Control Panel Question

I am building a control panel for a gas fired herms system. It is almost exactly the same as this one pictured below. However it will be one SYL-2342, one Honeywell vr8200x to control the HLT and an auberins JSL-73A beer timer, plus I am going to add another pump switch. My big question is how do I wire in an on/off/on switch in place of SW2 so that I can run the solenoid valve manually, or PID controlled?

Thanks

Nick

 

The switches in the diagram are illuminated push button type.
In place you could use 3-way switches for burners and wire them for (Manual ON, OFF, and Auto/PID) control of the valves. You would have to use a separate LED indicator and it would need to be 24VAC.

 

Thanks , but I am trying to figure out how the 3 way should be wired. I haven't been able to find this particular config in any of P-J's diagrams.

 

I just finished a diagram that might help you in your plan.

And - As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

Just a heads up. I added a power control switch in the diagram. It was something I forgot.

P-J

 

PJ, you are awesome for helping everyone out as much as you do. I've been looking for almost exactly this set up except I want two of the Auber SYL 2342's instead of one like you have in this diagram. Can you help me with that? Thanks!

 

I think this diagram might help you. It is without the timer but does have 2 pids in the setup. Let me know if you need the timer and if so - which one.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")




I hope this is A-Ok for you.

P-J

 

P-J Thank you very much, You are awesome and a huge asset to have for help.

Nick

 

I did a lot more messing with the diagram today as I did not want to leave you and everyone else short with the plan. Therefore I went back in on the plan and included the timer. So - As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")




I've added the timer circuit and also modified the timer diagram to incude all 3 of the control buttons that are available - Stop, Pause & Reset... A new first for me too.!

It was a huge project for me to accomplish 'cause' I was running out of room for completing the drawing.

I sure hope this helps you.

P-J

 

This is exactly what I'm looking for, timer and all. The stop, pause and reset buttons are a bonus that I'll incorporate. I can't thank you enough, PJ. You are one of the greats on this board.

 

You are very welcome.

BTW - If you down loaded and saved the large diagram for printing, you might want to do it again. I found and fixed a couple of issues I had with the diagram. One to add the stop button on the timer. There were a some others as well.

P-J

 

Two questions, P-J. One, on the e-stop, it looks as though the button cuts the connection between the ground and the hot line. I'm confused because it looks like the hot line branches before the e-stop, which to my minimal electrical skills appears that the hot won't be broken by pressing the button.

Second, are the switches controlling the Honeywell valves three position switches so the valve can be fired manually?

I hope I don't sound ungrateful asking these questions. I couldn't be more appreciative of your efforts.

 

Please allow me to explain MY design for the E-Stop method and circuit that is illustrated in the diagram (And most every diagram that I have drawn).

The switch is not in place to turn off a power line. Please read on:

The first issue is: I strongly recommend that each and every brew build be GFCI protected. I feel that this is critical for personal protection when dealing with power in wet areas. The diagram states "From GFCI protected outlet".

Now with that said: The E-Stop is a normally open push button switch that is set up with 2 - 1K ohm resistors in series. It is set to provide a small leakage current to ground and thus tripping the GFCI circuit breaker stopping ALL power to the brewery controller and the brewery.

This is a very serious safety issue and protection method that I feel must be in place.

I most certainly hope you understand what I am saying & I appreciate your asking VERY much.

Next: "switches controlling the Honeywell valves" are on/off 2 pole single throw switches with 2 N/O contacts. (Auber Instruments SW1 as stated in the diagram.) The PIDS Auberins SYL-2342 are relay out PIDS that operate very much the same as their SYL-2352 BUT the SYL-2352 has SSR control output. Note These Auber Instrument PIDS have a feature that allows control over the percent of power being delivered to the heating element. This is the base reason that I Always recommend the SYL 2342 for gas fired breweries as you can obtain absolute control over your brew process. If you need to shut one or the other off you have that option built into the diagram plan.

I certainly hope all of this makes sense and if you have additional questions PLEASE feel free to ask.

Wishing you my very best.

P-J

 

Thanks, P-J, that makes perfect sense. Much appreciated.

 

Nick,

I just posted a revised diagram for you. The new one includes the 'stop' button on the timer. Just refresh the original posted reply to see and save the new diagram. Post #4

(Getting old just plainly sucks.!)

I hope this is of some additional help for you in your project.

P-J

 

Thanks P-J. I'm in the over 50 club so yeah I know how it is

 

Hey P-J,

So after reading through the entire 30+ pages of the other thread with all of your diagrams, and doing some other research I think I am ready to jump into my own electric system. I am looking to do a 120v, 2 element, 2 PID, 1 pump, eHERMS system. I'm planning on using one PID just to monitor mash temp and the other for HLT/BK temp. Now would it be possible to use the STC-1000 on a system like this (since I have two brand new in boxes)?

Also if you could I would greatly appreciate a wiring diagram for a setup like this.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me and I really appreciate everything you have done to help all of us out!!

 

Sorry. I'm not familiar with the STC-1000 & after doing a little digging around?? I don't think I want to invest the amount of time I would need to develop wiring plans for it.

P-J

 

Yes you can use it. Y have 3 options

- Modify your STC-1000 to route out 12V control signal instead of relay output (try to find a thread posted here a few day ago how to do it)

- Use any extra power supply with 5v-36V output range

- Use SSVR instead of SSR.

 

P-J

Thanks for looking into it for me. I think I am going to use the stc-1000's for fermentation and go buy some Auber PIDs like you use in your diagrams.

 

Brumateur,

Thank you very much for the help, I can't seem to find the thread you mentioned, (i'm still searching though) and when you say to use SSVR instead of SSR, would that just mean to replace the SSRs with SSVRs?

 

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-modifing-ssr-361644/

 

Thanks a lot!! I guess I just wasn't searching correctly haha


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

Finally got all my parts in, and wired up. everything works as it should...just not a very neat wiring job. Thanks again to P-J

 

This is awesome, and I think just about what I need. You provide an awesome service PJ!!! How hard is it to wire in a 3 pos switch so the burners can be manually fired? I have the same gas valves, pids, etc that are in this very diagram. Btw - where in CLT are you PJ? I'm just west of LKN.

Todd