DIY PVC false bottom for cooler

This was my original mash cooler setup, but the bazooka screen was leaving me with stuck mash every time:

Based in a design that I saw in a local brew shop (brewbrothers llc) I created a pipe system with different size holes and slots to help set a nice grain bed but allow good flow. Plan to use it in the next couple days. Cost me $6 . Anyone seen or used something similar?




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Yeah...and it's funny because I went from that to a bazooka screen and have never had a stuck mash. I didn't like that method because I knocked it apart twice mashing in and didn't know it. I guess I could have glued it together but then it was damn near impossible to clean.

 

Did you actually use pvc or did you use cpvc. Typically pvc is only rated to like 140. Not that it matters structurally, but i'd wonder about leeching stuff out of the plastic.

 

I'd call this more of a manifold than a false bottom. But the construction looks good and pretty similar to other designs out there. You might run into problems with the holes on top plugging. The slots at the bottom are all you really need.

 

It's PVC!! Crap. I guess we'll see if it leaches; hopefully that temp rating only applies to the pressure limit rating...

In regards to the holes on the top; I'm hoping that the small grist will come thorough the holes initially so that I can simply put it back in the mash where it can settle on top of my set grain bed...batch sparge style. I can't wait to give this a shot whilst enjoying my coffee porter




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No...that's not pressure rating, it's temperature. I'd throw that out if I were you and make one with CPVC and only holes in the bottom.
If you were getting stuck mashes with the bazooka tube, you will never vorlauf enough to get rid of what comes through those holes in the top....they appear to be larger than bazooka screen to me.....

And based upon your connection, you will have to account for at least a gallon of dead tun space I bet...same as what would be under a false bottom. Don't forget that in your water volumes....

 

NOOB ALERT -- why do I never see anyone just wrap a manifold in a paint strainer bag to avoid clogged manifold holes? Clearly nobody does it so clearly it's not the right thing to do (so clearly I cannot have the wine that is in front of you)

 

Uhhhhhgg. Are you telling me that this is going to leach or melt or both?? That was a **** load of sawing...


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How will you know if it is leaching potentially harmful chemicals into your beer?

Either way, I think those top holes are going to give you so many problems you have to scrap it anyway...

sorry...

 

http://water.epa.gov/drink/contaminants/basicinformation/vinyl-chloride.cfm

This site has information regarding vinyl chloride consumption and it's health effects, tasteless and odorless. Yikes. I'll be switching to CPVC right away. Makes me wonder about the inside of my cooler, HDPE or PVC???



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I agree those top holes will give you issues. As for as the PVC goes $6 in material cost is not worth harmful chemicals in your brew. You also might think about the grain bed channeling with the manifold running around the outside of the cooler. Their are a lot of build threads on here where they have inset the manifold to help combat that.

Here is a link to a thread that might give you some more ideas. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/coleman-xtreme-mash-tun-how-do-434531/

 

Wow all my joints are schedule 40...thanks to everyone who brought the temp issue to my attention. Clearly I have more R&D to do before I have a product that I can use...or maybe I'll just go buy an igloo


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Depends how old it is

http://www.igloocoolers.com/FAQs

They dont give dates, but i'd bet if yours is built in the last 10 years your probably fine...

 

I just called the mfgr. The inside it polypropylene


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I started with the SS mesh from a cloths washer hose (pulled the rubber out of the middle) at first (makes for more area than the bazooka, it wrapped all the way around the bottom) but I was also having stuck mash issues. I went to the same idea as you however I used CPVC and made the slits at the bottom with a miter saw (much faster than the drimmel tool!). I screwed in 4" of Cpvc into my 1/2" ball valve and used a high temp O-ring on the inside of the cooler to prevent it from leaking and scrapped the hose set-up you have so there is less areas to clog.

 

I've tried batch sparging with just the grain in two mesh bags in the cooler with no bazooka screen. It didn't really work out so well and parts of the grain get into the boil no matter what - I don't mind it.

Sounds like this could work. Haven't had any stuck sparges lately with a bazooka screen even at 1qt/lb and 10% 'wheat' (an adjunct called amaranth).