Brewer's Hardware 2" RIMS Tube

I just wanted to share some photos of my new RIMS tube. I hope it will help some people decide if the 1.5" or 2" version is right for them. I chose the 2" as I did not want to possibly boil in the tube. I am using a 1650 ulwd stainless element. I will be running this at 120v on a 20 a circuit.

I ordered this on friday, and it arrived sat afternoon. USPS sucks as far as tracking a package as I did not receive any updates until the package was delivered. Anyway, when I unpacked it, I was immediately impressed by it's massive size and it immense weight. This thing is beastly. It will easily look out of place in my current setup.

 

Looks good! I really like Brewers Hardware as their stuff is always top notch and the prices aren't too bad! Plus the shipping was super fast when I lived in So Cal.

 

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but as someone with lots of experience testing a RIMS tube for direct sparge water heating, a smaller tube would be less prone to local boiling than a larger one, because the flow is less turbulent. Also, a short element will create more heat locally which would increase probability of boiling.

That being said, with only a 1650W element, you would not be able to boil unless your flow is near standstill or your fluid temp is already near boiling.

 

Very nice I love the sight in the middle... I would however replace the element with a longer one if it were mine... the unit would work better with longer contact time and gentler direct heat contact. I currently use a 36" long 1800w cartridge element and its so clean directly after a brew there is nothing to wipe off the element.

Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/240-volt-55...852164?hash=item4af0a3e2c4:g:SJcAAOSwiLdV9mz4
would work better.... I believe Bobby also sells a comparable element.

 

If you have time I'd like to see pictures of how you set it up and use it with your equipment. I've never given these much thought until recently.

 

+1

I'd also be curious about cleanup effort. Right now I'm just using a single infusion MT... Is the RIMS setup worth it if you have the ability to keep temps stable (via MT insulation using a cooler or similar for example)?

 

+1. I am interested in moving to RIMS and would like to see the setup.

 

Thanks for all the questions. I will certainly be sharing my experience with building my RIMS set-up.

I currently brew on a Center of Gravity 3-tier brew stand using 2 megapot 1.2 15gal kettles for the mash tun and HLT. I use a Edelmetall Bru Kettle w/tangential inlet for my boil kettle, also 15gal.

I replaced the boil burner with a bayou classic bg10 high pressure burner to increase my temp rise from 1 degree per minute to 3 degrees per minute. I will replace the other two burners soon. Anyone looking into getting this brew stand should consider the price to be 650.00 instead of the 600.00 list price, as that is what replacing the burners will cost. Even after that, the stand is a great value, and super easy to use and set-up. it is also very well built. Very pleased with it so far.

The part i am not pleased with is more to do with my skill than equipment i am sure. It is starting to get cold here, really cold. I brew in my old drafty garage with the garage door open to avoid poisoning myself. This causes some severe problems with mash temp stabilization. I thought a RIMS system would would lend some consistency and automation to the process. I do not plan on heating strike water or boiling via the RIMS tube. I only want to use it to stabilize mash temps and raise temp for mash-out.

You can see the equipment that I am using in this thread. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=556246

I am expecting to have most of the parts to build my controller on weds. i am super nervous as i have little experience with electrical wiring. i have purchased the rims tube kit form ebrewsupply.
http://www.ebrew.supply/1-pid-20a-120v-rims-kit/

i also bought a PID and a timer from aubrins along with an enclosure. I am thinking i will need a few more 7/8" holes cut in the box.http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=501

As far as the size of the element, it is around 8.5" long. it is only being used to regulate mash temp, so I don't think a bigger element is needed. I will keep posting so those interested in my progress can stay tuned to this thread.

 

I also found that a smaller diameter tube helped increase the contact time of more of the liquid with the element and allow steady temp readings at the end vs constantly fluctuating temps... For this reason I use a 5/*" diameter cartridge heater in a 1" diameter stainless rims tube and I incorporated a camlock fitting at the end to remove the element to inspect. I get a pretty consistent 2-3 gallon per minute rise per minute on 5 gallons of liquid recirculating at 2.2gallons per minute this way...

I tried shorter elements and smaller elements and found they were not as effective in raising temps as quickly but works fine to maintain them.

The rims pictured in this thread is twice as long as it effectively need to be (8" of element in a huge 24" long heating tube)... I would think this may do more to hurt performance than help with such a small short element.

once you see how well electric works and become more comfortable with it you may very well abandon propane all together and go full electric and brew indoors..

 

Well said! It's amazing how hard things with propane become so much easier to control (and speed up) with electric! Not to mention the convenience of brewing indoors...

 

and cheaper! it costs me less than a dollar in electricity to brew a batch of beer vs what $3-4 in propane? its adds up.

 

I'm not sure how long the OP's heating element is, but you do realize that the scale for the one you sent the link for is metric? It's only just over 14 inches long. That's a good price though for that element. How long have you been using it?

 

The OPs element is shown next to a measuring tape and the element is only 8 inches long... so 14" is quite an improvement. Bobby also sells an almost identically sized element here https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm
I do not have one from that ebay seller but other here do and reported good results.
I use ta 36" long cartridge heater.

 

Yes, I see the tape measure shot now. My bad there. So, where do you get a 36inch long heating element?

 

ebay...just search for "cartridge heater" . heres a link to the one I used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAST-HEAT-C...852374?hash=item5b090cb7d6:g:2GgAAMXQRPRTG57U

heres a pic of my old shorter 24" element slightly pulled apart so you can see how it fits...
and a newer pic of the longer one..
one of these elements would work in the OP's rims as well but the larger diameter may not work in its favor...
I used stainless pipe and camlocks.

Rather than Hijack and take the OP's thread off topic I suggest asking any further questions on my setup in my build thread below in my signature.

 

I've gotten my parts earlier this week, and after some headaches getting getting receptacles to fit, I feel like I am ready to start wiring this thing up.

A quest have is this. You may notice that this is a 20a system for a rims tube. I have installed a 4 wire receptacle that I hope to use as a 3 wire connection. Can I use only the ground, neutral , and only one hot for the receptacle if the female plug end is wired the same. I am ultimately plugging this into a 3 prong gfci outlet on a 20a circuit.

Here are some pics. The diagram can be found at ebrewsupply.com listed as the 20a rims diy kit.'

 

Yes if your wiring for 120v you can wire it as you described. Your thread inspired me to order a sight glass for my rims as well BTW.

 

it is pretty nice looking, plus I can see the wort start to clear as the mash progresses.

 

Okay. I've got the next two days off work. I hope to be able to complete the panel. I just begun the wiring, and have noticed that the diagram from Ebrewsupply, goes not show a ground for the power supply recepticle. I see that it does show ground coming from the element receptical as well as the two pump recepticals. From each receptical, it goes to one of the 3 terminal blocks. Then one ground wire runs to the screw inside the control box housing.

Looking at the picture above containing my layout, should i bypass the ground block and go straight to the ground screw, or should I make a run to the block, and then to the screw ?

Also, the diagram shows 3 green into the bottom of block, and one comming out of the center of the grounding block. Since theese are all tied together, does it not matter where I lead into, as long as one goes to the ground screw in the box ?