Best tc rims tube on the market

So I see all the different places that have all the tri-clover complete rims tube set up but then I read a few different places how some of them aren't that good or the heating element adapter wasn't that great.

So the question I have is which place has The best quality rims to set up?

 

I could not find any set up the way I wanted, so I collected parts and did it my way. It was substantially cheaper than most kits.

 

Yeah the price would certainly be less if I did it that way but I'm looking to use the tri-clamps, And plus I just like how the other one looks ha

 

The Brewhardware camlock one works well as far as the elements and temperature probe fittings go. I assume that the all triclover one would be equally good.

 

they are usually made of 2 offset triclover tees... before people started selling them as rims tubes they were fairly cheap but these day they are all just about priced equally and I believe many are selling the same ones. I am planning to make a large rims with tc tees and sections of tc pipe with a site glass in the middle for my nano setup... the 1" stainless pipe setup works great in my home brewery but admittedly is not as attractive looking.

 

Essentially this is what I'm goin for. The main concern was the tc fitting for the element as I have seen a couple people here say that the ones they had seemed flimsy ish and were looking for a better one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rims tube with sight glass&tbm=isch

 

Well looking quickly at the search you provided revealed an image of the Nor Cal one which a very heavy duty element holder that will take a lot of abuse... Maybe look at that one? the website "norcalbrewingsolutions.com" is in the image name..

 

Augiedoggy, are you still planning on using the long cartridge heater for the RIMS element, or have you come up with something else? I think your setup is pretty ingenious, and the long contact time with the heater is something I'm looking to duplicate. Just curious if you still like that setup...

I like the look of the ones at Brewers Hardware because of the ability to orient the inlet and outlet in any direction - pointing the inlet downwards will help with draining after a brew day. Tri-clamp sure looks slick, and it's easy to add length or sight glasses if you want that. Looks like Norcals are similar.

This has always been the big issue with electric brewing - covering the end of the heating element. I really like the heating elements with the tri-clamp and L6-30 prongs on the end. Eliminates the need for an element cover/housing and makes it easy to take apart. Unfortunately, I can't find one as a straight element. Ripple seems to be what's out there right now. Bobby, if you're reading this: get a 5500W LWD straight heating element with tri-clamp connection and you've got at least one sale! Better yet, get a really long cartridge heater like Augiedoggy, and put the L6-30 prongs with TC fitting on it.

 

Yes I love it,
Im actually going to use 2 36" long 1800w elements in the same rims by having it mounted in an "S" pattern more or less doubling the length and contact time.
This is going to be used on a 3 bbl system (I'm opening a nano/micro brewery) to maintain temps so the jury still out on how effective it will be... The thing is the single 1800w element stays off more than its on when maintaining temps with my current setup and 11 gallons so im hoping the larger thermal mass and doubled length can make up for the faster flow I will be utilizing.
Well see... Theres always bigger elements. the pipe rims works great and its easy to pull apart with the large camlock but I am going TC in the nano for uniformity and sanitary reasons.

I used the graph feature in brucontrol to tune my pid values on my last kettle sour and I have to say im really impressed with both the software and the rims performance. I had 1.7degree fluctuations throughout the remainder of the mash after doing so which I can certainly tune in to be tighter but I can live with that..

 

Excellent. Not trying to hijack the OP's thread, but that's all great to hear!

I've also found that you really don't need much power for RIMS. Step mashing speed is the only thing you really need the power for; maintaining mash temps requires very little power, especially if you have your mash tun insulated.