Chilling wort in the primary fermenter (bucket)?

I use my bath full of ice to cold the wort.

For my first brewing, I put the kettle in the bath. But there is a thermometer on the kettle and I don't think it likes to go under water that much!

So I'm thinking about transfering the wort to the primary fermenter as soon as the boil is done, put the lid on the fermenter and put it in the bath, instead of the kettle.

But most of the time, in videos and tutorials, they chill the wort in the kettle itself. Do you see any problem with chilling the wort in the primary fermenter (bucket) instead of in the kettle?

 

boiling hot liquid in a plastic bucket ? or a glass carboy ?

might not be good idea

you can always try it with boiling water and see how it goes

all the best

S_M

 

You can do that in a plastic bucket, the are safe to well above boiling. Never try it with a carboy though. Glass carboys will shatter, plastic carboys will deform.

Want to be a little gutsy? I poured boiling wort into my fermenter and put the lid on and didn't chill it. It took about 36 hours to get to pitching temp but the beer came out fine. If you decide to do this you do need to change the hopping schedule since your wort will be near the boiling temp much longer and you will get more hop bittering. Late additions will become more like bittering hops than flavor hops.

 

What kind of thermometer do you have on your boil kettle that can take the dry heat of boiling the wort, but not the cooling in water?

 

Something like this :



There is now water behind the glass and it stays there!

 

Thanks RM-MN, I'll try it.

 

From what i heard it is bad to do that. Its called "hot-side aeration" and it says if done this way and the wort is not chilled to optimum temperature of 80 degrees F" then it causes "oxygen to bind chemically to various wort compounds. Over time, these compounds will break down, freeing atomic oxygen back into the beer, where it can oxidize the fatty acids and alcohol, producing off-flavors and aromas like wet cardboard or sherry." All from john j palmer's book how to brew, i would recommend it its great book. So basically it causes oxidaztion and produces off-flavors

 

One thing I have learned from reading "how to" books is that you should NEVER write something until you are totally certain about it. Hot side aeration is one of those. While not a great idea, on the homebrew scale it just doesn't happen.

I brewed 2 batches of red ale, as identical as I could. For one, I did everything as "right" as I could, full hour boil, fast chill, everything I could think of. The second I did everything wrong, 20 minute boil, no chilling, dumped it into the fermenter bucket while still boiling from as high as I could hold it to get as much air into it as I could. Now, about 9 months from the time I bottled them I still can't tell one from the other.

 

I've never looked at the spec sheets for these types of pots, but I thought they would be water proof for thorough cleanings inside and out. Is it threaded on for easy replacement?
Or
You may need to build a copper wort chiller.

 

If people followed that rule, you could read the entire Internet in about an hour.

 

I've done this will most of my brews and have never had a problem. I do a partial mash and end up with about 3 1/2 gallons of mash concentrate. I then pour the mash into my primary bucket that is submerged in an ice bath and has 2 gallons of water that was used to rinse the grains. The whole process is relatively efficient.