Cheap compact wort pump

BargainFittings.com has all of the stuff. You can also get stuff from BrewersHardware.com too. I've been getting my stuff from Wayne (BF) for over a year now, fittings and valves, that is. Just personal preference.

Yeah, 1/2" silicone tubing, 1/2" cam-groove/camlock fittings. I spent about $100 on fittings and the valve. I upgraded multiple hoses to have the QD fittings. Two short (kettle to pump, pump to CFC) and one long (CFC to fermenter). I use the long one to transfer too.

Sure you can throttle the voltage down. I wanted the valve for that, though. Haven't had many issues with cavitation or bubbles, personally.

I got the type B camlocks and stretched the silicone tubing over them. Highest flow, no clamps needed.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=140

Those make up your hose ends, how ever many hoses you want, 2 type B's for each hose. Then you get a type A for either side of the pump (unless you get a valve, then it's type A on input, valve screws onto pump output, type F on output of valve).

So say 3 hoses, no valve on the pump, you're looking at 6 type B camlocks for hoses, 2 type B fittings for pump, and then type B's on the ends of whatever you want to transfer into/out of (ie. my CFC has a type B on either end.)

 

I like having a DC unit because some of those larger pumps are 220V and pump like 15 gallons per minute. I don't NEED that power, I enjoy brewing so I'm not looking to shorten my sessions that much. That means spending more time with the SWMBO haha.

so the camlock's fit well over the BSP with teflon tape? I thought about adding a ball valve to it on the output, but still deciding on that. Since it's for transfers, I'm done pumping when the liquids all gone, no need to really slow it down. Only the mash tun will be draining slowly, that's the only rate-dependent issue.

 

Like I said, zero leaks through a test session and then a 9.25G brew day. Just wrap the tape on liberally, but be gentle screwing on the fittings.

I'd recommend propping the pump up so the output is higher than the input, to help facilitate bubbles going to the output side. I just leaned it slightly elevated on a piece of wood. I didn't want to mount it because I was afraid I'd bang into it and break it, or the weight of the valve and fitting on the output might eventually be too much. I just get it out when I need it. It weighs just a few pounds with valve/fittings, so it's no big deal.

 

oh ok. I was planning on putting it into a toolbox for a portable pump system to store the hoses and AC/DC adapter.

 

Just ordered one of the P-38I off Ebay. Its not tan anymore it seems to be white, although its the same pump.

 

You can do that, just support the output side if you do end up putting a heavy valve on it, and make sure output is slightly higher than input (bubbles float up).

 

Thanks for the details. I will adjust my wish/shopping list accordingly. I assume QD means quick disconnect?

 

yeah, meaning the camlock stuff.

 

I recieved my little tan pump today (took 3 weeks from china to South Africa).

My main worry is sanitation. How do you clean your pumps? I want to use mine for whirlpooling only - that is why I'm worried ...

Thanks

 

Run boiling wort through it before flame out. I use mine for everything right now and love it. I'll be buying a second pump as well to use.

 

pump sanitizer through it I would guess.

 

+1 on boiling wort. Also pump cleanser through your lines with it.

 

As others have said you can put the cam locks straight on there if you use a few extra turns of Teflon. Yeah the price does eek up there after you put the fittings and a valve, but you would still have that with the topsflo, chugger, or march pumps. The topsflo one does have ss npt ends on it, but still has a plastic head. It does look like it has a bit sturdier construction though. I had thought long and hard about getting that one vs the tan ones, but for me it was just close enough in price that I would have gone on up to one of the big boys. I have been quite satisfied with its performance and price, almost a no-brainer. Someday I probably will have one of the big ones, but right now I have the ease of having multiple pumps for a fraction of the cost, the fittings I'll need anyway, and money left over to spend in other places.

As for cleaning, the first few times I used them everything looked pretty good after pumping warm water through them to rinse them off, as long as you do it right away of coarse. The day that I did 3 batches in a row, they were a little gunked up (so was everything else at that point though). I ran pbw through them for about 5-10 min each, then followed up with starsan. Was able to clean up all my hoses and vessels up by doing that too.

Has anyone been running pellet hops through these? I have a spider I put them in to keep them out of there, but it might be good for public knowledge if people that have been could share their results.

 

I brewed a batch with 2oz of pellet hops last weekend and recirc'd then pumped through my CFC, no issues. Even had valve just cracked open. I find the pellets pretty much disintegrate unless you're adding them DURING recirc, in which case I might just open the valve more, but I don't usually do whirlpool hop additions.

 

Have you tried using the pump to vorlauf as well? I thought it might be nice to hook it up for a few minutes to vorlauf then later to whirlpool in the brew kettle. Getting close to finishing all my shopping lists!

 

I haven't. I have slow runoff at times, so adding the pump I'm afraid might exacerbate this. I have a friend who runs the MLT into a grant, then to the pump...just have to throttle the pump down until the grant stays full all the time. I still vorlauf with gravity, though it does sound nice to do it with the pump. I'll think about it.

 

I vorlauf with the pump, works just fine. I usually do that at about half the pump's full rate, then fly sparge at just a trickle. If you run it full blast you have the possibility of compacting the grain bud too much. It should work fine for that, just remember sparging isn't a race. If you do it at a moderate pace you will get better efficiency and less stuck sparges, I have found that goes for batch and fly.

Was able to brew yesterday. This time I placed the pump below and ran a hose to it instead of having it mounted on the vessels. Worked like a charm and had no troubles with air bubbles. I just opened the valves and it pushed any air down and through to end of the out hose before flipping them on.

 

I get 80% no matter what, but sometimes either I'm impatient or the sparge get's so slow I call it stuck. One extra stir/vorlauf usually does trick.

 

Question for any of you using a "wall wart" transformer with the little tan pump: how hot does the transformer get?

I'm thinking of running power in to a plastic closed junction box with a switch mounted on it to run the pump. I'm concerned with heat build up in a closed, water proof box.

 

Just placed my order for the pump and lots of accessories like fittings and tubing from bargainfittings.com. Now off to look for a new grain mill :rockin:

 

Yeah I would like to add a ON/Off switch for my little tan pump. I was thinking about stopping by a local auto store to get a simple 12v switch. Hmm oh yeah I guess it would need to be to put into some kind of inclosure so not to get wet.

 

just get a switched outlet with some extension cord coming out of it. Plug the ext cord into your wall outlet, plug the pump into the switched outlet, and flip the switch. That's how my heating elements are done.

 

FWIW I love this little pump. The flow rate is slow, but it works. I had to recirc a bunch last night because I was still racking, then cleaning the fermenter I needed to use for the beer I just brewed, so I recirc'd through my CFC for quite a while, then into the FV at 72*. I also pumped about 13 gallons of cleaning water and fresh water through everything when all was said and done. For $20 this was a good investment.

 

Fellas,

I just ordered two of these. I'll let you know how they work out.



manufacturer's link:
http://www.seatechinc.com/Products/.../35_Series___High_Performance_Thermal_Plastic

retailer:
http://www.isopurewater.com/SeaTech...-12-CTS-X-12-NPS-Female-Connector_p_3385.html

 

I can't tell, is that for pex? Only rated to 180*F, though. No good for recirc during boil...What are you using it for?

 

CTS is copper tubing size.

I'm using it for HERMS mash recirculation, but it's 180*F at 100 PSI...I'd venture to guess it's probably still stable at boiling temps.

It's worth a try. I got two and another piece, and USPS first class shipping was just over $2!

 

so the CTS is like a sharkbite fitting of sorts? Just slide it on and voila?

 

one think i notice about this site and that is the more you read the more you buy

 

That's true...the vendors must LOVE HBT.

 

completely true, and i'd better stop reading again until the end of the month.

 

yup. I've lost many a dollar to HBT threads

 

Yes that is how they work, they also have an o ring inside to seal it.

 

I thought about these connectors also but everyone here goes with the camlocks. For about the same price I did too. Just courious how they work and maybe I will buy some for my prechiller

 

What sold me was that its true NPS thread and I need to go to copper too. (I'm a fan of plastics too)

 

I'm considering them bc I've head nothing but good things and they're much cheaper than QDs

 

Has anyone found the 1/2" BSP fittings for the beige pumps? I know 1/2" will work but it I would like to do it right if at all possible. All I find on google and all major sales sites is stuff in Europe. I am trying to use 2 pumps together and would like to just find a 1/2" BSP union or coupling or even 2 hose barb fittings, but I get nothing.

 

This looks like a great idea. I am going to order up a few of the pumps as well.

 

Pretty sure NPT fittings thread right on to BSP. UK guy told me

btw go cougs

 

Yeah 1/2" BSP and 1/2" NPT are compatible at low pressure. I've tried both on my pump and either is fine. Just put plenty of PTFE tape round the threads.

 

Go cougs indeed.

So nobody has found BSP fittings in the US? I know 1/2" NPT will work but "lots of thread tape" and low pressure wasn't exactly what I was going for.