Control box help for noob.

Getting back into homebrew and would like to go electric BIAB. Ive been looking at build plans and will be doing a 5500w 30A setup.Ill be hooking the element to kettle "kals way" (20 gal bayou classic)that seems simple enough. My question is with the controller.Eveyone has a different way theyre using it so every build is different.Id like to build it for around $100.With no box I have that.And no pump.
What I would like:
Temp control for mash
Temp control for boil
Boil alarm
It sounds like all I need is a pid with manual control an ssr alarm and buttons?
I just don't know which ones to buy.
Could someone help me with a parts list and is it doable for a bean
If I need buttons the light up ones look nice

 

Even though it's almost half your budget, I'd go with the Aubrins 2352 as it does everything you need for a PID.

As far as the SSR, contactor, temp probe, heat sink, and misc lights/switches you can probably get some ebay deals from China and still be close to your budget.

 

Get one of these. Seriously its way cheaper than anything else, preprogrammed and wired, has heating & cooling option, and memory programmable fermentation regimens. Liek you can have an "ale" setting or "lager" or like a standard "belgian" where it starts low and ramps up.
I managed to snag one in the preorder and can't wait to try it out
www.blackboxbrew.com

 

That is just an STC-1000 controller in a box. Like any thermostat, it will not hold mash temps as consistent as a PID controller. It is also not rated for amperage necessary to drive a 5500w, 240v element. It is really more suitable for controlling fermentation temperatures.

 

Wow, completely missed the mash controlling temp. Long day...

 

Would this work? It seems to have every major thing I need.For less than the 2352.And its not from china. I have no idea how to compare specshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Digital-...hermocouple-thermostat-Heatsink-/371134794995

 

I would be cautious about that listing/seller. The photo is obviously doctored (look at the ssr label), and there are a few "counterfeit" negative feedback comments on other items from the seller.

 

IMO spend your money on the brains (PID), everything else is easy to get via cheap mass production (lights, swithes, etc). Now it would also be good to get the SSR from reputable source as changing those out can be a pain considering the heatsink and that they tend to fail open. Just about any properly rated contactor should work fine. Also if you decide to upgrade your panel one day then you already have a great PID.

 

A $20 mypin "TD4" pid with manual mode will work just as well as the auger at less than a third of the price. (All the same features and functionality)... I use 3 and have for almost a year with no issues. So I speak from actual experience in this case. And yeah I've also been using 3 $4 SSR's complete with $3 heat sinks.... I'm still waiting for all the issues people keep speculating about...

 

I actually bought this same kit prior to buying the my pins that's a rex pid it works OK but has no manual boil control mode nor does it display Fahrenheit. I did use the Ssr and heat sink but replaced the temp sensor with a my pin ta7 which I later replaced with the better td4 and better rtd sensors over the thermocouple

After reviewing your link it shows that the pid isn't even the one designed to drive an ssr but rather a relay output version which many have to modify to work correctly.
I built my panel below for under $300. So your plan is very doable.

 

I would like to add that I got a SSR with a heat sink that looks similar to the one in the picture. It got ridiculously hot during the boil. To the point that I replaced it with another heat sink I bought off amazon.

So, something to keep in mind...unless you plan to cool it with a fan. That would help a bit.

 

I do use a 12v pc fan and my heat sinks just get warm not hot.

 

Ill go with the mypin td4.Looks like lots of people here have used them.And ill look into better heat sinks.Ive seen someone mount the heatsink outside the box to help keep things cool..and run a fan.Im going to do that. What makes a heatsink better..size?

 

Dont forget Newegg has them too... some sell them as Apgtek regardless that they clearly has "MYPIN" printed on them...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=pid_controller-_-9SIA0U00AC2074-_-Product

 

You have the *exact* same requirements that I had! I built this box - http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-brewing-system/?ALLSTEPS
...with a few modifications. I did a dedicated 10/3 run with a 30amp GFCI breaker in my panel instead of the spa panel. The box ended up to be VERY tight, and although it works and was a great learning experience for me, it'll be the very first thing I upgrade. Total cost for the box was ~$150.

The switch ended up burning out immediately (and tripped by breaker), so I bypassed it. Everything's grounded (box and kettle), and I just unplug when I want things off.

I went with the 5500W Camco element, element housing from BrewHardware.com, and bags from http://biabbags.webs.com. I used the 6" Vortex fan and built my hood from foil-lined insulation.

I did my first run (1.070 Black IPA) last week and lived to tell about it! I have a few process bugs to work through, but all the physical parts worked as they should've.

 

Can I run a 25 or 30 ft line from the dryer outlet to control box with a Male plug on the box.This way when not brewing and for storing I can just disconnect,roll up the cord and have no cords coming out of the box.It would work better for me this way.In the winter I can run cord up the stairs and into the kitchen were Id like to brew and In the summer I can run cord out the window to brew outside. I think I read a 5500w is a more than enough to boil a 10 gal batch.So If loose a little power to the element I should still be alright?

What do you think.

 

I would do it if it was me. I have afew small heat sinks if you pay for the mail . Text if you want them Kurt 801-637-6113

 

John,by upgrade do you mean just the size of the box or adding something.Yours is the bare bones "gets it done" panel Im building.The only thing Im adding is an alarm

 

Both, I guess. I mean, that box is too small to fit even those very basic components, and I'd like to add some switches so the box can be plugged in without having everything hot all the time without unplugging either the box or the element. My 2am waking moment was to build a wooden box inbetween the 2x6 studs above my bench.
I've seen plastic boxes and even cigar boxes for controllers, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'll get rid of the wall outlet and the unruly cord between the wall and the box and run the 10/3 right into the box. I'm looking at P-J's 5500W 30a e-stop diagram but still digesting.

 

Hi Augie, I have just received a MYPIN TA4 and an SSR (40a) and waiting for my RTD PT100 to hook to my Blichmann Brewcoil. Do you have a wiring diagram I could refernece? I am new to this and I haven't been able to find a diagram that makes sense for the TA4 and how to hook up the PT100. I have a basic 2 pole single throw switch controlling the coil from a three wire 220v dryer cord now, but I want to be able to set up my strike water to heat to ~ 170 degrees, then when I am ready to get my mashout water to boiling without too much trouble. It is a one kettle system that has worked well in "manual" mode (in other words, I don't leave the room while it is on). Thanks in advance and happy brewing! Tim

 

Im sure augie will help but I thought you were supposed to get the TD4. Something about the Ta4 having no manual mode and only reads in celcius.I could be wrong.

 

TA-4 supports both Celsius and Fahrenheit reading. But it doesn't have a manual mode. So you can maintain temperature you want bat can't control boiling intensity.

 

Yes Brumateur is absolutely correct.

 

I will have to look for a pic of my wiring... I will have to open my panel in a couple days to change out a switch when it arrives (upgrade) I can check the wiring then... I know I did a search here to find the wiring schematic myself because I also had a ta7 and the wiring was different if I remember correctly because the schematics that came with it were wrong

 

Great, thanks. I'm in no rush, the RTD probably won't be here for a week or so and I still need to build the enclosure. I appreciate any help you can offer. Tim