Dealing with a fuse panel for induction

I'm looking at getting the ic3500 induction plate, and want to sort out my infrastructure.

I've got a dryer plug that is not used as my dryer is gas.. 4-prong with 3/10 running to it. But my house has a fuse panel instead of a breaker panel. There are a pair of 35 amp fuses on the dryer circuit.

What would you advise I do here? Add a spa panel for a breaker? GFCI? Just build an adapter plug?

 

Setup a dryer plug that feeds the input side of a GFCI spa panel. Once that is completed, you will be good to go in developing the rest of your brewery .

I hope this makes sense. If I can help some more, just ask.

Wishing you the best.
P-J

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably source the spa panel first and move ahead from there. THANKS!

 

You might want to source the SPA Panel here:

GE 50A 240V Spa Panel GFCI

At $70 bucks (+/-) it is not a bad deal and is commonly used by members here.

Just saying. (It is the one I reference in my wiring plans - BTW)

Hopes this helps.

P-J

 

no need for the spa panel just come off the dryer outlet thats what i did.

 

You won't have GFCI protection that way. Is it necessary with an induction plate? Never used or wired one. I know it is not with an electric range.

 

I agree. Check the max circuit requirements of the plate and make sure it is not overfused. That is as easy as changing fuses in your panel but you may need reducers to get down under 30A.

 

here is what I did

 

I just used 10/3 and up the breaker from 20 to 40amp in the fuse box.

View attachment 1423425006512.jpg

View attachment 1423425045036.jpg

 

Shouldn't 10awg be protected by a 30a fuse/breaker?

 

Of course it should.

It does appear that way. if so, that is very dangerous and careless.

 

It actually might be a 30 amp I will check when I get home. but why is that dangerous?

 

If the male prongs of the cord can be hot. I cannot exactly tell by the picture.

 

all we did was move the dryer plug down and splice inside the Junction box to add the two 10/3 wires and made two 6/20r plugs.

what male prongs being hot? I'm not understanding, I have used it once no problems or cords heating up.

 

OK. The question here is regarding the terminations of your cords. From the outlet you obviously have a male pronged plug to plug-in. What is on the other end of that cord, a male or female? In no case should you ever have a male pronged end that can be live (on the load end of the cord, rather than on the line end that is either hard wired or plugged into an outlet). If you really have wired it to have a live male cord end, that is a serious safety issue, and you should fix that before powering up again.

And yes, if you have 10awg wire, you should have a 30a breaker or fuse, to protect the wire. With a 40a breaker, the wire could overheat and catch fire before the breaker trips. Perhaps not likely, but not wise nevertheless.

 

Ok well none of the male plugs are hot, they all plug into hots. In this picture it probably shows that a little better the white or tan wire is the main wire from the main panel. The orange wire then goes down and then extends to make the dryer plug then in the junction box I have two wires coming out and going to the induction cooktops. And I must thank everyone for all the help I rather be safe and do it again than make any mistakes.

 

pix

 

pix try 2

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Glad to hear no live male plugs!