Can someone approve/kick me in the rear for this diagram?

I'm not an electrician, and regard it as magic most of the time...

I modified on of P-J's diagrams, I hope you don't mind PJ. Does this look like it will function?

EDIT: DIAGRAM CHANGE PLEASE SEE POST #17

 

dont see anything glaring. it should function as you want.

cant tell from the drawing but I assume you are using a standard SSR for the HLT and the SSVR for the BK?

 

Correct. I didn't know how to label the SSVR, but the SSR (on left) shows the information as found in PJ's original.

My biggest concern is the wiring of the SSVR. The diagram from Auberins looks like this.

Did I pull that off correctly for 220V?

 

I cant really see the picture! Sized too small..

 

that is right. as long as the RED wire off "AC" is one 120vac leg and the black wire off "AC" is the other leg, it will get 240 vac.

 

Thank you!! I was fighting to get this thing resized. It opens up huge in MSPaint!

 

Keep in mind that unlike a regular SSR which is controlled by a low voltage DC signal coming from the PID, SSVR control terminals carry the full voltage of the current side; 240 volts in this case. It's very low current, but still something to be aware of as you wire it up.

This next bit I have no proof of or explanation for -- but in my experience building a couple of SSVR based element controllers, they seem to get hotter than their normal SSR counterparts do for the same element. If you have a giant Kal style heatsink it's not worth considering -- but in my builds at least I found that the "standard" SSR heatsink you see all over wasn't cutting the mustard on the SSVRs. After an hour of boiling I measured the heatsink temp at 160F -- which is well past what I'm comfortable with on these parts -- so I strapped a low speed 80mm computer fan to it and now it stays under 105F.

Anyone else have similar experience with SSVRs ?

 

I used these on my SSRs, dont get much above ambiant.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00606OHQQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

Thanks for the heads up! I was debating on an oversized unit like Kal has, but now it's in the books!

 

Those are awesome Minbari, but how's it mount?

 

cut a round hole and use the 4 mount holes on the fan to mount it to your control panel.

to mount the SSRs, either drill and tap the heatsink or drill and use a self tapping screw. (what I did) Make sure you dont forget the heatsink compound! it is important.

 

Can anyone explain why PJ's diagrams feature a fuse after the emergency shut off?

 

Presumably because if your GFCI were to fail and leave the main circuit hot, it's better to have a fuse blow than for the small wires/parts associated with the e-stop to heat up and melt.

 

Nvm!

 

I was just looking over my diagram and was thinking, if the fuse blows, that kinda negates the action of the shutoff switch. Unless the GFCI tripped before the fuse popped...

Eh??

 

was posting in the wrong thread... (nvm=nevermind), but yes the gfi should trip before the fuse blow...

 

Here's the new diagram, I added a keyed switch and "hot panel" light (for lack of a better name), added some illuminated switches after the element selector for visual confirmation and redundant control. Whaddya think? The keyed switch is my biggest concern now.

Tried to make it bigger to... We'll see.