Does everyone let the krauston layer completely drop before bottling?

Hi Everyone,

I am pretty sure the fermentation has stopped, however, I do have a very small krauston layer left. I am anxious to bottle especially since I was aggressive with my dry hopping.

 

I've never had significant krausen left when I went to bottle, but I use a secondary which may have some effect. I also don't do a lot of dry hopping.

What's the gravity readings telling you? If they are stable you should be good to go.

 

I've had batches where the kraeusen didn't fall when fermentation was finished. I bottled without any problem. But be really sure fermentation is finished. Gravity should be at a reasonable level, and it should be stable. Test this by checking gravity three days before bottling day and again on bottling day. If gravity (corrected for temperature) is stable and beer is clear or slightly hazy, it's ok to bottle. It it's still dropping, wait a few days and try again. Normally I plan on total of three weeks in primary and no secondary.

 

I've never bottled while a krausen was still present. A lot of times I'll have "yeast rafts" that stick around but I consider those different from krausen.

 

Post a picture of the krausen and folks will be able to better advise. Yeast rafts stick around for a long time and do not impact when to bottle. Krausen is another story.

How long since you pitched yeast?

 

If it is just yeast rafts that is fine. Is it that, or a full krausen? Some yeasts do have krausens that stck around for a long time.

How long since you pitched the yeast? Are you sure that fermentation is really done? If it is not done and you bottle, then you next post will be " Why do I have bottle bombs"

 

In my experience WY1272 has a krausen that usually sticks around for 10-12 days (probably 2-4 days after active fermentation is over). I wouldn't be surprised if the beer was technically "done" i.e. stable gravity before the krausen dropped but I found that giving the beer an extra week allows the krausen to drop and the beer comes out pretty bright.

I imagine if you're cold crashing you could force the krausen to drop if the gravity was stable.

 

Have you checked with a hydrometer? It's best to be sure!

We do primary for 2 to 3 weeks. No krausen has been left at that point.

 

First off you should always wait for Krausen to subside before dry hopping, if you dry hop into an active fermentation you will lose a lot of the aroma. of the hops

Also, throw this thought away. there is no set timetable for yeast, you've got to let THEM do THEIR thing. the only way to know if your beer is ready to be bottled is to make sure your gravity is stable by taking hydrometer readings. even after its stable it is beneficial to let it sit on the yeast for a week or 4 depending on style

 

Was kinda browsing threads similar to what I'd like to throw out there...
In total, I'm working on my third batch of beer...so I have some experience. I've had a 100% success rate so far, but I'm still wondering where I could improve yet, or maybe I've been playing my lucky cards too much.
I mix and let my fermentation go in a plastic 7 gallon pail with an airlock sittin' on top. When the airlock slows down releasing gasses (almost to a stop, in about a weeks time) I open the lid, add my sugar for bottling, stir it slowly for a bit and fill n cap my bottles. I couldn't complain on its taste either.
Again, its worked 2 out of 2 times, with this being my third batch here...
Any comments, or something I should consider doing different for a better success/taste rate over more batches?

 

Take hydrometer readings. Airlock activity doesn't mean anything, you're playing a dangerous game that is going to end in bottle bombs. also get a bottling bucket so you're not stirring up the trub and yeast at the bottom of your bucket. I'm willing to bet your bottles all have lots of sediment at the bottom right? just browse this site and search bottling topics and stuff like that. you'll be fine. also you'll want to invest in some type of fermentation temp control.

 

Before I started cold-crashing I'd come across stuck krausen here and there that'd last for weeks after ferm. ended. Just somehow got stuck to the neck of the carboy and would not drop. Sometimes gently rocking would help. Cold crashing dunks it though.

 

would it be more common for Cream ales to have krausen retention in the carboys ?

i'm new to brewing and trying to make sure i start off on the right foot. thanks for your help

 

would it be more common for Cream ales to have krausen retention in the carboys ?

i'm new to brewing and trying to make sure i start off on the right foot. thanks for your help

 

I'll be using a bottle buck for this batch; will look around for a hydrometer...For temp control during fermentation I have my bucket inside a closed closet set to between 22-30 celcius. I've seen guys brew for years with great results getting by with much less

 

A hydrometer is your best defense against bottle bombs. Can you cold crash your fermenter for a few days before wanting to bottle? The lesser the amount of trub in the bottle, the lesser the chance of having gushers even when properly carbonated.

 

Cold...what? Nah, I don't think I can cold-crash. I keep it in a 6 gallon pail, let it do its thing for a week (or more if I have to) and bottle it. I'm just starting up so every batch I guess I can do a few things different

 

Okay, how about I siphon it out of my primary pail into a second one? Can I let it sit in that for a while, just to get it off of the sediment and maybe have less sediment in my bottles? What will that do with flavoring?

 

Some yeast strains settle very quickly and others linger seemingly forever. IME, 1007 and 2112 were two strains I've come across that still had some krausen for weeks after pitching. Hydrometer readings dictate when I bottle and/or rack - not krausen.

 

You ferment for a week then bottle? When I do a batch of beer, I am looking at least 3 weeks before I even think of bottling. I do 7-10 days in Primary, 14 days in Secondary then I normally let sit in bottles for 2 or 3 weeks before I start drinking.

If you want quick beer, go buy some from the liquor store. Good home brew is about measuring, patience, and more patience.

 

I'm new at this, man...okay, what do you mean when you say secondary? I'm running into terms I'm not familiar with...Teach it to me in straight plain English, please. What do you physically do after the 7-10 days? After I bottled my two batches I also let it sit for 2-3 weeks.

What do you guys do, in plain English, after the first 7-10 days?

Thanks

 

0

 

My advice...Don't secondary (transferring from primary to another vessel to age longer). Let the beer go for two weeks to a month in the primary. Then bottle.

 

What difference can I expect for taking it off of the bottom sediment after 2-3 weeks? Or is it minimal?

 

If you ferment at those high temps, it's no surprise that your fermentation is done in less than a week; however, you're not getting best results by fermenting at high temps. Bro some research into ideal temps for whichever yeast you use for your beers and then research ways to keep your fermenting sort at those temps.

If you ferment at ideal ale temps (usually 60F-70F, give or take a couple degrees), fermentation can be done in that short a time, but it's not a given. If you bottle before fermentation is done, you run the risk of your bottles exploding due to excessive CO2 buildup in the bottles. Priming sugar is measured assuming that that sugar will be the only thing still fermenting in the bottle. If you add priming sugar to a beer that still as fermentable sugars in it, then the yeast will produce CO2 beyond that which is needed to carbonate the bottles. Thus...BOOM!

It's not worth asking what people what they do beyond 7-10 days because every beer is different. You can't compare brewing a cream ale to an IIPA to a lager to a barleywine. Experienced brewers will adjust their schedules to account for the amount of grain used (thus a stronger beer), the yeast, additional ingredients (such as fruit, spices, etc.), and other factors that go into brewing a beer. If you post your recipe, then perhaps folks can give you a little more constructive feedback.

 

Gives the beer time to become clearer. Gives the yeast time to cleanup any off flavors from fermentation. It also gives a little more age before bottling which I like. Once you bottle you are that much closer to optimal flavor once it carbs.

 

Yeah, some will do NOTHING with their beers after 7-10 days and leave their beer (assuming it's a standard ale - say 1.060 or less) in primary for 3 or so weeks and then transfer to a bottling bucket and bottle. Others will move their beer to a secondary fermenter (a 5 gallon carboy, which will be smaller than the primary vessel was, which was probably 6 or 6.5 gallons - either carboy or bucket) and let it condition and/or clear in there. People greatly differ on the benefits and risks of doing either practice. Do 1 batch using a secondary and then maybe do the same recipe not doing a secondary and see which one you prefer. Some only secondary when they age (say a month or more), add fruit or puree for a fruit beer, add oak chips, or something similar or dry hop. Others add those things simply to primary. Experiment for yourself and find out what you like

 

Lots of info I was lookin' for, thanks guys...I've currently got the Coopers Extract Kit, a lager.
I didn't realize there were many optional approaches other than the basic directions that come with the kit.
I didn't secondary my two previous lager and Stout beers; this batch I'll try for sure.
Thanks again

 

Yes I do.

 

Just as a friendly suggestion, you may want to pick up a copy of 'The Complete Joy of Home Brewing ' by Charlie Papazian. It helps break down the brewing process to explain why each step is necessary.

Welcome to the hobby! It only gets better!