Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

Hey mods what about adding this as a sticky. This is reallyh good stuff here.

 

Paps.

I'm planning my first round of cider, I just bought 6 1/2 gallon galss jugs as my fermntors as i want to try different variations to find what i like. How much pectic enzyme do you add to your batch. Are you doing 5 gals?

I was also curious about adding priming sugar to the bottling bucket. Do you think i could skip this step and just let the remaining sugar produce the CO2. I understand this will "dry" the cider up a bit more than when i bottle.

 

This looks promising and easy.

Louis Pasteur would be proud of you Pappers.

I have my next project lined up now.

 

Thanks, I have 3 gallons or so sitting in a carboy, used I think US05 in it and am looking to make it sparkling. I don't keg, and this is perfect. I am going to carb and back sweeten with Frozen Concentrate. Really looking forward to this now!

 

I've also tried this, and thanks to you, no more bottle bombs! I don't have any pots big enough for more than 4 bottles, so I just pour a few litres of boiling waters over my bottles in the sink and 'steam' them by draping a towel over them, works perfect.

I just have to add, make sure that the caps are on nice and tight. Just before I had a bottle where the capper didn't quite do it's job as well as it should have, and I ended up with a steaming hot gyser of cider all over my hand! Take care!

I also think this should be stickied, mods.

 

I love the bottle collection. What a great look.

 

So pasturizing doesn't kill your co2 level/carbonation? I didn't know you can maintain carbonation and still heat it enough to kill the yeast.

 

Great outline Pappers. This is exactly what I plan to be doing in about 2 weeks!

 

Awesome this should be a sticky! It must be cool to see the co2 bubbling in the bottle before after the bath and then nothing after! Also Pappers do you still use 4 oz for priming or less?

 

This method works out pretty well... It's a great way to keep a sweet, carbonated hard cider that way......

A couple slight changes for me -- as I did it on-heat....

Throw a rag in the bottom of your pot... Keeps the bottles from cracking against the bottom of the pots..

I did 160F for 20 minutes. Watched it with a kitchen cooking/meat thermometer....

Real Pry-off cap beer bottles are plenty strong for this duty -- as they are commercially pasturized fully carbed..... I wouldn't use screw cap beer bottles, though...

You don't loose any carbing this way -- once it is in the cider, and the cider is in the bottle, and the bottle is capped -- it stays.

I like it

One thing I found.....

Let them sit ~ 1 week before drinking..... I drank one the next day -- tasted like sweet, appley lighter fluid..... 1 week later -- pure delicious....

Thanks

John

 

could you do this en masse in the dishwasher?

 

I've got a turkey roaster that goes down to 170F. I bet I could use that to do the same thing, but not have to manage the temperature at all. Just put the bottles in, set the timer, pull them out.

 

Hello Pappers, my ultimate goal would be to make a strongbow clone as I really enjoy the taste and carbonation level of this cider and I think your technique would be promising.

Question : Would putting the bottles in the dishwasher work as you could put more ?

My only concern is that I was under the impression that you need to let your cider age after a racking in order to get a clear cider like the one shown in your pictures ? If I'm using freshly pressed cider and only want to take it to 1.010, it will take a week to two to get to that point and cider will still be very cloudy with yeast, apple sediment and bentonite. How do you get it to be so clear in so little time ?

thanks for the great post !

 

Is pasteurization of cider after fermentation absolutely necessary? I just figured I could let the fermentation run its course and then bottle with a wee bit of prime and be fine. Am I wrong in thinking this?

 

That works fine for dry ciders or ciders backsweetened with non-fermentable sugar, but for naturally sweet bottle carbed ciders you need to stop the yeast after carbonation.

 

Does pasteurizing not taint the flavour? I was under the impression doing so would give the cider a cooked apple-type taste

 

Pappers, Have you been able to keep any of these for a long time ? I'm wondering how they are after a year in the cellar ?

The reason I ask this, I just tried a couple of my ciders from last fall, and one has gone towards vinegar, and the other I haven't had time to figure itout. I just discovered all this last night.

 

I also recommend this be made a sticky.
I think it is the only good answer to the ever present "how can I make a sweet, carbonated, cider".

 

I agree that the immediate fusel flavor was probably a difference in fermentation process/ingredients.... Nothing to do with Pasturization....

I was originally going to do a batch of Apfelwein -- started with Fruit stand fresh cider + 2 cans of Apple juice concentrate. OG started out pretty high (For a cider).... Then, as I read more, I decided that I like a slightly sweet cider much better -- so it was time to cold crash and bottle it as sparkling Cider -- I ended up with about 8% ABV....

Another thing I should add -- I didn't bother priming at all... I just used the natural carbonation provided by the yeast to carbonate the bottles...

I cold crashed at 1.010 in the fridge. Racked off, back sweetened back up to 1.020 with frozen apple juice concentrate and immediately bottled and pasturized.

Since I had not degassed at all -- it had *PLENTY* of carbonation without any sort of priming....

Flavor wise -- Amazing.. My favorite cider so far.... None of the icky, weird, bitter nasty flavors from letting it run all the way past 1.000... Not watery from white sugar... just Smooth and very intensely appley with a good tart apple sweetness....

Thanks

John

 

Great thread - sounds like this could be used for root beer or other sweet carbonated soft drinks too? Those are bottle bombs if you can't get them cold at just the right time.

You could put an uncapped bottle of water with a thermometer into the water bath at the same starting temperature of your 'product' to get a good idea of the temperature in the other bottles. Otherwise, it's a little tough to know just how hot your contents are getting to, but I don't doubt that a ten minute bath in 190F gets you there. Did some digging on Pasteurization temperatures & times:

http://www.iddeas.com/l2-1900.html
http://www.probrewer.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=11201

I see ranges of 6-50 Pasteurization Units, with 50 for non-alcoholic bevs. Formula for Pasteurization Unit (PU):


P.U.'s/minute = 1.2023 to the power of (T-140) where T = temperature in F
P.U.'s/minute = 1.389 to the power of (T-60) where T = temperature in C

Looks like 160-165F will give 50 P.U.'s with just 30-75 SECONDS exposure.
170F is 12 seconds,
180F just 2 seconds.

Of course, since we can't control the temperature variation bottle-to-bottle and even temperature gradients within a bottle, we do need to shoot for the high end on all these.

Dishwashers with sanitize settings get to 167F, I'd assume this happens slow and long enough to get the bottle contents over 160F for 75 seconds, but I don't know. Anyone got a waterproof temperature logger that can fit in a 12 ouncer?

-kenc

 

Interesting links, but they seem to be talking about different methods of pasteurization, the first one is doing flash pasteurization and the second is tunnel pasteurization, like a commercial brewer.

With bottle pasteurization it takes longer for the heat to transfer into the bottle, so you do need to leave it longer.

Toppers posted an extract from a Cornell paper about bottle pasteurizing cider.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/pas...tabilize-bottled-fermented-apple-cider-71180/

The same is true for the dishwasher method, even though the heat cycle lasts 10 mins, the hot water is only spraying over the bottles, not in constant contact, so it doesn't transfer heat as well.

I know someone tested the dishwasher method with an infrared thermometer, but i can't find the post at the moment. to many long threads about bottle sanitation.

 

This won't work with EC-1118 or Red Star P Cuvee. I've done this process, with cider, actually left it longer than that, and still ended up with foam fountains when I opened the bottles for consumption, weeks later. I suggest a person do a test bottle filled with water, uncapped, with a thermometer inside the bottle, and in the pot of hot water, and see how long it takes to get to 140 inside the bottle. If it takes 20 minutes, then go for 30 when you are doing the real thing.

 

Champagne yeasts are tough to stop with cold temps. They may be more resistant at high temps as well. Ale yeast seem to be easier to stop.

Great post Jim! - I agree that this should be stickied. This is the most thorough post by far on bottle pasteurization, although others have reported good success as well.

For someone wanting to bottle carbonate a sweet cider, this seems to me like the most reliable way to go. I still prefer cold crashing and kegging, but lots of people dont have space for that. If you need more throughput you can use a keggle.

A programmable dishwasher would be the way to go. Just do a heat cycle, have it bring the temp up nice and slow and then hold for 30 min, bring it down slow, you could run a good sized batch of bottles in an hour with very little effort other than figuring out how to program the dishwasher.

 

Why does the cold crash method stops you from giving away bottles ?

 

If you do the cold crash right you dont have to worry about keeping the bottles refrigerated. I give away bottles all the time and never had a problem. I still have about 100 bottles in the basement from last season that made it through the hottest summer on record with no AC (temps 80+ in the basement)

Dont confuse chilling the bottles with cold crashing. Just chilling an active ferment will cause the yeast to go dormant, but they will start back up again when they warm up. Cold crashing to remove the yeast requires two rackings, one before the chill and one right afterwards, so that all the yeast stay behind on the 2nd rack. If you use ale yeast, crash at 1.020 or preferably lower and dont suck up any yeast on the 2nd rack, they will stay stable indefinitely.

 

Yes for someone who wants to bottle condition, cold crashing doesnt work well. Pasteurization is the way to go.

If you cold crash you can bottle non-carbonated cider also. I do that a lot. It doesnt require a keg, just a way to chill the cider, so its less work and still tastes great.

Pasteurization does seem inherently less risky than cold crashing. Another advantage is that it should work fine for lager yeasts. Most of the lager yeasts I have tried have been really good but hard/impossible to crash.

BTW - cool picture. What is that contraption to the left of your son?

 

Thanks guys, how long would I have to keep a champagne bottle in the 190 degree water for it to be pasteurized and did we get a definitive answer to the dishwasher pasteurization ?