Could I get a second eye on my BIAB controller?

I finally found a panel tiny enough and durable enough to fit my needs and I think I'm ready to start drilling it out and wiring it up. Before I do, I was wondering if some of you could give it a look over and make sure I'm not missing something here. I apologize for the wiring diagram. I know it's not as clean as some posted here, but I needed to lay it out more or less how it would appear in panel and not just as a circuit diagram for my own tiny brain.

Thanks for the sanity check.

Edit : If you can't see the attachments BIAB panel design

View attachment panel Front.pdf

View attachment panel Bottom.pdf

View attachment panel Wiring.pdf

 

Looks nice, I'm doing something similar. Where did you find your panel?

 

I don't see any attachment..... Confused.

 

Looks good uberg!

If folks are looking to minimize landscape and/or components, they make a lot of switches with built-in indicator lights.
We use a lot of the green ON/OFF selector switches like these:

Pick the color that means the most to you.
Blue for the pump as an example

'da Kid

 

Also check the interior depth of your box. Some of the controller housings are 4" deep or more.

'da Kid

 

Auber has a new panel with a single DIN precut http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=340

I asked if they had any 2 DIN boxes precut and that's unfortunately not on their radar.

Shows up fine in browser, but I noticed if you're using the HBT app, there's nothing. Are you looking at HBT on mobile?

Thanks for the once over! If only I had know about that switch before buying bits and pieces. I was trying to support some of our vendors here, so I bought most of my internal bits from ebrewsupply. It's all good though. I'm sure one day I'll want to upgrade something and this process will start anew.

The PID fits in there fine, so at this point I'm only concerned about the plugs. I think it'll be ok, but it will be tight, which is the reason I was looking for a sanity check before I started in on this.

 

For another internal wiring tip, try to find MTW wire.
It is more flexible than THHN (however not as easy to find)
It holds bends and sharp turns like a dream.

Same temp and voltage ratings. 105degC/600v

'da Kid

 

i noticed the indicator for the 'system power' is in series with the contactor coil (the power goes through the light, then the contactor). Pretty sure they should be in parallel, so the power goes through both the light and coil side-by-side. also, it looks like you're switching the neutral wire for that contactor control. you really should switch the hot wire. plus, it looks like everything other than the element is getting power before the 'system power' contactor, and you ahve another contactor for the element after the SSR, so im not sure why you felt you needed 2 contactors.

 

Hey Uberg,
In addition to what Matt noted, do not wire that E-stop the way it is. You show it going to ground and it should be to the neutral buss.

Also, E-stops are normally 'drawn' closed and the circuit opens when you push the button. as it is, your E-stop is only protecting the element circuit. Just think if you had a hose come loose . . . . your E-stop wont help 'ya.

I would have a preference of the E-stop opening the main 220v. Kill everything. Probably not easy to find a cheap 30A E-stop.
OR . . . Keep your current element control and get a double contact E-Stop and wire the pump through the other half/side.

I would choose a smaller 110v breaker as using a 15A means 14ga wire throughout the panel for control wiring. Go with something 10% or so above the pump. Hopefully like a 7.5A or a 10A.

I would also put the 30A/220V breaker first, before any other device. We would wire straight from the plug, through the breaker and then feed the buss(s).

'da Kid

 

Funny you say this because I based this off a few diagrams floating around here and it seemed odd to me. I just thought everyone else knew more than I did.

Here's what I think should happen and how I plan on to rearrange the elements in the panel. From the power in, go straight into the 30A 2-pole breaker. In series after that, wire the contactor and system power switch in parallel. In series after that, power to the buses and subsequently the element and pump.

What I'd like to happen is have power coming into the box controlled by the system switch. After that is closed, I have an indicator light telling me that the panel is energized and the PID is powered. This can allow me to program it without having the element on yet. When I do want the PID to start controlling the element, I can switch it on and have visual confirmation there's power going to the element. I have a contactor on that because that just seemed safer. Obviously, the pump is controlled by a switch in a similar fashion to the element.

Sound about right?

I'm confused here. Every single P-J diagram out there has the E-stop shorting hot to ground. My assumption was that this will instantly cause your breaker / GFCI to trip the main and kill power to the whole panel.

Pump breaker makes sense.

See above, I'm going to wire the 30A breaker in series directly after the main in. Makes more sense that way.

Where the heck do you find MTW wire in less than 500' increments?! I'd happily order a 20 - 50' cut even though that's more than I'd need. 500' just seems silly.

Thanks everyone!

 

Ok, I made the adjustments suggested, etc.

So far, doesn't look like I will electrocute myself, does it?

BIAB panel wiring mkII