Dead Ringer IPA Full Boil

I have brewed six extract kits using partial boil and I would like to try the full boil extract method (5 gallons). I have been reading through the forum, but I would like some advice/clarification to some of my questions. FYI, I'm still learning the terminology for homebrewing, so I apologize in advance.

I am making the Dead Ringer IPA using an extract kit from Northern Brewer.

1. When I steep the crushed specialty grains, should I still steep it in 2.5 gallons of water for 20 minutes at 170 deg/F (what is stated in the directions), then add it to a 30 quart pot with about 4 gallons of boiling water on my propane burner? I have a wort chiller, so I'm not concerned about cooling the wort.

2. According to the directions for partial boil, below I listed the hop additions. How should I modify (if at all) the hops for a full boil?
-- 1 oz Centennial (60 min)
-- 1 oz Centennial (20 min)
-- 2 oz Centennial (5 min)
-- 1 oz Centennial (Dry hop)

3. Will a 30 quart pot be sufficient if I decide to pursue all grain brewing in the future?

4. Is a 6.5 gallon boil not enough/too much/just right considering some boil off that will occur?

 

That all sounds right on. Welcome to the full volume club! All you need now is a mash tun and you can go AG!

 

2.5 gal for 20 mins at 170*F will probably be fine but I would probably go 2.5-3 gals for 20-30mins. I'd probably go 155-160*F just to be sure I didn't extract tannins from the grain. Then sparge (rinse the grains) with the rest of the water used for the boil at 170*F.

You can... I would recommend a 10 gal pot for all grain 5 gal batches. Just because with a 7.5 gal pot you'll need to watch for boil overs very closely but I've done it with 7.5.

Depends on how much power you're putting into the boil and the surface area of your pot. I typically evap off about 1.25-1.5 gals/hr with the cheap burner I have but I'm also using a 10 gal pot with bigger surface area. You could just run a test with some water using the pot you want to use.

 

for #2... What does the instructions say about the volume to boil the hops in currently for a partial boil? 2.5 gals?

 

It will make delicious beer... don't worry!

 

Thanks for the advice.

According to the partial boil instructions, the hops are added to a 2.5 gallon boil.

 

it will be hoppier.

 

Excellent, I love hoppy beers. After I make this one (and my scotch ale), I will look for the hoppiest recipe I can find.

 

I did a full boil on this extract kit recently... just kicked the keg this weekend.

The process I used was as follows:
- I moved 0.25oz of the 60min addition to the 20 min addition. This gives 87.4IBU overall
- Added all extract at 15min
- Steeped specialty grains in 2.5gal at 150-160F, raising it to 170F at 20min
- Started with 6.5gal at beginning of boil, ended with ~5.25gal

Good Luck! This turned out amazing for me!

 

I recently did my first full boil. I used a 7.5 gal pot, and started with 6 gal, and I came close to boiling over several times. I'm going to get a larger pot for the next batch. I think you'll enjoy the process more, now that you're not inside on a stove. Just make sure you set yourself up well in the new environment.

 

I made this kit a couple months ago with a full boil and agree with these four suggestions (although I added some extract early, but moved most of it late.) I have made several NB kit beers, all with a full boil, and have learned a few things. Remember, the bittering hops add bitterness, not flavor (30-20 min) or aroma (5-0 min). Therefore, even people who think they love hops will not necessarily like the taste of beers that are extremely bitter, as can result when you do a 6.5 gal. boil rather than a 2.5 gal. boil without adjustment to your 60 min. hop addition. I ran the numbers through hopville once, and noted that changing the boil volume, and nothing else, more than doubled the IBU calculation. Therefore, as Ital noted, I would move a portion of the 60 min. hops to later in the boil. I typically save half of the 60 min. hops and add them at 45 min or so.

Also, at the risk of pointing out the obvious, regarding boil volumes, don't forget to account for the extract. You may start with 6.5 gal. of water, but after adding your LME you'll be at or over 7 gal. of liquid. I made this mistake a couple times, and ended up missing my OG by quite a bit - was way under due to too much water.

 

Hi everyone, it's been great reading all the information on here. This is my first post.

I have a couple of questions:

1. When you mention steeping the grains in 2.5 gallons, is that in the same kettle you would do the full volume boil in? Would I steep in 2.5 gallons and then add water to achieve the full volume boil?

Or would I use a different kettle for steeping the grains and add that to the kettle that I will do the full volume boil in?

2. Should I try a full volume boil if I don't have a wort chiller? Could I cool the full volume 5 gallon boil wort quick enough in my sink with ice?

Thanks!

 

To start with, what is your goal? Are you trying to add some complexity to your extract beers or trying to upgrade to all grain?

If the first: Sure! Just use one of those good grain sacks to steep for a bit and then add your extract and you're good to go.

If the second: Sure! Check out BIAB!

Hope that helps. Have fun brewing!

 

BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES From the all grain recipe
0.75 oz. Centennial (60 min)
1 oz. Centennial (20 min)
2 oz. Centennial (5 min)
Anytime you want to do the full boil with a kit just look at the hop schedule from the all grain version.

 

Thanks! I was just hoping to add complexity to my extract brewing. This will be the 2nd batch I've done.

What do you think about the wort chiller? Would using my sink and ice be sufficient? Or do I need to have a wort chiller to cool down 5 gallons?

 

Many of the brewers on here have gone the good ole economy route before buying/building a wort chiller and used the ice bath method in a sink. It will take a bit longer, but it will still work. Try adding a good dose of salt in to the ice/water bath, it allows it to go below 32 degrees F. Hope that helps!

 

You could build yourself a wort chiller yourself if your somewhat handy. There's a great video that walked me right through mine. Of course I already had the pipe bender(can rent from autozone for free) it only cost me $33 to build and it looks just as good as a store bought. I get complements on it all the time. I will post the link and a pic of mine below. Hope this helps. Cheers.

 

Did a full boil on this today. It went well hit OG of 1.065. Added LME at 45 min. 60 min hops were adjusted to 0.6 oz and I then followed the all grain hop additions. Used 2 packs of Safale US-05 which were rehydrated. The 6.5 Gal carboy is in a plastic tote (big enough for 2)that has water and a hydroponic reservoir heater set to 69F, my solution to make a free fermentation heater with what I had on hand. Thanks for the tips to all that posted here, I'm thrilled with how things went. Next up is all-grain Oatmeal Stout.

 

YES !!! Pitched yeast at 1:30 PM today and just checked the airlock ->>> BUBBLES !!! Is 5 hours quick or out-of the ordinary ????

 

I used blue painters tape to tape my wireless BBQ probe to the side of the carboy today. Temp was 59F. Water temp was 56, air temp was 59, I thought that was a bit low. I ran the reservoir heater on a timer for 2 hours and the water and carboy came up to 62F, Accordingly fermentation has increased markedly. The heater is on a hydroponics timer. I have it set to run 30 minutes around 2AM and will check it at 6AM when I go out to load my outdoor wood boiler. The nice thing about the wireless BBQ thermometer is I have the receiver upstairs and can monitor it remotely from up here.