Controller help

So I am looking into building an auto electric system. I have came across 2 controllers that peak my interest.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel
http://www.kegglebrewing.com/220-Volt-Herms-Controller_p_420.html

Do any of you have experience with either of these or have any input? Id like to know what everyone thinks or if there are other options available.

 

The electricbrewery link is the famous Kal control panel. If you search these forums for "Kal Clone" you'll find a lot of people building their own panel and really liking it. The Keggle one is new but at a great price. It seems to be fairly similar to Kal's panel. I wish there was more information on it as it as peaked my interest. I don't have an electric system yet, but from my research, I really like Kal's version. My two cents.

 

I definitely built mine for less than half of that keggle brewing link. For 1300 bucks I could just about rebuild my entire electric brewery, minus all the trial and error.

 

I orginally didn't plan to build my own, seemed a little more complicated at the surface. However after a nights worth of research I decided on building my own. Can anyone tell me if I am missing anything or should consider anything else?

Part List:
1 - Nema Enclosure - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BR4IJOC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

3 - 30A 120VAC Relay - http://www.zoro.com/g/00062830/k-G2290127

3- 1/16 DIN PID W/ SSR Output - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

2 - 60A SSR - http://www.lightobject.com/60A-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-DC-In-AC-Out-P63.aspx

2 - SSR Heatsink - http://www.lightobject.com/Heat-sink-for-60A-90A-SSR-P591.aspx

2 - 30A 250VAC locking receptacle - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YS8X16/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

1 - 15A 125VAC receptacle - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU1CAE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

1 - 31A 250VAC 4-wire drier cord - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AAEGCC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

1 - Key switch - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QAJ23S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

3 - XLR plug - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPF94/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 - Toggles for pumps - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TJ2X8S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

1 - Toggle for switching elements - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FRE1E8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 - Yellow 220VAC LEDs - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUW2MGA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 - Covered Barrir strips 600V 25A - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005I03WOI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

1 - 50A 2-pole 240VAC GFCI Breaker - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VYNOZI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

This would cost a total of $465

Using this wiring diagram:
http://cdn.instructables.com/FVU/ABQY/HRGNR9VQ/FVUABQYHRGNR9VQ.LARGE.jpg

 

You can save a couple dollars and go with 40amp relays. 5500watt elements only draw about 23 amps.

But everything else looks like your on your way.

 

And in your drawing there should be 2 hot buses

 

Why should there be 2 hot buses? Since one hot wire can be soldered into 2 and then each one ran to each ssr

 

Also, wbarber, I was curious if this was close to your setup, I ask cause you made it seem yours was very cheap to do and this seems to be the cheapest way to go.

 

What you have there is the basic setup we all tend to use. We all have our tweaks. But it all starts with what you have. Others have added e-stops. Extra analog manual controls. Automated controllers. Volt meters. Electrically controlled valves. And more. I did manage to make mine cheap. I removed all the safety idevices since I have all that in my walls already. So I was able to make my setup a lot smaller. But I also use 12v pumps only and I have a 12v power supply and pump switches setup for for each kettle. My setup also has a HERMS coil so I built in a 3 way switch to determine which temperature sensor reads out as mash temp and another that determines which pid controls the HLT element. But at the core they all use pids SSRs and blinky lights

 

Do not solder the two hot wires together....

220 Vac household current in the US is made up of two conductors of 110 Vac to ground at different phases to each other so that there is 220 Vac potential between the two wires.

 

Alright that's what kinda figured. Question about the hookup wires within the panel. What gauge should they be? I imagine the dc wires can be 18? And the wires running 120 should be 14 or what?


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We'll if I only solder 2 wires to be used for each ssr to 1 of the hot wires from the power plug that would only mean 120 at any given time, not 220.



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No. You need someone else to wire this up for you. Or you need to do a lot more research.

 

JEHeikkila: I suggest you read my article on supply power in north america. It explains how 120V and 240V work and are related.

As wbarber69 mentioned, I would hold off doing any electrical work / building of your panel until you have a clear understanding of how this works.

Kal