Element Suggestions for 120V eBIAB setup

Anyone have some suggestions for a good 120v 1650W water heating element to upgrade my 10g Winware aluminum stock pot so that I can eBIAB?

I was looking at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K7RJQQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

but does anyone have a better suggestion? I will be using two of these to do 2.5-5 gallon batches.

Thanks!

 

I'd recommend to use Camco ULWD element like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Being connected to 120 Volt it gives you 1375Watt.
You'll never have a pfoblem with scorching and you can use it after upgrade to 240V.

 

I use this one in my RIMs tube, it's a low watt density. I ordered mine through Grainger.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNICCO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

But Brumateur has an excellent point about a 240V upgrade option with just a slight loss of power...and ULWD

 

Are you going to use 2 qty of the 120V heating elements in your kettle?
Even with an insulated kettle you will need >2K watts to boil more than 5 gallons.

 

I have used similar 120v high density elements for years now, however, I did scorch one large batch badly, a dumper, due to pausing the boil and letting the trub settle, low density elements might have avoided this IDK.

FWIW, I still use the high density elements, but now I am more careful to keep the trub from settling excessively while approaching boil.

My experience using HD elements, of course YMMV....cheers!

ps. the same HD elements are available at Home depot / Lowes for like 10 bucks.

edit...this one posted above by helibrewer looks promising
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNICCO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I prefer the 2000w elements, but if your batch size is only 5 gal. you likely don't need 4000w total.

 

That element looks awesome but my pot has a 14.5" diameter so I don't think a 15" element would fit :/

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15" it's a whole element length. The part which suppose to be inside a boiler is around 13". See picture below.

 

hmm, looks like I would be able to fit 1 of those in my pot but I'd need 2 of them to get a boil in a reasonable amount of time :/ I don't think it'd be able to fit 2 in..

 

I went with 2 of these LWD 1500W elements. I mainly do 5G batches with a 7.5G pre-boil volume. This should be more than enough to get the job done I think.

 

That looks like the regular HWD elements you can get at HD, Lowes to me. It will work fine, I would suggest stirring a few times as you approach boil...YMMV.

 

They are listed as LWD on the listing though on Amazon. Are they not?

 

If amazon says so, I guess they are.

Sorry to confuse, but that looks like the typical 120V element that is commonly referred to as HWD.

Edit
Sorry, yes google reveals that is LWD, the HWD is 02142/02143
Cheers!

 

Any of these:

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868GL.aspx
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868LH.aspx
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10868KL.aspx

The 2000W elements require 20A service though.

 

Phew. I didn't want to have to return them and get different ones. Thanks.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the links

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Everyone is saying they are only 4in long and not LWD even though thats what the label says... I was planning on ordering it today but not sure now

 

The ones I linked are close to 7 in long and are indeed LWD based on the Camco information and pretty much every website I go to. I can measure it when I get home if you like.

 

sorry its http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKVZUO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

that it is coming differently than it shows and says. thats the one i really wanted that claimds to be a 1500w 120v ULW

 

Ah ok. I actually originally ordered that one for my RIMS tube, but returned it when it came. It really is only like 4 inches long. It's heavy as hell though, so I do believe them when they say it's ULW. It don't think it'd be good in a brew kettle or anything really because there would be such a small amount of the element actually sticking into the kettle because of fittings.

 

I want to do BIAB and was thinking it was perfect now starting my look over for two and really want 1500w 120v ULD

 

You could do 2 of these and run them at 120V. Since they're already LWD, they'd be ULWD at 120V.

 

nice but the pots only i think 13in diameter boo

 

Yeah those look longer. LWD just might have to do. I'm getting mine welded in this weekend but might not be able to brew for a couple more weeks. I will let you know how it goes as far as any noticeable scorching...but I don't expect any.

 

Ya i went ahead and copied you got 2 LWD just waiting for them to ship now

 

I made a heat stick with two of these. They work great for this application.

 

I can see them working great as a heat stick, but not as being added with welded fittings to the side of a kettle. I wish they were the size as described because that wattage and ULWD is perfect for people with 120V for either application. Ohwell.

 

Finally got my elements in and holding water. May not look the best but works. Going to hook up the wires and boil test tomorrow



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Fail hooked the wires up filled up to check again and drops at this point in about rdy to just trash this


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What's the story with the silicone? Did you use Teflon tape on the threads?


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Used the tape and the silicone us the food grade everyone say to use. It is still leaking though the silicone. I ripped it all out and put new silicone in all I can think to do at this point


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I would think it takes quite a few wraps of teflon tape to seal or choke off the threads on the element, you shouldn't need the silicon sealant if done correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QjkXWE1QI8#t=378

Bobby says liberal use of the teflon tape, more than once, 4.00 minutes in...the nut should have resistance threading on the element with the tape.

 

Ya the problem is one of the two holes they made too big but that one isn't leaking. The one that is leaking is the right size but as I put the element in the pit strips the most of the tape


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Did you let the silicone cure? I'm sure there's a time period that needs to be waited before it's water tight right? Also, wrap that thing up more with tape! It won't hurt anything.

 

Yes I let it sit a min. of 24hrs after applying so I wont know if redoing the silicone will fix it till tomorrow night. that way it have almost 48hrs

 

ok got a question. I added the o-ring on inside and on out side my pot but have seen several pic like below.. what way is correct??

 

I haven't used a threadless element bulkhead before, but I was under the impression that the SS locknut that's used on the interior of the vessel has a knocked interior that allows the silicone o-ring to sit inside of it right? If that's the case, then the o-ring should be on the inside of that locknut and pressing up against the inside wall of the kettle.

 

Welp still leaking so at this point guess I'll try to find a wielder around me that will wield the pot..


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I'm going to explain this one more time in case you've done something different.

Wrap the element threads with about 4-5 wraps of teflon tape going clockwise when the element tubes are facing you. If you put the teflon tape on backwards, it will get stripped off while you put the nut on and that's a fail.

Now, with just the teflon tape on the elements and nothing else, push it through the enclosure cap and then through the hole in the pot. Now push your oring over the threads and against the pot and then thread the 1" locknut on with the groove facing the oring. Once you get it touching the oring, turn the locknut so that you have a point on the hex facing directly up. Now hold the locknut still and turn the hex on the heating element until it's nice and tight.

That is very important. If you turn the locknut for tightening, you'll screw up the oring and it will bulge out of place.

The process I described has worked for 250 customers so far.

Do NOT put any gaskets on the outside of the pot. Do not put any silicone sealant on there.

 

I did all but i do have a gasket on the out side I'll remove that and try once more


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The extra gasket may be limiting how much thread to thread contact you're getting. It's hard to see in the picture, but that's a possibility.