Drilling cooler for spigot - bad idea?

Should I drill the hole for my brass ball valve or just return the cooler and get one that has the spigot. The potential issues I see are leaking and not having that gasket thing from the existing spigot. I didn't realize that this cooler was spigotless when I bought it, which I can't believe. I guess because it was on sale for $8.95 and its 48qt capacity...

 

Check out YOUR cooler.
Lots of the ones I've been seeing in the store have the flat spot (No insulation) where they could put in a drain...just didnt'. It's a Big Box Discount Store thing. If you've got that....drill it....if not, maybe get one that does.
I would not drill through insulation...you're just asking for a hastle.

 

Shouldn't be a problem with proper gasketing!

 

This cooler does have spots on both sides that look like they could be used for spigots. Like the factory designated the spots and never used them. I didn't realize they were flat spots though, thats good...

I'm wondering what kind of gasket I'd need...

 

If you have a step bit and go slowly it should not tear the insulation, and make your job easier. Just be sure to drill some, then test fit, drill some more then test fit, until its good.

 

If you have any extra copper or metal laying around, you can just heat up a 1/2" piece and push it through. No drilling necessary.

 

I was just thinking that as I read your post.

Conduit will work too...jut DO NOT breathe the smoke that will come off of any galvanized metal....and if you do, Milk (No, I'm not kidding) will help to stop the puking.

as for gaskets....My Mash Tun has plain old rubber flat washers, the new Bulkhead and Ball valve (For my Keggle ) have red silicone O-Rings.

 

It looks like creating the hole won't be an issue, but keeping it from leaking might be...

 

No...Not really.
I just remembered that I actually used the gasket that came off of the drain valve in mine. Since you don't have that option, I'd just go look in the specialty bins...(Get a guy to help you...it's worth your time) and find a rubber washer that will fit.

They sell replacement parts here
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/parts/ProductImage2.asp?product_id=5605-704

 

I'm sure you can find a gasket that fits. Those things come in millions of sizes.

 

I have to go back for the inside barb fitting, so I'll look for the gasket as well. I'll just bring the whole spigot assembly with me...

 

OH HELL...You're building a false bottom aren't you?

 

Haha, no way man. I'm keeping things minimal/simple and using FlyGuy's conversion method. I need the inside barb fitting to attach my stainless braid to. I used this setup in the past and it worked well for me...

 

Ben, I've got the right sized silicone O-rings for either 3/8 or 1/2" pipe nipples if you need them. There's also a trick for reinforcing the space between the inner and outter cooler walls so you can really crank down on the seals by using a piece of PVC that fits over the pipe nipple. The outside hole needs to be made big enough to slip the PVC in, but the outside washer covers it up..

Lowes (woodbridge) has the right sized stainless washers for 1/2" pipe in the specialty hardware drawers (NOT the plumbing dept). They're labelled as 3/4" fender washers. Finally, using any seals on the outside is a really bad idea IMHO because you potentially leak into the insulation cavity and never know it.

 

I used big 'ol rubber washers that I found at an auto parts store. Sometimes if you ask nicely they'll let you rummage through the small parts bins. (I've been told no before, too)

 

Cool Bobby, these are the parts I have already; http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/. I don't know if I'd need the PVC reinforcement or not. I bought some washers at the Lowes in Pway but they're not stainless. I'll have to go to the Woodbridge location for my inside washer(s)...

 

Another tip: make sure the hole you make is sufficiently away from the bottom of the inside of the cooler - this includes the space that you're washers & o-rings will need.

I know from experience - i thought i was being all slick in making the hole closest to the bottom to eliminate deadvolume, but then when i added washers & gaskets, they didn't sit flat on the inside. So, now i have a slightly leaky HLT.

 

The inside reinforcement doesn't seem to be needed at first because the walls are somewhat rigid enough to make a seal. It's after the hot/cold cycles that it starts getting iffy.

 

Good point. I'm open to the idea...

 

So I go out to the garbage/recycling area this morning and someone threw out an Igloo 48qt cooler. The cooler is shot, but the spigot isn't! I quickly disassembled the spigot and took what I needed. One soak in oxyclean and it is good to go. I love when things work out...

 

morebeer.com sells a fitting that might help you out

https://morebeer.com/view_product/17506/102308/Bulkhead_for_Coolers_with_1_2"_FPT_x_1_2"_FPT

FYI - I don't work for morebeer

 

Damn, that's a pricey fitting. I gotta figure out who MoreBeer is buying them from, and how much they actually cost. Can't be $19 from the supplier, srsly.

 

Thanks for posting that. I was able to install my spigot successfully. I gave it the hot water run yesterday with no leaking (visibly)...