like a movie set, looks good from a distance.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

wowwie! That's pretty sick.

 

ok.off topic a bit, but here goes anyway.

I use a 1 micron filter only and get a fairly clear beer (usually). Would there be a benefit from me putting inline progressively smaller mesh filter media?

Sean

 

I've said it before, I'll say it again: when it comes to beer, mans ingenuity is nothing short of astounding. :rockin: