Cheap 20 or 25 gallon stainless kettle...too good to be true?

[Joshuah57]

I just purchased the 80 quart for $70. The 100 quart is $90. I've been looking for a kettle to put an element in and I was thinking this could be perfect. I can update when I receive the kettle as to its quality and specifics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWQ4MH3/ref

 

[Joshuah57]

Quick update: The kettle is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow the 28th. I will post pictures and my impressions soon after. Patiently waiting....

 

[Beerfly]

I prefer the clad bottom kettles but if you are adding an electric element this looks perfect.

 

[Joshuah57]

The kettle was delivered today by FedEx. It was a retail box and it looked to be in good condition. As the pictures show, it was packaged fairly well and I found no dings or dents. Here is my overall impression so far:

Pros: Seems plenty sturdy for holding 20 gallons. The lid also seems sturdy and lays tight on the kettle. The lid has a small hole in it for venting steam. The lid also has a small piece on the bottom that can be used to hook it to the kettle. The kettle is not quite polished, but doesn't have a rough finish either. Should be easy to clean. The handles are both riveted and spot welded on. I am not worried about them coming off.

Cons: The kettle has these holder welded on the inside for holding the screen. Not too much of an issue though since they are high enough and I don't think the would be much in the way of anything. The only marking on the inside of the kettle is a line showing "Max Fill Line". Since I believe this is mainly for something like crawfish, the marking again is for use of the the screen. The spigot included is useless for brewing. It is a cast spigot and is very rough on the inside.

I am mixed on the threaded tube that is welded on the kettle. On the bright side, they cleaned up the weld quite nicely on the inside. I am not sure what exactly the size of thread they used though. My valve from my Anvil fermenter fit on it fine, but the spout would be pointing up. If I tried any 1/2" npt nipples, they would only go about a half turn. I'm not sure if it would be easier to just put the larger hole there for the element and just eliminate it altogether or maybe I could find just how I could get a valve on there (I'm not as knowledgeable about such things).

Overall impression: For $70, I think it is a great deal. I actually think they could easily sell these as cheap brew kettles if they would omit the strainer, remove the tabs on the inside, mark the inside with lines for gallons, and probably just remove the valve altogether. They could either sell it with no holes or just include a simple ball valve without the weld. In this case though, I believe I can make this work just fine .

 

[Beerfly]

As far as the threads, they are likely NPT (pipe threads) and there is no such thing as metric so likely the size you can use. Pipe threads start to bind as they are tightened, use some Teflon tape and tighten it up. The problem with converting it to the element opening is it looks too high from the bottom. Cap it off and maybe some day when you add a whirlpool you can use that port. Even as a port to drain, it looks too high unless you added a pick up tube. Add an element and later a steam slayer if you brew indoors and I think you will be quite happy. The welded tabs shouldn't be of any concern, they are out of the way. Here's a tip, add 1 gallon of water and measure with a ruler the height inside of the water, add another and measure again. That should tell you how many inches per gallon. Mine is 1 1/4 inch per gallon. Also, you can just add an exterior sight glass with your gallon marks, they are cheap and are used on the same port as your valve.

 

[Electricstache]

Hey, I'm interested in one of these, but had a quick question. Do you think those tabs would be easy to cut off and clean? They don't appear to be attached very well in the first place.

Also, have you figured out what threads are on the valve opening?

Thanks

 

[Bobby_M]

The thread is probably 1/2" BSPP. Its not metric but its not NPT either.

 

[Joshuah57]

The thread is probably 1/2" BSPP. Its not metric but its not NPT either.

I've tried a number of my different fittings, valves, etc. My 1/2" barbs don't seem to really work. I bought a 1/2" brass plug, but that didn't really fit either. Recently, I tried the thermometer from my SS Brewtech kettle since it has a male thread. It fit perfectly, but the face is upside down. Would they possibly use a BSPP thread on their thermometer? Being as this is 4" off the bottom of the kettle, I was thinking it wouldn't be a bad place for a thermometer or probe. I was even debating on getting the Brew Commander or Auber Cube to control the HLT and MT. I could also go cheap and get a dial thermometer (if there is one with an adjustable face) and a Blichmann Power Controller. I am currently using a Digiboil as the BK.

 

[Joshuah57]

Hey, I'm interested in one of these, but had a quick question. Do you think those tabs would be easy to cut off and clean? They don't appear to be attached very well in the first place.

Also, have you figured out what threads are on the valve opening?

Thanks

The tabs are spot welded on. I don't think it would be the easiest to cut them off cleanly. Again, this kettle would be great at this price even without the strainer, tabs, and spigot, and it would be cheaper for them to produce.

 

[fun4stuff]

It’s aluminum and not stainless, right?

 

[Joshuah57]

It’s aluminum and not stainless, right?

This actually is a stainless steel kettle. I haven't used it yet to attest to the stainless steel quality.

 

[Jayjay1976]

It’s aluminum and not stainless, right?

That looks like stainless to me, the color is all wrong for aluminum.

 

[Beerfly]

I purchased a similar one I got extremely cheap with a burner I sold to a buddy. Mine is obviously cheap imported junk as leaving water in it overnight discolors it dark. I'm only using it for an electric hot liquor tank but not impressed with the metal quality of the one I have.