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dark star burner

Discussion in 'Equipment/Sanitation' started by ruddyscot, Sep 11, 2015.

 

  1. #1
    ruddyscot

    ruddyscot  

    Posted Sep 11, 2015
    Hi folks,
    I need some help. I ordered a Dark Star burner from the good people at Northern Brewer The rig comes with a 5 PSI regulator-- their way of making it gas efficient I think. I have had nothing but problems with huge amount of soot. Flame is mostly yellow, meaning that it has too much gas and not enough air. I've used the thingy at the connection to attempt to regulate the amounts but there is never any difference.

    Even after increasing the air intake by drilling holes near the gas connection, still so much soot. I've taken everything apart, blown air through it , brushed it -- same results.

    Anyone have any ideas about eliminating the problem?
    Thanks for your time
     
  2. #2
    1977Brewer

    Free Dan Hess.

    Posted Sep 11, 2015
    I read somewhere that they call it the dark star because of what it does to your kettle. I'd try a 10 PSI regulator and see if the higher pressure cleans up the flame a bit.
     
  3. #3
    kh54s10

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Sep 11, 2015
    Did you ever move the baffle in the other direction, allowing LESS air in? I have a turkey fryer and a Bayou Classic SP10 and neither are fully open......
     
  4. #4
    Mexibilly

    Mexibilly

    Posted Sep 11, 2015
    I have the same issue with the same burner, that by the way I got from them for free. I went back to my turkey fryer burner. Post your solution if you find it...
     
  5. #5
    ruddyscot

    ruddyscot  

    Posted Oct 14, 2015
    I received this e-mail from Todd at Northern Brewer regarding my concerns about the Dark Star burner : QUOTE The issue stemmed from a product substitution (The burner element) from the manufacture. They should not produce that volume of Soot on your kettle.

    The element that was used actually limits oxygen which creates the soot. The easiest fix for that is is to create some spacing underneath the element. That can be done by loosening the bolt and inserting some steel washers underneath it. The proper element has a rounded body that doesn't restrict the flow of oxygen.

    We are here to help, so please let me know if you have any other questions.
    END QUOTE
     
  6. #6
    day_trippr

    We live in interesting times...

    Posted Oct 14, 2015
    Uh huh.

    Send The Todd the obvious response: "How quickly can they ship a replacement for their defective product?

    Sheesh...
     
  7. #7
    msa8967

    mickaweapon  

    Posted Nov 29, 2015
    Is the "element" the same as the gas orfice opening?
     
  8. #8
    ruddyscot

    ruddyscot  

    Posted Nov 29, 2015
    incredibly easy once I saw the picture.

    Darn ! Can't upload the picture . place washers at 1 and 7 o'clock
    or thereabouts. simply loosen center bolt and slip washers down the side between fluted thingy and the iron base. this works very well
     
  9. #9
    msa8967

    mickaweapon  

    Posted Nov 30, 2015
    I now have an idea of what to do from your response. I wonder why stainless steel washers are needed instead of other metal washers?
     
  10. #10
    ruddyscot

    ruddyscot  

    Posted Nov 30, 2015
    Mick,
    I didn't use Stainless Steel-- just palin ol' washers.

    ps I have th e same slogan about beer changing the world on a refer magnet!! Same company has one " Porn saved out marriage" with a picture of a "Ozzie and Harriet" couple. too funny
     
  11. #11
    kh54s10

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Nov 30, 2015
    This ^^^ As soon as they acknowledged that there was a manufacturing defect, I would be asking for a replacement......
     
  12. #12
    oneMoreHobby

    New Member

    Posted Jun 12, 2017
    Just for further specification, the 'fluted thing' or the 'element' referred to is the the saw-blade looking thing in the exact center of the burner ring. I have the Dark Star burner and was only getting minimal blue flame with almost all yellow which was covering my pot with soot. I took the suggestion above of using the two washers and now I get mostly blue flame with just the tips yellow (as it should be). Getting yellow flames meant that there was not enough air for the air/fuel ratio even though the shutter was completely open.
     
  13. #13
    UncleAvis

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 2, 2017
    So that "(saw blade) should come free of the body? I was cleaning mine and it didn't want come out (pretty rusty). I didn't want to reef on it and break it if its not supposed to come free.
     
  14. #14
    oneMoreHobby

    New Member

    Posted Nov 3, 2017
    Yes - once you loosen that center bolt, the 'saw blade' comes apart from the cup-shaped thing it's sitting in.

    (I'm still so excited that there's been zero soot on the bottom of my kettle since I've done this fix - partly because I don't have to worry about soot getting on my hands and clothes.)
     
  15. #15
    UncleAvis

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2017
    It took a hammer and chisel to break it loose but I got it off. I was expecting soot build up but it was really rusted. Cleaned up both sides with a wire brush and added a few washers as suggested and got a nice even blue flame with just a bit of yellow tips. Planning a boil for tomorrow and hopefully I'll be soot free, or at least less so. Thanks for all the tips!
     
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