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Changing beer lines in SS draft tower

Discussion in 'Equipment/Sanitation' started by MgMt_Home_Brew, Feb 6, 2010.

 

  1. #1
    MgMt_Home_Brew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    So I have this draft tower: http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/towers/doublefaucet/D4743DT___6844.shtml

    I haven't done a great job at cleaning the beer lines in the past and I would now like to replace them. I opened the top of the tower to get at the lines and noticed that I cannot get at the clamps holding the beer line onto the piece of SS tubing that angles down (I can post a pic tomorrow).

    So does anyone have any tips or tricks for changing these lines?

    Thanks
     
  2. #2
    philrose

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    I took the faucets off mine at one point to replace them with perlicks. thats also when I replaced the lines. If all else fails. just take them off. Its not hard to reassemble.
     
  3. #3
    philrose

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    just be careful not to twist the cheap metal straight off of the shank like I did. Rookie mistake.
     
  4. #4
    MgMt_Home_Brew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    How do you take it all apart? On the inside it looks somewhat like a typical shank which the large nut holding it on the tower. Did you get a wrench in there? Anything I had was too large to get in there and actually turn.

    This is what I am looking at...
    [​IMG]
     
  5. #5
    bendavanza

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    There are special wrenches for the towers, they are like a closed end wrench but with a side cut out. I made my own because I had a spare wrench handy and because I like DIY over $$$
    They look like this:
    [​IMG]
    But those are over $40.
    Mine looks like this:
    [​IMG]
    which Micromatic also sells for $36.75
    It's still a pain in the arse but without the tool you will just F things up. What is fun is when the nut or spacer to the assembly drops down and you have to go chase it. It really is challenging to hold all the parts together and in the right order when you reassemble, esp. if you add a 3rd shank to your towers like i did.
    The nuts are either 1" or 1 1/16" both are used so make sure you get/make the right one.
     
    augiedoggy likes this.
  6. #6
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    The faucet locking ring is the one that is smooth but has a few small holes in it. However, it might be easier to loosen the locknuts inside the tower if you hold on to the faucets for leverage.
     
  7. #7
    MgMt_Home_Brew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    I took the faucets off and it still seemed like I needed to loosen the locknuts on the inside.

    I guess I need to try and get the correct sized wrench and try to cut it. Correct me if I am wrong but the cut in the wrench just needs to be big enough to get the SS tube through?
     
  8. #8
    Bobby_M

    Vendor and Brewer  

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    You definitely need to remove the large locknuts from the shanks. I bet you could get it started with just the open ended wrench.
     
  9. #9
    philrose

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    Totally. I also pulled out the insulation to make it easier although that's probably a no brainer.

    Just be careful, twisting motion on my faucet was the thing that led to my cheap stock shank twisting off.
     
  10. #10
    MgMt_Home_Brew

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 6, 2010
    Cool thanks guys. I went out and bought a 1" and a 1 1/16" wrench and it looks like the 1" is the ticket. Im probably gona cut the wrench and go at it tonight so I can have clean lines for the game tomorrow.
     
  11. #11
    samc

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 7, 2010
    Tropidolaemus likes this.
  12. #12
    bendavanza

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Feb 7, 2010
    Yes, cutting the slot allows you to get the wrench past the tubing, and gives a little more clearance. I leave the faucets on like Bobby suggests because they give you something to hold onto for the other end of the shank.
     
  13. #13
    Mayday99

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 25, 2010
    Alright, I am feeling a little slow here. I was able to get the locknuts off the shank inside the tower, but I really don't know what to do now. The shank is still pretty firmly in the tower hole and I don't want to force it to much.

    My tower of course didn't come with any kind of directions so I am not sure quite what to do.

    Ah, never mind. Had to use my brand new perlick faucet as a handle to pull the shank out. Managed to not cause any major damage. The modified wrench from homebrewing adventures was helpful in getting the nuts off.

    Edit 2: Wow, I never thought taking the shanks out would be easier than putting them back in, holy crap. Might be something easy for you if your a microsurgeon, but that was rough! Ended up not using any clamps on the line (no room at all for the screw on clamps), hopefully it won't be a problem.

    Dual tower came with 5 foot lines, I wanted to start with 10 feet and work my way down if I needed. I will make sure to keep these lines nice and clean so I won't have to change them again for awhile.
     
  14. #14
    zman

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Mar 11, 2011
    What did you use to cut the wrench? Thing a Dremel would work?
     
  15. #15
    Flomaster

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 11, 2011
    dremel would work, but I used a 4.5" hand held angle grinder. faster, easier, and the flapper disk I have made quick work of the sharp corners.

    -=Jason=-
     
  16. #16
    zman

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Mar 11, 2011
  17. #17
    zman

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Mar 11, 2011
    About how big of a section do you cut off the wrench?
     
  18. #18
    Flomaster

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 11, 2011
    http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cus...rench-dremel-all-you-need-176265/#post2491675

    -=Jason=-
     
    Tropidolaemus likes this.
  19. #19
    Tropidolaemus

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 7, 2013
    In recently bought a used kegerator and feel the need to replace the line and was having a hard time trying to get the tower apart. Now I see clearly how I have to go about it. Thanks people, once again you've saved the day!
     
  20. #20
    TxBigHops

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Jul 31, 2018
    Great thread! I too just bought a used kegerator and will be needing this information this weekend. Thanks!
     
  21. #21
    logdrum

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jul 31, 2018
  22. #22
    Hwk-I-St8

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Jul 31, 2018
    Beware though. I bought that and neither end would fit my Danby kegerator. I ended up buying a box end wrench and cutting it myself.

    I'm planning to buy a SS dual faucet tower soon, so I'll eventually get to play with the even more limited space of two shanks (plus my cooling hose) in the tower.
     
  23. #23
    TxBigHops

    Supporting Member  

    Posted Aug 5, 2018
    Alright, I am cursing the name of the person who created this two tower setup!!! Didn't pay that much attention to how everything fit in there when I took it apart. I'm now reassembling, and can't see any way to get the two shanks in there! The two shank holes in the tower are directly lined up with each other, so the tubes both want to occupy the same bit of space. I assume there's a trick, but can't seem to figure it out. I've tried angling them both toward the outside of the tower, but no luck. Any tricks y'all could share would be greatly appreciated.
     
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