Cutting up aluminum keg

I scored a free aluminum keg and bronco pump off a friend today. He cleaned out a storage shed and didn't know he had it. I almost passed on it since it isnt ss, but I figured I could use it as a hot liquor tank since it will only use it for water. Anything to look out for when I cut it up with the grinder?

 

I'd be wary of using an aluminum keg. Not because it's aluminum, but because it could be lined with something else (barrier between the beer and metal).

 

I didn't know about that. Might need to do some research before I mess it up then. Do you know where I could find info on that?

 

Not off the top of my head... I do recall reading about how the aluminum kegs were lined so that the aluminum wouldn't react with the beer inside (same as aluminum cans). Thing is, the lining element from when aluminum kegs were used, to cans of today, are light years apart.

See what google gets you on the subject. Or hunt down an old timer that knows more about these things...

 

Thanks for the input!

 

If you are using it for a HLT it won't matter if it aluminum.

 

I would still be concerned about how the coating reacts to having heat applied directly to it (assuming the OP isn't going to use electric heating elements in it).

 

Now I am not so sure it is aluminum. When my friend showed it to me I simply put a fridge magnet on it and it didn't stick so I figured it was aluminum. I guess I'll touch it with a grinder and see if it sparks.

 

I've found that only really strong magnets will stick to a stainless keg. That is due to the alloy they are made from (either 303 or 304 stainless). A rare earth magnet will have some pull to the keg. Not even close to what you would think though (its the nature of the alloy).

 

Stainless steel is magnetic in proportion to the amount of iron in a particular alloy. Metals in stainless such as nickel and chromium are not ferrous, hence nonmagnetic. Indeed, if a keg is made from 303 or 304 it's not going to be particularly magnetic. Stainless steel cookware intended to be used on induction cooktops must have more iron in it, or in the form of a high-iron disk incorporated into the bottom of the vessel, and for the same reason: induction can only occur in proportion to the iron content of the cookware.

 

Try weighing it - aluminum is far lighter than SS. Many aluminum alloys are pretty soft, so you may be able to scratch it with something sharp & compare it to a known SS keg?

 

I have never seen an aluminum keg, and didn't know they made kegs out of aluminum. Can you post a pic?

 

Many years ago they used aluminum for kegs. Then they switched to stainless steel. I believe the switch was done in the early 90's (not really sure the exact time frame). Most kegs we get are stainless steel. Even H&S kegs are stainless. It's rather rare to find one that's actually aluminum these days. Mostly since they've long since been recycled, since they were probably from the 1960's.

Aside from the scratch test, or using a file on the keg (best to compare against something else made from 304 stainless), a rare earth magnet will tell you IF it's stainless. You'll feel a slight pull on the magnet from a stainless keg. You'll get no pull from an aluminum keg. I just tested this with a magnet pulled from a hard drive on both a sanke keg, and piece of aluminum.

 

So I got home and weighed the keg in question to another one that I know is SS. Just as heavy! To think I almost passed on a free keg because of a refrigerator magnet.

 

Brass is softer than SS but harder than aluminum. Take a brass key and try to scratch the keg. If it won't scratch, then it's SS.