Cheap compact wort pump

Since my power source is 1000mA I'm good, right?

 

I'm presuming that is 12V and 1A (1000mA). Should work fine.

 

Searched this thread but didn't find an answer.

I'm using two of these pumps in my single tier system and many brews under my belt with them. They work beautifully for everything I'm doing with them: transfer from BK to MLT (in through the top), vorlauf, transfer from MLT to BK (in through the top), recirculation through plate chiller, and chilling itself. Plenty fast enough for chilling with no problems.

What I'm wondering about (before killing my pumps) is whether they are strong enough for filling MLT and BK through the bottom valves? It's not a need but I have the QDs and valves in place so why not?

I'm working with a 50L converted keggle for my MLT and a ~22 gallon BK. My set up can be seen here: http://itswhatsontap.wordpress.com/2014/05/27/brew-stand-brew-day/

Thanks for your help!

 

You seem to have about the same system geometry I do for the relationship between the MLT and the BK (see attached pic). Mine are both 26 gal. Although I have only done it once, I had no problem pumping wort from the MLT to the BK. That is about the same as recirculating the wort for vorlauf. Worked well. I hope that helps.

 

Thanks, Brewitt.

But just to be sure, are you going in through the bottom of the BK? That's my big question. I'm sure the pump will handle a bit of the pressure but once I get to a certain point there's going to start being a fair bit of back pressure from the volume of wort. Can these pumps handle that? Same scenario/question as for HLT to MLT.

 

I tried pumping into bottom ball valve on my kettle, but have stopped for some of the reasons you fear. In my case it was 13 gallons of wort trying to push its way back into the MLT. It should not burn out the pump. They are both temperature and overload protected, but I could hear the additional load as the kettle filled. It's just not efficient to push against that pressure and you risk back flow into the MLT if the pump stops. (Note: This is for the US Solar pump and its clones.)

On a different topic. I have both a US Solar and one of the eBay clones. Does anyone else with this combination find that the clone is better at not clogging with either mash or hop debris?

 

I apologize, pcollins. I misunderstood your question. No, I haven't tried that. I expect it would work but, as with any upward pumping, you have to pay attention to the height of the liquid column. It seems to be harder to control the rate the higher the column is even when it is not so high as to stop the pump. I guess that makes sense since it is working harder.

 

The power source is correct.
I just got the same pump from Sears...just wondering where you got yours from?

 

$25 on eBay.

 

This pump is the exact same one I bought from Sears.com...specs on the sticker are the same.
I emailed the manufacture (Shenpeng Electronics Co.) about it and here is the email thread:

"Dear Shenpeng Electronics,

I recently purchased one of your pumps from an online retailer and was wondering what the full specs are.

The pump model I purchased was: P4580K

The specs on the pump are:

Voltage: 12.0 V DC
Power: 10w
Flow Rate 12 l/m
Pressure: 2.5

Can you provide the amperage of the pump, the temperature limit, and if it's food grade?"

They replied:

"Hello,

Your mail I read, P4580K P451112B01 is the specific model number, This water pump is not currently doing food grade, Food grade pumps can do,Only part of the need to re- pump rotor mold can.

After this pump made of food-grade High temperature can reach up to 100 ℃ Pump voltage Yang Cheng flow changes in basic

More information I hope that can help you, thank you!

Dongguan Shenpeng Electronic Co., Ltd
东莞市深鹏电子有限公司
Address:Gang Zi Da Pu Industrial Zone , Changping, Dongguan City, China
地址：东莞市常平镇岗梓大埔工业区
Contact：张斌 18676288117 QQ:2879416121
Tel：0769-81868638 Fax：0769-81868633"

Then I replied:

"So the pump can not be submerged in food liquids but can circulate food liquids?"

They responded:

"The pumps that you buy is not circulated food liquids, Wants cycling edible liquids, Needs rework pump inside the rotor, First class raw materials to be replaced with a PPS plastic casing pump, The following diagram, Is my company produces a food grade pumps, Safe to use"[/COLOR]

So first of all it's hard to understand...they must use a translator or type poor English...but it seems these are not Food Grade as some here have been questioning. At least that's what I get from their response.

I attached the picture which they refer to as the "diagram" from the email response.

 

I bet they type better english than you type chinese!

 

I think what he is trying to say is that the pump in question is not food grade. To make it food grade you would need to rework the rotor to replace it with food grade materials. His company makes other models that are food grade.

 

Just trying to pass along the info...the emails quotes were cut and paste. Podz, I'd assume your response was a joke and not a criticism...because yes, I could not type Chinese at all.

Anyways, riderkb I came to the same conclusion. And now have a pump I'm probably not going to use...I've got some rewards points I could use at Amazon and now I'm considering getting a Chugger pump.

 

It was a light jab at your criticism of their language skills. Please remember that we live in a world of many languages and the vast majority of people on this planet do not speak english as their mother tongue. I'm pretty damned impressed that they even answered you - that's a lot more than people do where I live.

 

Fair enough...didn't mean to be harsh...just trying to get the info out there as it seems a lot of people are using this pump.

The item is no longer available on the Sears website. The seller (MyStore365) was part of the Sears "market place" which is something like Amazon that lets other retailers post items for sell.

The info that MyStore365 had posted reads exactly the same as the one on eBay and here is a excerpt from the description:

"...It can operate at up to 212 degrees and 145 psi and is built of all food grade materials, so it is perfect for direct solar water heating systems as well as a host of other applications in homes, cars, boats, and RV's that require high temperature and pressure capability, or for food processing applications such as beer brewing (as a hot wort transfer pump), sous vide, and others..."

So, according to the information the actual manufacture provided, the above description is incorrect.

If the one in the picture that Peruvian802 posted earlier is the one that him and other people have been getting from this eBay seller (or the many other merchants selling what seems to be the same one):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230941130611?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&afsrc=1

...people ought to know.

 

True. Sounds like classical bait and switch to me.

 

People ought to know what?

From the picture that the manufacture sent you, I'd say there may have been some miscommunication and he's referring to a different pump. He even referenced a different part number in his reply.

Also the pump that Peruvian802 posted and you said was the same as yours, is not the same as the eBay pump you linked to.

I wouldn't jump to any conclusions until you hear from someone who can communicate in a way that's understandable. Until then, the specs we're getting from multiple other sources are what I'll believe.

 

As you can see I said "If"...just putting it out there for discussion.

I provided the part number (and specs) in my original email and they provided a more "specific" one. Many manufactures don't print every number associated with an item on the item...I find this all the time when ordering parts at work...

The picture the manufacture sent was a pump they recommend instead of the one I wrote them about.

As far as I know from reading this thread, I'm the only one participating in this thread to contact the manufacture (not the seller) of the "fake" Topsflo pump I was sent which resembles at least one other pump mentioned in a post by another poster.

I'd like to know manufacturers and the manufacturers specs that are on the pumps purchased by other participants in this thread and not just the specs provided from the sellers they purchased from. I could be wrong in my pursuit and welcome input that would tell me my specific pump is safe to use.

 

Save all the headaches and just get the chugger. You won't be sorry. I went thru the cheap pump thing 3 of them.Then got the chugger and couldn't be happier.

 

I got my pump running yesterday. I put quick disconnects on the wires so I can turn it on and off by unplugging the hot wire.

I'm only planning on using mine for my HLT to MLT so I don't have to worry about grains/hops/trub clogging it. It's just replacing my pitcher to move hot water.

 

Am buying a food grade 12v DC pump and would like to find a reasonably priced speed regulator with a built in switch so I don't have to wire in a switch in the control box as well. The speed regulators I've found really don't say the will turn off or dial down to 0 amps. Any help would be appreciated.
zack

 

The led pwm a few people linked back a few pages will work. 0 turns it off effectively. I've had a lot of success with it.

 

OK, thank you. Found it. So much to read through, skipped a lot of pages.

 

Which one did you find to use? Can you post a link possibly?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

I'm using this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D69CTI8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Paired with this power supply:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ME2HMQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

Here is a link to the power controller I have decided on using, it has a built in fuse with reverse polarity protection.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CGXJSNY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

Can anybody confirm that this pump is the same thing as the sp20/20 and the p-38i? It doesn't say anything about being food grade.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWORE5A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'll only be using it for sparge water.

 

Under answered questions listed with the pump someone asked the same question and the reply was yes, it is food grade. Two people seem to be using it for brewing, but one said a piece of barley got in his and stopped the flow, so might keep that in mind. Found that in the reviews.
z

 

I got this one, seems tougher and not maybe not as brittle. Hook up a switch to control the flow rate and a off and on switch and presto a nice wort pump. Just thought I share my idea after I read the reviews on the one from amazon it seems like it won't last long.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=271550123277


Sent from DMAC's iPhone using Home Brew

 

Seems like a much better pump than I bought, wish I'd been patient before jumping on the one I found. I like the threads on this unit to. How long have you been using it?

 

Just noticed it is out of stock

 

I've been using it for about a month now. I got the idea from someone on this post. He had the other tan one and told me this one appeared better. Like I said hooked up a dimmer switch to control the flow rate and a switch to shut it off and on. Here is another seller. Same pump just a dollar more or so.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171421348963



Sent from DMAC's iPhone using Home Brew

 

Just search for the same title, there are other ones out there.

 

For anyone reading this, get the black one, not the tan one.

 

And that is the man that told me! Thanks BillNye


Sent from DMAC's iPhone using Home Brew

 

FWIW, I bought this one for about $18 a few months ago. Works perfectly and speed control is from a ball valve on the output. using it for sparging and anti-stratification in the HLT.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Centrifugal.../161090357324?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item2581bbc84c

 

Another question for those using the mini pumps, do you have yours connected onto the valve, or have a hose running from the valve to the pump. Seems as though it would pump more if connected close to the valve/source, but then would have to have longer wires from the pump to swithch.
z

 

I plan to run liquor through a hose.

 

I run mine from the diptube 1/2" coupler on the kettle, separated with a 4" nipple to avoid getting too hot from the burner. No need for extra camlocks, QD's or any other tubing. Keeps it simple.