Contemplating RIMS vs. direct fire mash tun

I originally got a cut-out keg with the vision of direct-firing for step-mashes and general heat loss, but have been kicking around going RIMS with it instead for the few advantageous reasons vs. a direct fire. However I may have some (self-imposed) limitations that may make the experienced electric/RIMS/etc folk tell me to not bother. Looking for such feedback and / or specific product recommendations.


Mash tun as currently imagined:



Current Products List (subject to change):
1) False Bottom: _________________________________________
2) Pump: March 815 PL
3) Tube: Bobby's Brewhardware tube
4) Element: 120 1500W
5) PID: Auber SYL-2352
6) Temp Probe / Sensor: ___________________________________


I would still plan on heating strike / sparge water on the stovetop, and still use the burner for boil. My electric skill level is not union-certifiable by any means - for reference, enough to wire up a Love controller to a freezer, make minor pinball table repairs, wire stereos - but was thinking I could get away with the above with just 120 plugs into GFI outlets in the house and manually unplug/plug the PID and pump, no extra fuses/switches/control box/etc. If I'm wrong here, feel free to red flag me.

Also not sure if 1500W would be enough for effective step mashing.

Been trying to do my diligence searching around but a lot of people's systems are obviously more complicated / full electric so it can be tricky gleaning info. Appreciate any thoughts!

 

I have almost the same setup. I use a 2000W element instead of 1500W, and I have a false bottom from Jay at NorCal, plus the "deluxe" 2-inch RTD probe from Auberins (not sure if they're still selling it: it comes with a stainless jacketed wire and panel-mount XLR connectors). I also use a spray-foam-insulated lid from a 5-gallon RubberMaid drink cooler; it fits inside the keg's chime but is bigger than the opening.

I haven't brewed since I got the tube from Bobby_M, but my prior tube (typical stainless pipe-Ts from the DIY RIMS thread) would take about 45 minutes to go from ground water temp (high 50's) to mash temp (150+). Stepping up to 170 would take another 10 minutes. Take that with a grain of salt: a lot depends on how insulated your Mash Tun is, how long your hoses are, room temp, grain temp, etc. I happen to have long stretches of un-insulated hoses, so I'm sure I'm losing a lot of heat that way.

Since you're not direct-fired anymore, you can put insulation around your keg and help things along (I recommend at least two layers of the 24" Reflectix from Home Depot). And try to keep your hoses short and/or cover them in insulation.

You can mount the pump and PID into a metal toolbox and carry everything with you. Just be sure to provide proper ventilation for the pump, otherwise it may overheat. Search "toolbox RIMS" for some good ideas.

 

It's taken a while (was waiting a while for wiring help), but I have my RIMS up and running. I figured I would update this post in case anyone came across it for a hopefully thorough detailing of my RIMS build. My mindset was to not skimp out on parts - I'm sure this could be done a lot cheaper - but also to remain fairly simple and to just have a recirculating mash tun that primarily holds temp (although I don't count on it for step-mashes, I may try a few).


I won't post exact prices but I will say I came in right around $1k for a total.


Link for pics / vids: https://plus.google.com/photos/1073...s/5998086480059210065?authkey=CJiGnJ3dpPrL_wE


Pump March 815-PL http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/march-815-pl-pump-6-foot-power-cord-and-plug.html
False Bottom Norcal - Jay Bird 15" False Bottom with Filter 1 Stand http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/product496.html w/handle, reverse hinge, level 1 stand
RIMS Tube Bobby's Brewhardware RIMS Tube 18" http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/169-newrims
Element 120-1500-LD Element http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html x2, have one on hand
PID Auber Instruments SYL-2352 http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3
Temp Probe Auber Instruments PT-100-L100NPT 4" RTD 1/4" NPT http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=107 Deluxe cable


Insulation Home Depot Reflectix 24" http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflecti...Tab-Insulation-ST24025/100020855#.Uo06cvnrwUY
Bottom Drain Brewhardware 3pc kit http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/137-tcsanke
Top "in" bulkhead Brewhardware weldless coupling http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/59-weldless-bulkhead
Ball Valves Brewhardware 2PBV http://brewhardware.com/valves-69/69-ball-valve x2
GFI plugs Northern Brewer GFI plug adapters http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/shockbuster-gfci-outlet-adapter.html x2
Barbs Brewhardware 1/2" NPT -> 5/8" male hose barbs http://brewhardware.com/fittings-75/74-hose-barbs 2x Male, 2x Female
Tubing Morebeer 1/2" silicone tubing http://morebeer.com/products/silicone-tubing-12-id-foot.html x15ft

Inner Return Hose Loc Line http://brewhardware.com/accessories/114-mashtube Add six extra links
Quick Disconnects Brewhardware "Big C" camlocks for RIMS exits http://brewhardware.com/fittings-75/102-camlock-disconnects x2
SS Pump Head Williams Brewing - chugger SS head http://www.williamsbrewing.com/STAINLESS-PUMP-HEAD-FOR-MARCH-CHUGGER-P3328.aspx

Misc Electric Parts: ordered toggle switches and Auber SSR online. The rest were from Home Depot or local electric supply outlets.

- 3x toggle switches (Main, Heater, Pump)
- Auber SSR
- 1 dual female AC outlet combo unit
- 1 recessed male screw-in AC outlet (order this online, they did not have these at big-box stores)
- 2x 6-terminal screw in terminal blocks for Hot & Neutral
- 15A rated extension cord + male cord cap (one end used to wire up to element, one end used with male cord cap as cord from box to wall)
- plastic enclosure (toolboxes seemed a bit out-of-square, would have been awkward to mount things. Found I believe an 8" x 8" electrician enclosure, would recommend larger
- in-line fuse holder and 15A fuses
- wire terminal ends - recommend a 50pk of the larger ones for the terminal blocks + SSR + etc. One smaller pack to fit the Auber PID.
- spool of wire - recommend 14ga, 12ga was a bit hard to work with
- mounting hardware for terminal blocks, SSR

Misc Tools: some things I ran across that I either needed to borrow / "rent" a.k.a. take back to Home Depot after 30 seconds of use (combo wrench) / buy

- good high-torque, low-speed drill with a good chuck for drilling hole(s) in keg
- quality cobalt bit and cobalt step bit
- 1.25" combo wrench was great at tightening the weldless bulkhead fitment, everything else I had wasn't good enough

 

Is the PID controlling both the pump and the element or is the pump always on?

 

The box is set up mainly with a pass-thru for the pump, wired to the toggle switch (vs unplugging and plugging in). The PID only fires the heater.

 

Gotcha thanks, looks very doable for somebody that wants to take modest first step into automation.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

It really is a "if I can do it anyone can" deal...especially with all the info available on this site to help!