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dry hopping in the primary?

Discussion in 'Beginners Beer Brewing Forum' started by ETOHonboard, May 31, 2011.

 

  1. #1
    ETOHonboard

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    Is it a good idea or should I quit being lazy and transfer to secondary then dry hop?
     
  2. #2
    BendBrewer

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    Just dry hop in the primary. Better yet, dry hop the keg.
     
    C-Rider likes this.
  3. #3
    ETOHonboard

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    Oh how I long for the day I start kegging! :)
     
  4. #4
    Sacreddog717

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I dry hop in the primary all the time. Just be careful when you transfer to the bottling bucket and it'll be fine.
     
  5. #5
    Gridlocked

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I just dry hopped my primary for the first time last week due to limited amount of time and after doing a search on here, my findings lead me to believe that as long as fermentation is complete, there's nothing wrong with it.
     
  6. #6
    Brewmiser

    BrewMiser

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I agree, I had no issues with dry hopping in primary
     
  7. #7
    BryceL

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I agree with all the others...doing it in the primary is fine. I usually ferment my IPA's for two weeks, then add my hops to the primary and let it go for another 10 days. The only time I use secondary is if I'm adding something like oak or fruit additions.
     
  8. #8
    jsweet

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    Wow, this is timely, for me at least. My answer would have been, "Rack it, you'll worry less!", for obvious reasons... Any of you folks here ever had the problem I describe in the aforelinkedto thread?
     
  9. #9
    TTB-J

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    It doesn't matter where you dry hop, the hops will generally behave the same way. At first, they will float on the surface. Eventually, some will become saturated and sink. I've always had at least a thin layer of hop material remaining on the surface by the time I rack to the bottling bucket.

    One reason to transfer to a secondary if you're dry hopping is to make it easier to harvest yeast from your batch. However, if you allowed a lot of trub to come in from your kettle, it doesn't really matter, you'll still need to wash and siphon. Just some food for thought.
     
  10. #10
    ETOHonboard

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    That does it, I will just dry hop the primary. Thanks to all for your answers:)
     
  11. #11
    jsweet

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I don't harvest yeast.... yet. But on the most recent batch I bottled, after I dumped the carboy, looking at all that yeast in my sink sorta made me sad. So maybe sooner rather than later...
     
  12. #12
    BryceL

    Well-Known Member

    Posted May 31, 2011
    I took a quick look at the thread you linked to. To try to answer some of your questions...I have a ball valve on my kettle, so I don't have to deal with pouring it through a funnel. Maybe look into adding one to your kettle if you have access to a welder or someone that does. It sure makes life easier. As far as dry hoping with whole hops in the carboy, I slowly give it a swirl when I get the hops in to try to mix it a bit. I'm careful to not agitate my wort too much. Most of my hops end up floating the whole time and never sink. If you want to dry hop with pellets you can put them in a sack with a sanitized marble to make it sink. When racking to my keg I go with Yooper's method from the other thread you have going...rack from the middle and lower the racking cane as needed.
     
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