Big Air Pocket right at faucet causing problems??

So I"ve got my first keg hooked up on my system and I'm having the usual foamy pour problems. I have my pressure set at just over 10psi with 8' of line coming off the keg. My temperature is set for my keezer at 36 degrees.

I've included pictures.....I have a big air gap the forms right at the top of the line and right after i pour you see the air bubbles starting to rush back up to the top so the air bubble can form again. Does anyone know what this is a direct result of?? Not enough pressure?? Too much pressure??

 

Yeah, looks like you have CO2 coming out in the line. What size line is that, 3/16" or 1/4" ID?

 

it's a 3/16 ID

The slack on my beer line was hanging lower than the tap on the keg, way lower. Coiling it up right at the tap cleared the air gap at the top of line.

I still have a ton of foam coming out when I pour and I cant seem to solve it. Can you get excess foam from having too long of line?

 

Sounds like the shanks are getting warm in between pours. Does the foam subside after a few seconds of pouring?

 

How did you carb your beer? It could be your psi is to low to keep the co2 from coming out of solution, or a bad O ring on the dip tube. Too long of line will not cause foam only a slow pour.

 

somewhat. but it'll do the same thing again if i grab another glass immediately after pouring the first.

 

this is a commercial keg of yuengling, long story short, the beer had gone flat in the keg. I had tried to recarbonate it, I set the carb at 30psi for 24 hours while intermittently rocking the keg from time to time. I then dropped the psi down 10 and bled the excess CO2 out of the keg. I let it sit for several days and here we are

 

Ok so I did some further investigating and it DOES clear up after those first few seconds . I just filled a mug up and 3/4 full of foam with the beer completely clearing up right at the latter part of the pour, then filled up another right glass after and I got a perfect pour.

is there any way to remedy this problem of the shank being a bit warmer than the keezer? I already have small fans pulling air from the keezer into the faucet tower

 

Yuengling is carbed to 2.6 volumes so at 36 degrees psi should be 11 psi. To help with your shanks you could change your fan to a tower cooler like this.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGBTZDI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

I have a fan inside a project box with a tube blowing the air up into tower. If the house is warm I'll have a little bit of foaming but nothing like it was. Also if you have a chill plate inside the keezer you can position the fan as close to the chill plate so it's pulling the coldest air possible.