Brew-pot Drill Help

I just spent a half hour attempting to drill a hole in my brew-pot and barely made a dent. I kept it well oiled and the drill speed on low. Any suggestions on who may provide drilling services? Can I go to Lowes or Home Depot? Do welders do this type of stuff? Thanks!

 

Make a small dent where you want to drill with a center punch or a screw driver or something pointy. Use a cobalt bit to make a small hole, maybe 3/8" or so. Then use a step bit to finish the hole to the proper size.

That's the easiest way I have found to do it using a handheld drill.

 

I was using a vanadium bit. Is that where I went wrong?

 

also don't just go strait in, slightly angle left and right back and fourth to keep the bit from polishing the hole, stop at every step and cool down the bit with a glass of water

 

I believe that your bit would be incorrect for drilling through stainless steel. And I misspoke earlier, I just looked and I used a cobalt bit not s carbide. I am going to edit my post above just so that incorrect advice is not floating on the Internet.

I don't think your bit will get it done. The trick is to get the hole a bit started so that the sode edge of the bit is cutting the metal (as opposed to the point just spinning). That's why angling the bit at the beginning helps, just like denting it. You have to get the hole started without heating it too much, because the stainless will begin to "work harden" if it gets too hot.

 

Thanks for the update. Makes sense as to why I wasn't making progress.

 

your local harbor freight has a cheap one too
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/stepbitlg.htm

 

I used the one from harbor freight, fwiw. That one from brew hardware looks equivalent and is a fair price. I chose to use the cobalt bit first to make a small hole because I wasn't getting it done with the step bit directly, but I am sure it's possible.

If you were local I would just throw it on my Delta drill press and make life easy, but alas, you are not. Just be patient, and watch a YouTube video.

 

I should have posted this before but I always use a carbide 1/8" bit to center the hole then a 3/8" bit before the step bit

 

It's probably best to move your centerpoint off to the side by 1/4" now and use a 1/8" bit to make a starter hole. 99% of the time I use Tungsten Carbide hole saws in the size I need. You'd be amazed how quickly I can put a clean 1-1/4" hole in a pot with these things. I never timed it but between the pilot hole and quick deburr, I think it takes 20 seconds.

 

YeastMode nailed it.

One thing to note about step bits is that they are not really designed to make the initial hole. They are designed to scrape away little by little at each step. Start it with a 1/8" cobalt bit. It's not worth buying the cheaper bit if you're drilling stainless.

Also the harbor freight step bits (and similar) are junk. If you need to make a single hole you'll probably get there, but if you need to do more than 1 you want to get the cobalt one. Yes it's crazy expensive but you only need 1.

Bobby's recommendation is the best if you only have one size hole and have several of the same size. Hole saws make quick, clean, and accurate cuts, but are a little pricey, especially when you go above 1".

 

Harbor Freight Step Bits- awesome for $8.95 for three sizes. They don't last that long but one bit will get you at least 5-6 holes in your stainless kettles, especially if you start out with the smaller bits and work you way up. Keep them well oiled!

 

fwiw, I pulled these from my original 10g build archives...

My humble shop is fairly well equipped so the only new tool in the bunch was the Greenlee punch...


Target marked after much fussing about...


Smacked the target with a sharp center-punch...


Initial attack was with a well-oiled 3/16" cobalt bit run super-slow.
Took under 30 seconds...


Next up is the step bit. Took the hole to 7/16"d.


Greenlee punch assembled through pilot hole.
I oriented the cutters so they were up/down with the kettle standing on its base...


Wicked clean hole in seconds!


Gave the hole a light sanding with some virgin emery cloth, then assembled the valve and fittings...


Et voila!


Repeat numerous times...

Cheers!

 

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467325135.422474.jpg Progress! The steppes bit is a bitch though.

 

The cheap ones dull quickly. First cut goes quickly. 2nd one slow and then who knows if at all.

 

Yeah. Exactly what happened. Guess I have to spend $30+ on a new one.

 

I cut 3 holes with my cheapo Harbor Freight step bit. I didn't notice any difference from first hole to third. I imagine I could easily do 3-4 more holes for the $6 or $8 that I spent.

If you don't expect to drill a lot of holes it would probably pay to buy more than one cheapo bit rather than spending a lot of $$ on a really good bit.

 

I used this step bit for $9.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ2UOY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

just my 2 cents
its not worth spending hundreds of dollars just for one hole so that bit will work if used right, call it a throw away bit. I have that exact one...first a slow rpm drill with lots of torque, keep it cool meaning stop at every step, don't rush, it isn't wood, wiggle it as your cutting the next step, don't press too hard, spin it in reverse to deburr it, you can ruin the bit easy if you spin and polish the hole

 

I still use the same HF bit after cutting two holes in my pots and then a hole in a stainless sink. But, if you don't hold the drill/bit straight to the hole and let it rip to one side, it will kinda "screw" into the hole and ruin the bit and basically mar the cutting edge.

That's why as many said above, your best bet is to drill a pilot hole before you use a step bit.

 

I started today with a 3/8 cobald bit and it went though it like butter. The stepped bit didn't make it past the third step after about 20 minutes and I kept the bit lubricated.

 

How fast are you running the drill? The small steps you can run pretty fast. As it gets bigger you need to slow down.

How much pressure are you applying? You need to push on it a bit (maybe 5lbs?).

 

Decent pressure. I'll give it another shot tomorrow. Just can't seem to get past 5/8 and need to get to 13/16. See the bit I'm using below. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467341915.143949.jpg

 

Judging from the bare spot at the 5/8" step, you might have cooked the bit. I've drilled 3 holes with my Harbor Freight step bit and it shows no signs of slowing down. But it doesn't have any silver steps like that.

 

That's what she said goldmine:

" straight to the hole and let it rip to one side.."

"drill a pilot hole before you use a step bit."

"As it gets bigger you need to slow down."

" You need to push on it a bit"

"wiggle it as your cutting the next step, don't press too hard"

"a lot of holes it would probably pay to buy more than one cheap"

"you can ruin the bit easy if you spin and polish the hole"

"You'd be amazed how quickly I can put a clean... hole in a ... with these things. I never timed it but between the pilot hole and quick deburr, I think it takes 20 seconds."

"finish the hole to the proper size."

"You have to get the hole started without heating it too much, because ... will begin to "work harden" if it gets too hot."

" kept it well oiled and the.. speed on low"

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Greenlee-3-16-in-Step-Drill-Bit/3122177

 

Hallelujah. The bit must have been fried at the 5/8 notch. Luckily I had another step bit. Anyone want an auto siphon? View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467381402.277824.jpg

 

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467385481.504833.jpg Final product with side pickup
Tube

 

I have that bit and I also have used plenty of the gold colored Chinese bits and I estimate that the Greenlee lasted for about 4-5x the number of holes. It just happens to work out that China bits are 1/5th of the price of the greenlee. I will say that by the time the Greenlee is on its 40th hole, I would actually rather have a brand new China bit if that makes sense.


Drilling stainless without smoking bits is an acquired skill. I can't emphasize enough how much pressure needs to be applied once the hole size gets over 1/2". I use at least 60 pounds of downward force and a cordless drill on the slow/high torque setting.

 

I agree. I used a Harbor Freight step bit to install your Spin Cycle and Weldless probe fittings, the hardest part for me was actually drilling the pilot hole in my 10G Tall Boy kettle. Once I got the pilot hole, the step bit cut the hole relatively easy.