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excessive foaming on kegerator

Discussion in 'Bottling/Kegging' started by ronjonacron, Sep 16, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    I have this kegerator that i got for a steal of a deal. Ive had a witbier in it for about 3-4 weeks now. It sits very cool at 33 degrees and have had it about 10 psi per the set it and forget it method. Ive used the keg lines balancing calculator and my line is supposed to be 4 feet to be serving 9 psi.

    Im pouring entire glasses of foam, and ive wasted several pints on this endeavor.

    Ive read in a couple places that people just go 10 foot of beer line and be done with it.

    Is it possibke this could solve my issue? I hate bottling beer, but at least i get a good pint in 3 weeks.

    Please advise.

    Also. Ive tried purging the keg and dropping the psi to like 4 and still get a glass full of foam. Longer lines?
     
  2. #2
    jkw1000

    Active Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    I'm new to kegging, but know of three possible things to check. First, I set my pressure around 5 psi. I'm never at 10. Next, make sure your lines are from a brew store and not from Home Depot or alike. Those lines are soft and will expand. They expand because the CO2 releases out of the liquid and foam is created. Lines from a brew store are heavy duty and don't expand. Lastly, you may need to clean the lines. It will foam with dirty lines.

    Hope this helps!
    John
     
  3. #3
    ResumeMan

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    What is your line inside diameter? The length calculators are generally based on 3/16. If you're using something larger that would explain it.

    Blow off all the pressure in the keg, then set it to like 2 psi. If you get a foam free beer, then that's telling you that for one reason or another the line isn't providing adequate resistance at your serving conditions.
     
  4. #4
    fosaisu

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    Your lines are almost certainly too short. I've never used the line length calculator but I've read elsewhere that there are some terrible ones out there.

    Dropping your serving pressure wouldn't be a great solution since a) people report that serving at a lower pressure than you carbed can lead to foaming problems, b) doing that will eventually drop the carb level in your beer, and c) it's no fun constantly changing the pressure back and forth every time you want to serve a beer.

    Instead you should just get longer lines. If you're using standard beer/beverage line people seem to have good luck with 10-12 feet lengths (I use Bev-Seal, which is supposed to eliminate any vinyl taste but you have to use significantly longer lines, so my knowledge of standard beer line lengths comes only from reading on this site). It will slow your pour down a bit but you'll get beer instead of foam, which is generally the point!
     
  5. #5
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    Went ahead and tried this and still coming out about 3/4 glass foam.
     
  6. #6
    jflongo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    Just to let you know, I had a 3ft line on my keg output, and was getting tons of foam with my oatmeal stout. I switched it to my 5ft line, and got a ton less foam. Try switching this to 6ft or so, and see if that fixes it.
     
  7. #7
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    I guess my next step is to get some new beer lines then. Ill see what happens with significantly lengthening them.
     
  8. #8
    fosaisu

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    Another thing to consider is to buy 10' or 12', and then if you're getting too slow of a pour just trim it back a foot at a time. Beats buying 5', then 6', then 7' etc. Luckily beer line is pretty cheap, so for a couple of dollars you can experiment and find a length that works for you.
     
  9. #9
    jflongo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    Yep I agree you may want to go straight to 10'. The only reason I had 3 ft, the LHBS put it together for me, and I didn't pay attention to the length. I have no idea why they only made it 3ft. 5ft works pretty well for me, but I just have a picnic tap right now. Eventually when I go to a keezer, I'll be doing 10'.
     
  10. #10
    duboman

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 16, 2013
    I would get a good 10-12' of Bevflex tubing, 3/16" ID and it should solve your problem. You also need to be sure that the lines are refrigerated from keg to tap, ideally a consistent temperature, If it gets warm at the tap it will foam up as well, at least the first pint. Your pour will be a little slower but it should eliminate the foam issue.
     
  11. #11
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 17, 2013
    Tthe lines are in he fridge, tap is on the door, survey says longer lines, ill swing by lhbs tomorrow for lines and probly just get new adapters and everything while im there.

    Ill report back with the findings.
     
  12. #12
    DrunkleJon

    Objects in mirror are closer than they appear  

    Posted Sep 17, 2013
    Yep. Can't advocate enough skipping the line length calculators (which tend to be made more for commercial bar applications over the home brew scale) and just go with 10-12 feet to start off. Lowering serving pressure will cause the CO2 to come out of solution which causes foamy first pours, much like warm taps and lines will.
     
  13. #13
    ruckusone

    New Member

    Posted Sep 17, 2013
    I don't really reply much in here but maybe we are missing the obvious, are you pouring the beer correctly? I mean are you opening the tap fully in one quick motion rather than half way?
     
  14. #14
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 17, 2013
    Yup, i have beer taps at work, so ive poured out of kegs before plenty of times, flick it to the on position, no babying it. I give it like a 3 finger slap.
     
  15. #15
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 17, 2013
    Thats kind of how im comparing the dispense rate, its coming out waaay too fast, even at very low psi, im going to lbhs after class tomorrow to get new lines.
     
  16. #16
    jflongo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    You'll definitely notice a huge difference. Just going from 3' to 5' on my picnic tap, I noticed a huge difference in pouring speed. Going to 10' you should be good, let us know how it turns out.
     
  17. #17
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    Stopping by lbhs today after class. Its a smaller one so hopefully they have the proper lines.
     
  18. #18
    jflongo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    If not, home depot, lowes, ace hardware, you could probably get lines from there as well.
     
  19. #19
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    And cheaper lilely too. Others made it seem like i had to be choosey about lines due to enpansion in the lines causing faoming as well. I have a lowes a block from my house and need some type of T valve to hook up both kegs to one regulator. Perhaps ill skip lbhs and head to lowes
     
  20. #20
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    don't! You definitely want to fix your problem. You need beverage (thick walled) tubing, with no vinyl flavor pick up.
     
  21. #21
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    I know this was posted a while ago, but I wanted to mention that your regulator should never be at 5 psi unless you like flat beer. 5 psi at 39 degrees is 1.86 volumes of co2- nearly flat.

    10-12 psi is generally a good "general" carb level for most average beers.
     
  22. #22
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    Just called the lhbs and they have braided 1/4" hose and splitters, so i just gotta check my system and make sure 1/4" will fit.
     
  23. #23
    zachattack

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    You don't want 1/4", you want 3/16" ID. Big difference.
     
  24. #24
    Yooper

    Ale's What Cures You! Staff Member  

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    Correct! This is very important.
     
  25. #25
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    Hmmmm they definately said quarter inch and it seems like that what i have.

    She assured me thats what she uses on her kegs. Ill snap a pic real quick of what i have.
     
  26. #26
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    ForumRunner_20130918_145140.jpg



    ForumRunner_20130918_145239.jpg
     
  27. #27
    jflongo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    I use 3/16" liquid 5/16" gas.

    1/4" may be way too fast.
     
  28. #28
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    Thats what they have, maybe ill just experiment with extra long lines and see what happens. 12' is only a few bucks
     
  29. #29
    JuanMoore

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Sep 18, 2013
    To get the same resistance from 1/4" ID line as you'd get from 3/16", it needs to be 3-4 times longer. Larger diameter line like 1/4" is typically used in long draw systems in bars and restaurants, where the kegs are 20-50' away from the faucets.

    As mentioned, thin walled 3/16" tubing from the hardware store will expand slightly under pressure, reducing it's effective resistance, but IME it's not such a large difference that it's likely to cause foaming. IMO the real issue is that it makes the first beer of every drinking session taste like you're chewing on a car tire.
     
  30. #30
    DrunkleJon

    Objects in mirror are closer than they appear  

    Posted Sep 19, 2013
    That looks like heat resistant tubing, not gas or even beverage line. I could see it working as gas line if it holds the pressure, but for the wet side I would not use anything that large at least in a homebrew application. You would need freaking long lines. I can see it maybe in a commercial bar where you are pushing the product tens of feet from the kegs.
     
  31. #31
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Ok, im seriously about to lose it. Ive put 12' of 3/16 ID line on here and im still getting nothing but foam. Theres some bubbles in the line it looks like, i dont think it should be there... im not seeing any signs of leaks. Why is this all foam?
     
  32. #32
    JuanMoore

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Best guess? Either the beer is carbed higher than the level that corresponds with your serving pressure, or you have a bad seal at the liquid diptube o-ring. If you pour two consecutive beers, is the second one less foamy than the first?
     
  33. #33
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Ok, i dumped several pints of foam and then purged the keg a bit and seems to be pouring better, i dropped the psi from 12 down to 10, im at about 39 degrees.
     
  34. #34
    JuanMoore

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Sounds like your carb level doesn't match your serving pressure. Turning the pressure down will likely make it worse over the long run. You need to either vent the keg a bunch with the gas off to reduce the carb level until it matches the serving pressure, or increase the serving pressure until it matches the carb level.
     
  35. #35
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Did some more experimenting, looks like it gets less foam the more i pour.
     
  36. #36
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Oct 2, 2013
    Ok, ill continue to vent until it pours the way i want it to at pressure.
     
  37. #37
    jkw1000

    Active Member

    Posted Oct 3, 2013
    Thanks for the tip. After further testing, you are on to something. Set it at 12 psi and she pours nicely.
     
  38. #38
    jkw1000

    Active Member

    Posted Oct 3, 2013
    Ironically after following this thread for a few weeks, I took a homebrew keg offline ( finished it) and put a new D tap on a new pumpkin ale keg. I have a two keg split T co2 system and my new keg poured 75% foam. The other tap poured fine. I purged the keg of pressure and nothing changed. I also had bubbles in line. I swapped taps and the reverse happened. Pumpkin keg poured fine. It must be in the tap, seal, line ir picnic spout tap. I'm going to investigate.
     
  39. #39
    Denny's Evil Concoctions

    Grande Megalomaniac  

    Posted Oct 3, 2013
    Other than the standard troubleshooting like: over carbed, short lines, tap/tower to warm, etc.

    Have you checked to see if it is only with one keg? The output seals on a carboy can go and one of them will allow tank air to blend with the dispensed beer when it fails.

    The o-ring that goes between the output post and the dip tube is the one I mean.
     
  40. #40
    ronjonacron

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Oct 3, 2013
    I may have had it overxarbed this whole time. Ive been periodically going and purging it while its disconnected from the co2.

    I attached the co2 and set it to 10 psi and got foam at first, but the second half came out fine. It was much less carbed than it was earlier when i set it really low and pulled a somewhat descent pint. Ive got it aet to about 11 psi now and im about to go pull another and see how it goes.

    When these two kwgs float i will go through and replace all the seals just for peace of mind, but again it seems like it may have just been overcarbed.

    As previously stated im brand new to kegging, and though id like to think i have a logical mind, i didnt think to purge it several times to allow whats it the solution to dissipate before setting it back to the proper psi. Lesson learned hopefully. Ill report back later tonight and see how it is in a few pints.
     
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