Building a Mash Tun. SS Braid or Manifold?

I posted a question about round or rectangular coolers. Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll be going with rectangular (48 or 62 qt.) based on cost. Need to start compiling my BOM and go to the hardware store.

After all the reading and video watching on making a Mash Tun, I see that some folks use a stainless steel braid or a build a manifold out of PVC or Copper with slits as the filter/strain device in the bottom.

I was going to go the SS braid route but wanted to understand if there was something I was missing with the manifold option.

Thoughts?

As always, I appreciate the help!

Chris

 

People are using both with great success. I went with a manifold because there is no chance it will collapse, but I use a round 10 gal cooler. From what I've seen, if you have the rectangular cooler with the channel that drains to the outlet, the braid works very well.

 

I use the braid. Its worked through a whole bunch of batches with no problems. Some people have issues with em, but I never have. The manifold is more time and money, but youre never going to have to worry about it collapsing and whatnot. A manifold is probably better for a rectangular cooler though, and braid for a round one.

 

Braid and batch sparge IMO. If you are a "heavy duty" type guy, go for the water heater supply, those things are beastly. Just be sure to get an actual stainless braid, some of the supply lines at the big box stores are polymer or plastic jacket that looks similar.

 

Coleman Extreme 52qt has been working awesome for me. I do 5 gallon batches.
Four all-grainbatches and not one stuck sparge using braided
hose. I highly recommend it.

 

I get all my grain from Brewmaster's Warehouse, and they use a pretty fine crush (I get 82% efficiency batch sparging). I got a stuck sparge every time I mashed using a purchased SS braid. PLUS I had to runoff very slowly or I would get a seriously stuck sparge. Then I made a manifold when I switched to mashing in a keggle. Now I can run off at lightning speed, never get a stuck sparge, and the wort still clears after about a half gallon vorlauf. That change alone took 45 minutes off my brewday.

There's one data point for ya.

 

I first used a stainless braid loop in a round cooler and batch sparged. Then I built basically the same MLT for a friend, but decided to try a manifold on his. Doing side-by-side sparges showed the manifold to have better efficiency.

 

I use a copper manifold in a stainless steel stock pot, drilled a hole in the stock and a gate valve, a little soldering and done. Why? because that is what I had in the my work shop. I had all of the stuff left over from re-plumbing projects. Simply bought the stock pot on amazon for 60 bucks... I like the manifold because I did not solder that I can take itt apart and clean it easily.

 

I would do a manifold. Most of what is sold a SS is not or only maybe coated. A braid will collapse under the weight of grain and then all you have is a screen that is the size of your valve coupling opening inside the MLT. Do a manifold and you will be greatfull that you spent the extra time and money

 

I have a braid right now. No chance of collapse. I used a piece of my old racking tube and put big notches in it and then pulled the braid over top. It's easier to take on and off like this too.

 

Thanks everyone!

 

CPVC. Simple. Effective. Cheap. I have a video posted on mine. I started 5g, then I upgraded to a 72 quart. kept some pieces of the CPVC for width, just used longer sides of CPVC for length.

slides right into the bulk head

 

I use a stainless steel braid, inside of a drilled 2 inch PVC pipe. The PVC filters all the big stuff and prevents the SS braid from being crushed. The braid filters most everything else. Works great for me.

 

I used to use a SS braid, but recently switched to a Kettle screen and I love it. The braid would float up and get caught while mashing in and the stirring in between. I have one both for my 10 gallon water cooler MLT and this 70 Igloo Extreme. The Kettle screen is rigid, screws right into the bulkhead and is easy to remove and clean.



You can get this at Austin Homebrew Supply


http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=12106

 

Most people will recommend what they use, because most people take pride in what they build. Do your research (as you are doing) and know whatever you choose is the best thing out there...until you decide to try something else. I've used the Bazooka screen in my rectangle Coleman extreme (w/drain troff) and it worked great.

+1 to CPVC. CPVC is designed for high temp and is cheaper than a braid or screen. I built a manifold for my tun and love it. I have mine dry fit so I can take it apart and clean it. When I put the strike water in, the joints expand and lock tight. I brew mostly high OG beers and average 80-85% eff. with the manifold in a rectangle mash tun cooler. I batch sparge and my tun drains fast enough that I use my pump to transfer.

 

That's funny. That kettle screen is exactly what I was using before I built my manifold--it gave me fits with stuck sparges. Oh well. I'm glad it works for some.

 

A manifold seems to be the way to go. Not sure why I went with the braid but it's working well for me so I will continue.

 

I use a braid in mine. I was kinda worried about it collapsing so I took a piece of copper wire wound it around a pencil to create a spiral and worked it inside the braid. I've had zero stuck sparges and efficiency in the 80's. I don't think you can really go wrong either way, they both will work.

 

I went the route of a SS braid. 5 batches in my 10 gallon round cooler and I can say I have had no issues with stuck sparges or it collapsing.

 

I Used a 24" Stainless braid bent into a circle and mounted to either side of a Brass T Similar to Beezy's set up (though in a in a 5.5 gallon Cylindrical igloo cooler). I have only done 3 AG batches so far but I have had no troubles so far with collapses or stuck sparges. I am getting about 78% efficiency.
How would a manifold be more efficient than this type of braid loop?

 

I use a copper manifold but that's mainly because I already knew how to sweat solder, had a band saw to cut the slits, etc. when I started this hobby. It works well and I have no reason to change. It seems the most trouble free option plus I fly sparge so I think it's the best option for me.

 

Glad this discussion is here as I am getting ready to make the jump to AG and this was a question that I couldnt seem to find consensus on. Thanks to all that responded. I will be taking the manifold route. Now 1 other question slits or holes? I have seen both not sure which is best.

 

I've been using a braid in both of my mash tuns for years with no issues.

 

Both

 

Depends on what tools you have. If you have a saw or grinder, I would recommend slits. They are just easier to make. If you only have a drill, then use holes. They both work just fine.

 

Being a pool guy, the manifold I am currently using is made from sand filter laterals. Despite the abundance of slots, stuck mashes were common. Once I drilled some holes,no problems. I have done 30+ batches with this tun no problems including Rye,wheat, oats, rice, graham crackers, pumpkin,etc.

 

I have found my braid slightly stretched and distressed on my last brew. It's only about the 5th one. I will continue to monitor, but I've taken to un stretching the hose before I mash. I wouldn't mind a proper manifold.

I'm also frustrated by how much fluid stays in the cooler, but dunno what to do about that yet.

 

I have a stainless braid with a coiled copper wire put through it to support it and keep it from getting smashed and/or disfigured too much. Has worked great for 4 AG brews now. Averaging over 75% in my 10 gallon tun.

 

Hi all

New to the site and I am just pumped up!

Ive been an extract brewer for years, finally am taking the dive into all grain. Finished building my manifold and cooler mash tun tonight. The liquid drains beautifully right now, lets see how it works with grain and heat.

Will be brewing all grain this weekend! Im thinking an alt for starters.

Obviously, Im new with the mashing, but the manifold was a great project and a nice sense of accomplishment for me!

 

hmm. wonder how a thin copper tube would work.

 

I love my SS braid with a SS spring in it. Only one stuck sparge but I was experimenting with a different braid that was much more tightly woven... so really, no stuck mashes and no complaints after ~25 batches with it.

Part #9663K27 at McMaster Carr for the spring, got the braid at the local hardware store.

 

I am telling you guys. It wasn't my idea but its genius. Just use some old racking tube. Cut out notches like every inch with a razor knife. Then pull the braid over top. It works really well. Batch sparging, it's perfect.

 

Manifold with CPVC. I love that I can break it down and wash it in about 30 seconds. No stuck sparges. 89% efficiency and crazy-fine crush.

 

I went with a CPVC manifold. Temp range is fine, cheap to build, and cleanup is a breeze. I didn't glue it, and I can take it apart after every brew to really flush/clean it out. I get it to stick together by just pushing them together nice and tight.

 

+1 Same here.

 

I use a SS water heater braid with no internal reinforcement. It works great. I plugged the end with a 3/4" SS bolt so that it doesn't float. I get ~85% efficiency with my system and BMW's crush.

 

Last batch beat up my SS braid Loop a little bit with the mash paddle. I didn't see any breaks but it is a bit deformed in places. In hind sight perhaps a copper manifold might have been a sturdier option, or perhaps less Violent mashing on my part.

 

I've been looking into this, I'm new to the home brewing circle but this has quickly become a wildfire passion! I've got a couple extract brews down and looking to broaden my horizons.

I went out and bought a 48qt rectangular cooler but it doesn't have a pour spout, I'll be needing to drill it out, any ideas on how to get a good seal on it? I also bought pvc pipping to build a manifold but i need to find a way to connect it to a ball valve with a proper seal and does it make a difference if I use a pvc valve or a brass valve?

 

Yup, get a bung and cram it in there, then get some small copper piping that will snugly fit inside the bung's hole and then attach a braid. I used threaded copper piping, got a T connector, threaded that on then threaded a 3" copper piping to either side, then attached a looped braid with hose clamps to either end of my T. Then use hose clamps to attach your silicone tubing to your exterior pipe. Works great and it's easily disassembled if necessary.