Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)

Here is the 5gal version...I tweaked the extract to base malt ratio a little

Milk Oatmeal Stout 5 gal
Sweet Stout
Type: Partial Mash Date: 2/21/2013
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.00 gal Brewer:
Boil Size: 4.27 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Pot and Cooler ( 5 Gal/19 L) - Extract/Partial Mash
End of Boil Volume 3.90 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 4.60 gal Est Mash Efficiency 90.5 %
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:
Ingredients


Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 54.8 %
8.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.5 %
6.1 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.2 %
4.0 oz Black (Patent) Malt (500.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.7 %
4.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.7 %
2 lbs 4.0 oz Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 6 24.6 %
8.0 oz Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 7 5.5 %
0.99 oz Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 19.6 IBUs
0.99 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 9 11.8 IBUs
0.50 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 1.2 IBUs

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.056 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.6 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.7 %
Bitterness: 32.6 IBUs Calories: 151.6 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 21.8 SRM
Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body, No Mash Out Total Grain Weight: 9 lbs 2.1 oz
Sparge Water: 3.04 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 8.97 qt of water at 161.8 F 150.0 F 75 min

Sparge Step: Fly sparge with 3.04 gal water at 168.0 F
Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Bottle Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 3.61 oz Carbonation Used: Bottle with 3.61 oz Corn Sugar
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 70.0 F Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Storage Temperature: 65.0 F
Notes


Created with BeerSmith

 

I just wanted to add that you shouldn't be afraid to jump into something new. Deathbrewer's technique helped me (and hundreds if not thousands of others!!!) make the jump from extract to PM or AG. You will love it and find that it is easier than you think. After a couple of years of AG brewing, I have recently re-discovered how relaxing and chill an extract brew day can be (it doesn't hurt that where I live we have had lows in the -30's this winter) but I love the versatility I have with AG and PM brewing. If you use a 5 gal paint strainer and a pot (or a small cooler) for your mash you will see how easy it is. You are basically steeping at a little more controlled and intentional temp and just throw all your grains in and let it sit. Once you drain and rinse the grains, you just brew like normal. Good luck

 

I'm doing the 2.5 gallon batch because I'm in a small apartment with a tiny kitchen, and an electric stove. It's just more convinient for now. Hopefully moving in the next couple months to a house, then I want to switch to 5 gallon and AG.

 

What scale did you use to go from Extract to PM? I'm seeing different numbers here, and I'm sure there's a reason, I just don't know it. How do you convert the recipe?

 

One more question. When I put the recipe into BeerSmith I ended up with a Post Boil Vol of 1.3 gallons, which would require me to add 1.2 gallons of water at the end. I know that water helps with cooling it down (at least somewhat), but there's no reason I couldn't add more water in the mash or sparge and then have less to add at the end right? Or am I wrong about that?

 

Sorry for the delay, I decided to play hookie and brew today! I set this up as a PM from the beginning and tweaked until I got numbers that matched the style. I had it set as a 5 gal batch so I used the scaling tool in beersmith to drop it to 2.5. I wouldn't mash less than 2 lbs of base malt, but that's just me.

 

You can boil as much as your stove and pot can handle. For a 1 hr boil you would probably want to start with about 3-3.25 to end up with 2.5 gal post boil. You can boil any amount and top up with water to get to the volume you want.

 

Awesome. I figured that was the case, but just wanted to make sure. What'd you brew today?

 

I brewed a Belgian Pale Ale that started out as Saccharomyces' recipe http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f71/belgian-pale-ale-117569/
but I have since made it my own! It has become my house brew. I just upgraded my system with a pump, camlocks, and a homemade whirlpool and diptube and have been dying to try it out. Everything worked like a dream (except the whirlpool...still too much hop debris) but cleaning in freezing temps still requires a lot of lugging and lifting when the hose freezes. Cest la vie!

 

Question for those of you that have used this method to make the jump from extract to PM. Would you suggest certain recipes or would I not be getting in over my head doing a bigger recipe. The reason I'm considering doing this is I want to brew an Imperial stout, specifically the Kate the Great clone. We've got infant twins at home so brew time is hard to come by right now but I also don't want to screw it up. Thanks!

 

The beauty of partial mash is that you mash as much as your system will allow. Then add extract to get to your OG.
I had trouble maintaining mash temps the first 2 PM batches trying to do it on the stove. Then I got the bright idea to use my thinsulate lined winter hunting coat. I get the mash water up to about 150F,then put in the paint strainer bag in & pour in the crushed grains,usually 5lbs in 2G of water. Stir with my plastic paddle to break up dough balls,& get the grains evenly wetted. Then off the heat & onto the inside back of the hunting coat,lid on & floating thermometer inside.
Flop the hood over the lid,wrap around the coats' sides,& tie the sleeves around that for the 1 hour mash. Put the 3 or 4 gallon SS stock pot on the same burner to heat about 1.5 gallons of sparge water to about 165F. When the mash is done in my 5G SS BK/MT,I pull the grain bag & set it in a SS collander on top of the BK/MT to drain. Then sparge to get total boil volume of 3.5 gallons in said 5 gallon kettle. Since my PM's mash makes up some 50% of the fermentables,I use that for the boil's hop additions & ad the extract as a late addition at flame out. The burner for the boil is on 8.5 (electric stove) with aftermarket burners. Less boil off this way than on 9 or "HI". But it still gets a nice,even rolling boil. Just not as violent.

 

You should boil on 11

 

Awesome post - thanks for the detailed instructions! I just started home brewing and have made two pretty successful batches from LME kits. I'd eventually like to move up to all-grain brewing, so the partial mash method will be a great intermediate step for me.

 

thats what I was thinking. I also just found out one of my LHBS is starting to offer BIAB classes in addition to their other offerings.

I think partial mash and BIAB is getting more popular.

 

It def works well,& the insulated hunting coat holds temps so well that I acctually gain 1 degree,rather than loosing 5-12 degrees on the stove. I also like how partial mash gives some freedom to try various grains for more flavor complexity & tweaking the color.

 

I did my first BIAB last week (7 days ago) and it is a honey ale with 6 lbs of grain and 3 lbs of honey!

I'm brewing it for Memorial Day party etc...

However I've never used honey in a brew or White Labs 0001 before and of course I've never seen a fermentation look anything like this yet!

Possibly it's due to my lack of experience ( 11 batches so far )... But this looks like I'm making cottage cheese.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

I am brewing my first partial using Deathbrewer's tutorial. I have little babies so things have not went as planned. I'm doing Papazian's Top Drop Pilsner.
I think I heated the grains too high and the water was just getting starchy. It was late last night so I just turned off the stove, covered the pot and slept. In the morning I had a lovely sweet wort. Tastes like honey.
I am late getting my Wyeast into an intermittent shake starter. It won't be ready until tonight. I have time to brew the rest of the recipe now while the babies are sleeping. Is it okay to brew and then add the yeast hours later?
thanks in advance.

 

You just run a higher chance of getting an infection in your batch if there is already some wild yeast or bacteria. There is nothing to dominate the Wort so they have a better chance of getting a foothold.

 

that makes sense
thanks

 

Ideally you would pitch right away but there are certainly times that I'll pitch the next day. Sometimes I save wort from a batch to make the starter and try to keep the batch covered, sanitary, and as cold as possible. RDWHAAHB!!!

 

What you have there is the classic wet popcorn cold break protiens settling out. You must've either topped off with really cold water (as I do) or used irish moss or the like. Nothing to worry about,& it'll compact down over time in primary.

 

I'm considering buying this to give BIAB a try..any comments? My Brew pot is 4 Gallons

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=29X29-MESH-BIAB

 

At 29 x 29",it's more the size to easily fit over the lip all the way round my 5G,20QT SS BK/MT. It's a shrter wider SS stock pot with the bead near the bottom that holds a polished SS steamer tray. My 18 x 32" bag isn't quite wide enough. 22 x 28" or so would be better for my BK/MT. And 15 dollars on sale for "only 10 bucks is a little pricey! My lhbs only chrged me 7 bucks for the LD Carlson 18 x 32" bag I bought. The nylon is so easy to empty including hulls. And easy to clean stains off the nylon. A few dunks in a half sink of water & it's clean. quicker if it's warm water. So easy to clean & a pleasure to use. Very good investment regardless!

 

I'm curious, would i be better off with the simple HomeDepot paint strainer bag?

 

I used the Camden tabs and I've used them many times before (except on wheats) never seeing anything quite this strange!

Thanks

 

Many folks on here use the homer cheapo bags. I wanna see if they have a medium weave bag. This course weave is ok,but it lets about 1C of stuff through it.

Yeah,it's kinda strange at first,but does make for less haze come fridge time settling that stuff out.

 

I did my 5th brew last night, first time attempting a partial mash (previous batches were all extract/specialty grain). These instructions made it super easy, so a big thank you to DeathBrewer!

I ended up mashing at 154F (per kit instructions, Midwest Supplies Traditional Stout) in 2 gallons of water for 4.625 lbs of grain. Hit mash temps perfectly using the linked calculators on page 1. Covered my mash kettle with my SWMBO's snuggie (I'll have to call this one the Snuggie Stout), and only lost 1 degree F over the course of 70 mins. Removed grains and let drain/squeezed.

Sparged in 3.6 gallons of water (aiming for 5 gallons of wort) at 160F for 15 mins, stirring every 5 mins. Removed grains and again allowed to drain while squeezing.
Combined mash/sparge, stirred, and took a sample, which I allowed to cool to 70F while bringing the wort to a boil.

Preboil gravity put me around 78% efficiency! And here I had DME ready, expecting it to be below 70% for my first time.

It looks like I'll be doing BIAB partials from now on.
Only downside - it did take about an hour longer over extract/specialty grain recipes. Not a huge downside, though - just means I get to enjoy another home brew!

Edit: I had Midwest crush the grains twice, just an FYI.

 

Very nice post very informative, I am a new brewer and I currently have a West Coast Pale Ale in the primary. I have been doing tons of research as my next batch I want to try and do a partial grain Ruination style IPA. Thanks for the post


---Cheers!

 

Thanks and yes I did use Whirlfloc tablet and the stuff seems pretty amazing so far. It is starting to Compact down but still has the original form just not quite as prevalent. Today is 3 weeks in Primary and was planning on moving it to a Keg but I am about to leave the house for an emergency business so I guess 3 more days won't hurt it. LOL... Hope not.

 

Definitely not. I leave my beers in the primary for longer than 3 weeks all the time. As long as you don't have some curious kids, you'll be fine.

 

Thanks for the awesome thread! Very informative!

New brewer here, so I still manage to have a couple questions ><

PM and Extract + specialty grains seem very similar to me, am I missing something? When I brew with specialty, i put my grains in a bag and hold temp @ 155 for 30-45 minutes, then remove, pour 170 degree water over/through my sack/grain bed that I've been holding above my brewpot draining, until the water coming out is fairly clear. Would the only step I'm missing be that I can incorporate some 2-row or other base malt along with my specialty grains, and a better method of sparging?

 

You pretty much nailed it. The fundamental difference is that you're replacing a quantity of extract with base malt. I would argue that there's a little more precision involved (really tracking temperature more than if you're only steeping), but that's just process.

PM can really open up new worlds in terms of recipes and control. It's hard to recreate Vienna and Munich mashed at 156 or Golden Promise at 148 using extract!

 

Plus mashing uses only 1-1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain. This is the difference between mashing & steeping,other than the fact that mashing is for 1 hour generally.

 

I'm going to try this soon. I asked this earlier but didn't get a response. For the first attempt at using this method, would you go with a recipe you know well (obviously doing PM instead of extract) or do you think it's easy enough that I could try a more complex recipe? I'm really interested in brewing an imperial stout. Thanks!

 

Right. Process wise there are differences -- that's what DeathBrewer's walkthrough is for, so don't forget to use it if trying out partial mash!

 

Everyone will tell you something different, I'm sure, but for me, I wanted to start with smaller beers (or at least not huge beers that need aging) so I could turn them around quicker and see how my process was working in terms of end product quality.

 

I'd get a partial mash kit,like the ones at midwest. My first was the PM Cascade Pale ale kit with premium dry yeast for $25. Good price to get a great,balanced pale ale that reminds me of SNPA,but lighter colored. The premium dry yeast was US-05. I think this would be the easiest way to get your feet wet with PM brewing. Good price too.

 

Oh man, +1 to that kit. It was my first PM batch and remains one of my favorite beers I've ever made -- simple but very well balanced recipe.

 

Thank you for this! I already used this method and it worked great! I have dumb newbie question though, will this work for all grain as well?

 

Sure, it is basically a Brew in a Bag (BIAB) set up. You could mash more grain and not add extract. You might be limited on the higher gravity brews and how big you can go will depend on your equipment, but it can be done. You could even mash and boil a smaller volume of higher gravity wort and then dilute just like you do with extract kits. What did you have in mind?