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Cost to upgrade 240v panel

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by fxdude, Jul 18, 2013.

 

  1. #1
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    How much have people on here typically paid to upgrade their panel to 240v and install the outlet? I received a quote for $575 for "Supply and install a new 240v 30amp line from sub panel to kitchen with new outlet box and new breaker in panel". This seemed really high, I have the outlet and the installation is directly on the other side of the wall from the panel. This also does not include drywall patching for running the lines.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. #2
    uxo

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    Is he just adding a 30 amp breaker inside the current panel? Or running a new sub panel?
    Do you have an electric dryer, electric water heater or electric stove?
    If so, you already have 240v service. You just need to run a new circuit.

    It is hard to say without looking at it but it could be anywhere from $350-550$
    Call someone else.
     
  3. #3
    mrshaund

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    In Michigan I was quoted 500.00 to run a sub panel 25 feet from my main breaker box
     
  4. #4
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    I believe everything I have is gas (it's a townhome in Los Angeles I just moved into), I think my panel needs to be upgraded.
     
  5. #5
    mrwizard0

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    Take a pic of the panel so we can see if its 240. I installed my own circuit breaker/outlet so it was really cheap
     
  6. #6
    DaleHair

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    About 15 years ago I was an electrical contractor in the LA area and I know costs are a lot higher now. I would say that price is mid range. I would get more quotes and be sure the price includes repair of any damage that may occur.
     
  7. #7
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    Here is a photo of my panel

    photo-1.jpg
     
  8. #8
    evanmars

    EAC Wannabe  

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    The panel already has 240VAC. Breakers 9/10 and 11/12 are both for 240V circuits. You just need to add a 30amp double pole breaker. How many open spaces are there on the panel in one column?

    EDIT: Looks like you definitely have space in the left hand column. The black cover below breaker 7 and the space below it.
     
  9. #9
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    That's what I thought but wasn't exactly sure. Here is a pic of the full panel, I have room on both sides for a 30amp double pole breaker. Seems that the $575 just to install the breaker and the outlet box on the other side of the wall is a little pricey especially without any drywall repair. I'm pretty good at handy work and I enjoy learning to do new things myself but I've never done much with electrical work.

    photo-1.jpg
     
  10. #10
    brew_ny

    Social_Misfit  

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    be careful electricity bites and you sure do not want to burn your place to the ground

    for some reason I do not see the main breaker in your panel

    the two 220/240 you have now are marked AC, you have room in your panel but I would find out how many amps your service is and how big your main breaker is

    just because you have room for breakers does not mean you can put more in

    with all that being said I am no sparky by any means but have run lots of electricity at my place

    not saying 575$ is fair or correct but a licensed electrician has to work up to code if you place burns down or you die it is on him

    all the best and have a great day

    S_M
     
  11. #11
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    I've been zapped a few times in the past which is probably why I've always stayed away from electrical work. It's a townhouse so there are 14 other units in the building. I definitely want everything up to code but just didn't budget this much in to an already expensive brewery build.

    Oh well, might just have to save a little longer to put the whole thing together. Thanks for all the help
     
  12. #12
    brew_ny

    Social_Misfit  

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    I hear you about costs

    How much power do you need where you want to brew ? Maybe have him put a 30 amp 220/240 outlet under your panel box and run a 10 or 8 ga cord when you want to brew

    I know I run heavy drawing equipment 220/240 off 100 foot 10 and 8 ga leads all the time here around my place

    never had a problem

    just a thought

    S_M
     
  13. #13
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    Not a bad idea but the spot where I'm brewing is just on the other side of the wall from the panel so I'm guessing it's not that much cheaper to install the outlet there under the panel. Plus the panel is in a bathroom and I'd rather pay the extra to have a dryer outlet in the kitchen rather than the bathroom :)
     
  14. #14
    grathan

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    $575 is not pricey to do it yourself. Depends on how long of a run of wire you need and if it's 2 strands or 3 strands with a ground. And if it's GFCI.

    10Gauge wire worst case scenario is $185 for 250' of 10-3 nomex
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...NM-B-W-G-Wire-63948455/202316277#.Ueg1uo1OT3U

    Ground fault breaker or normal breaker? worst case scenario is probably $80 for GFCI.

    Outlet worst case scenario is $30, + box $5 + nails $5

    So that is $300 if you do it yourself using top of the line.
     
  15. #15
    petey_c

    Senior Member  

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    fxdude, It looks like you've got the room for an additional 30A ckt. based on what the panel label says. The number of breaker spaces available does not mean you can slap a 100A circuit breaker in (like brew_ny said). When you calculate your load, some are considered continuous (hot water heater) and others non-continuous (A/C). If the new circuit is for a brew rig, it's considered non-continuous. There's probably an electric meter room that will have electric meters and panel disconnects for each occupancy panel. You could probably ask the property management people (or the property super) what the panels are rated for. Contractors, especially in areas like Hollywood and New York have to charge more because the cost of living/doing business there is higher (license fees, insurance, accountants, rent, etc.). I think it's a little on the high side, but not sore butt bad. It's better to let a licensed guy do the work and not have to worry. If you choose to do the work yourself, don't do it alone. Have someone there to help if you get hung up on the circuit or to call 911. Pete
    To add to what grathan said; 10/3 romex is about 1$/ft. you can buy shorter rolls if you want. I always like the additional wire in there in case you need it. The added cost will be insignificant (10/3 vice 10/2)
     
  16. #16
    brew_ny

    Social_Misfit  

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    Had to reread your first post sometimes I am a bit slow on the uptake :)

    I get it I thought he was going to install a subpanel in your kitchen but I now understand what you have is a sub panel with a main breaker some place else

    if it was me and I could get to my main to turn it off I would and pop a hole threw the wall and put an outlet in

    but I have done electrical stuff before, 575$ appear to be a bit on the high side

    breaker, wire and outlets is not that costly, I just put in a sub panel/ breaker panel in an out building the panel was 99 dollars on sale for a square D

    100 amp main breaker with two 220 30 amp breakers and three 15 amp 110 breakers

    they had a 30 foot piece of under ground feed direct burial cable for 45 dollars

    good luck I would call around a bit you would be surprised a how prices can very

    tell then you are a home brewer maybe they'll help a brother out

    all the best and enjoy the day

    S_M
     
  17. #17
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    I only need about a 5' run so that'd only be about $4-$5, $80 breaker, and I have the outlet so that would only be about $100 in material $475 labor. Not sure how long it will take but I'm guessing only 2-3 hours max.

    They were really friendly and I'm getting other work done (running power for ceiling fans in two rooms). I'll get one or two other quotes then may just bite the bullet and have them do it.
     
  18. #18
    MemphisAniD

    Member

    Posted Jul 18, 2013
    I just recently upgraded my old fuse box that was 100amp to a 200amp breaker box. I also had 2 grounded lines run from the box to outlets in the house and 50amp service run to the wall Im building my eHerms keggle BCS system. In total it was $1,825.

    The breakdown was like this:

    Upgrade from fuse box to 200amp service box : $1,550
    - this included a new box outside for the 200amp service, 200 amp box in the house, a run of wire from outside panel to new panel, all of the breakers, and running 2 ground wires

    Run 2 lines with 3 outlets : $100
    - This included a 20amp run to my theater room with an outlet at the projector and an outlet at the rack with all the electrical and a 15 amp run to my computer room

    Run new 50amp service with a 50amp breaker in the panel and connect to a 50amp spa pannel at the basement wall: $175
    - This was about a 15ft run of 6g wire and the price included the 50amp breaker AND the 50amp Spa panel


    So for me since I had it done with the upgrade I think he just increased the price by the cost of the materials for the 50amp run. I asked if I had him do that later how much it would cost and he said it would be the same base price but an extra $75 added on since that is what he charges when he comes per visit.

    Long post short... get some more quotes if you can and always ask for proper identification and proof of insurance.
     
  19. #19
    neild5

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 21, 2013
    I just installed a sub panel and a 30 amp outlet, both are 70-75 feet from the main panel and done in 3/4 EMT as we can not use romex. The total cost of materials was close to a grand, labor was me and my brother.
     
  20. #20
    DaleHair

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 22, 2013
    The cost of materials should be no more than $40 from Home Depot. To get a contractor to come out to do anything in LA will probably be $400-$500 labor. I could do the whole job in under an hour + time to get parts and travel, but always charged a 3 hour minimum.
     
  21. #21
    DrHops

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 23, 2013
    I guess I got lucky. I bought the spa panel from eBay for $45 including shipping then went to Home Depot to get the outlet and new breaker. A friend of my daughters father is a master electrician that I've known for years. He came out and hooked everything up. It took him about 2 hours and he only charged my $100. I knew that I got a bargain, but didn't realize how much of one until now.
     
  22. #22
    fxdude

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Aug 7, 2013
    Got a second quote and found someone that will do a 30amp GFCI breaker, install my outlet, and patch drywall for $500. Other company didn't include drywall patching and only a non GFCI breaker for $575

    Had a lead on an electrician that does projects outside his normal work hours for some side cash but decided to get it done by a licensed/bonded company just to make sure it's done right.

    Thanks for everyone's help
     
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