American IPA Bee Cave Brewery IPA

The Warrior's I got are listed at 18.4%.

I'm amazed at how quickly the hop intensity has faded. At two weeks in the bottle the aroma and bitterness hit hard, but now, it's smoother and less aroma. I kind of liked it more earlier, but I'm a hophead I guess.

 

I brewed this beer with PM earlier this year... it is outstanding..
I shared among friends. All of them love the balance of hop, sweetness, and alcohol.
I'm going to modify the recipe to make a imperial version:


Imperial IPA (similar to Stone Ruination)

Type: Partial Mash
Date: 6/14/2009
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.91 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
2.50 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 17.24 %
10.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 68.97 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.90 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 6.90 %
1.60 oz Centennial [9.10 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 62.3 IBU ***
0.50 oz Warrior [15.80 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 33.8 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [9.10 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [9.10 %] (15 min) Hops 9.4 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.10 %] (5 min) Hops 5.9 IBU

*** - I saved my 5 minutes hop from previous brew for bittering purpose.

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.075 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.076 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.019 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.018 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.27 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 7.59 %
Bitterness: 116.0 IBU Calories: 347 cal/pint
Est Color: 7.5 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 12.00 lb
Sparge Water: 4.85 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Step Time Name Description Step Temp
90 min Mash In Add 15.00 qt of water at 161.4 F 150.0 F



Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 4.2 oz Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 60.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 52.0 F


Using S04 yeast cake from previous brew (orange cascade PA)...
I'm intending to mash at 150F to get a drier taste.. I think sweet IPA makes me sick.
Lots of warning on S04... I think I'll keep it cool during first couple of days to reduce bubblegum estery flavor.
Let me know what you think...

 

I just made this last night with wort I got from a microbrewery and my O.G. was 1.075. I didn't up any of the hops like "undallas" did for his Imperial IPA. Am I going to still have an IPA? When do I dry hop this, after one week two weeks? Should I up the dry hops amount?

 

Imperial IPA like what undallas made means that you go over the top and try to pack as much AAs in the beer as possible. 100+ IBUs is crazy! You have to up the malt just to make it tolerable to drink. Otherwise your face will implode.

Sounds like you'll do just fine to me. Worse case scenario is that you made a darn fine pale ale, but I don't think that will be the end product for you.

 

I made this with my own alterations to it. I used Amarillo because the LHBS was all out of Centennial, I also toned down the AA's slightly and cranked the body a little by using WLP051. My end product should be about 50 IBUs, 6.7% ABV and FG of 1.018.

I tasted a sample at bottling time. Holy citrus! But wow, so good! I don't think I've ever tasted a beer this good at bottling.

Thanks man.

 

My IIPA has been sitting in primary for 6 weeks now....
I didn't have temp control, so it smells like bubble gum at first (S04 yeast).
I haven't smell it lately, but I'll rack it this weekend to secondary for another month + 1 week dry hop before I bottle it.
This should turn out pretty good.

 

In the directions it says to ferment for 10 days then keg, but it also says to dry hop. how long should I dry hop? When you dry hop do you have to keg it right after or can I leave it on the hop to age? Should I age it then dry hop?

 

I now dry hop for 10 days and then remove the hops from the keg.

 

I just started drinking my third batch of this. My first two sucked because of my well water and because of a change in the recipe a local brewer suggested. Now that I got my water straightened out with gypsum and since I went back to the original recipe I'm finally drinking a great IPA. This is easily the best IPA I have made yet. If you like a nice citrucy IPA you need to make this beer. I'm going to start doing 10 gallon batches of it and I'm keeping this one on tap from now on.

 

I have nugget hops growing in my back yard. Any thoughts on subsituting them for the Amarillos? (since I cant get centennials here) It would be nice to use the hops from my yard.

 

To simcoe or not to simcoe.........?
I have the ingredients as listed to brew this weekend using amarillo instead of centenial, but I also have an extra ounce of simcoe. IPA is by far my favorite style (Surly Furious clone is the most recent tasty favorite,) I love the citrus/orangy and floral notes. So far all of my IPAs have been created with a mixture of aroma/flavor/dry hops. I want to try this as is, with the single hop to help improve my palette and get a better understanding of a single hop (excluding the bittering addition) but GOD it is hard to not add the simcoe. Those bags are like green pellet crack. (you know, just a half ounce at 20 or 5 min, then what would a little hurt in the dry hop, its already open, go ahead use it...)
Can somebody please convence me just to brew it as is, to back away from the additional hops, or is there never an excuse not to add available IBUs.
thanks,
jason

 

I found a bomber of this in the back of the fridge last night that I had forgotten about. Been in there for about three months. Was crystal clear and while the hop bitterness and aroma had decreased, the overall beer really smoothed out. It was a totally different beer than it was young and quite enjoyable.

 

No modification to the recipe.

 

Thanks Mike, I needed that.
jason

 

I drank two on Saturday - one week in the bottle. Its tasting excellent. Very strong fruity / citrus nose which I assume will mellow with a couple more weeks in the bottle. Ive never tasted anything like it - you get this delicious fruity smell and then a whack of bitterness in the taste. I can't wait to taste it in another couple of weeks.

 

I made this with 6 gal of free MO wort that I got from the owner of the local microbrewery. I steeped the other grains. This is the best beer I have made so far. I'm only 2 weeks in the bottle but it is great. I will make this again and again and again. I just bought a pound of centennial pellets so I will have most of the hops for it.

 

I got exactly 3 oz of Centennial Hops from my first year plants!!! Just got the ingredients in for this and will brew it soon. This will be my second batch of the Bee Cave IPA. My first one was my first all grain and it turned out a little dry. Now that I have my equip figured out and some home grown hops, I can't wait to pour this one again!!!!! Thanks EdWort!!!

 

Mine is just over three weeks in the bottle. I can honestly say, without exageration, that this is the nicest beer Ive ever had the privledge of drinking - no, really !
Im temped to try the same recipe with EKG instead of cascade for bittering and aroma (after Ive made another batch of Bee Cave ).
Has anyone tried an IPA like this ?
What are EKG characteristics ?

 

Im brewing up 10-11 gal of this bad boy on Monday....

I am thinking of adding more hops??? maybe a 1/2 ounce to an ounce of cascade at 45 and 30?? depending on IBU's....and I am definitely dry hopping with amarillo....cant wait!!!

my mouth is watering at this very moment!!!

 

Brewing today...10gallons....ended up throwing in an extra lb of vienna just for higher gravity and 4oz of cascade...adding 1oz increments at 30, 20, 15 and 5. Split up the centennials to add 1oz with each cascade addition....also threw in some gypsum to hopefully assist in a nice hop flavor. It made my IBU's high (108) but what the heck...I like hoppy beers!!! Ill let ya know how it turns out!!

 

My friend and I want to brew a 10 gal of this to split. Would it be ok to just double all the ingredients to make up the 10 gal batch?

 

without a doubt...exactly what I did. Just notice that the batch calls for 5.5 gallons so if you go all the way to ten you will come out with a higher OG. I hit just under ten because evaporation went crazy thi brew....but oh well....bubbling away beautifuly...

Silly me...I did forget the OG reading tho.....oh well....

 

I did this brew today, and ended up with 7.1 gallons before the boil and an SG of 1.056. Then after the boil, I had 5 gallons (2.1 gal boil off, wowzers) and an OG of 1.082 @74^F. This is going to be a high ABV beer!

 

so after having my variation of this brew, i am thoroughly impressed. it is absolutely delicious. i dry hopped with two ounces of 8% AA centennial for 2 weeks in my secondary, after 1 week in primary. after after bottle conditioning for about 3 weeks it has turned out impressively clear. im being patient with this one.

on saturday i plan on brewing this same one but with double the IBUs.

HOP SCHEDULE:

2 oz magnum (14%AA) @ 60min
1 oz simcoe (12%AA) @ 20min
1 oz simcoe (12%AA) @ 15min
1 oz simcoe (12%AA) @ 10min
1 oz simcoe (12%AA) @ 5min

=155 IBUs

and 2 oz of simcoe in secondary for one week

this is great stuff, i just wanted it more HOPPY

 

After one week of dry hopping with amarillo, this beer is absolutely amazing!! I love it!! As I said before I tweeked the recipe a lil and added IBU's but it is spectacular!! Thanks Ed!!:rockin:

 

I took some to a homebrew club meeting last night - everyone loved it.

 

I am going to do the extract version of this recipe and was playing around with it in beersmith.

I know EdWort said to use 6.6 lbs LME but when I just did straight convert from his AG version it came out to be something like 9.5 lbs LME. Definitely not saying he is wrong since it's his recipe but I was just wondering. Don't want to have a too low OG for an IPA and don't want to buy another extract can if I don't have to.

In addition I plan on adding 1.5 lbs of Munich extract to replace the Munich grains.

Thanks!

 

I brewed this (AG) on October 3rd. My efficiency sucked a bit so my SG was 10 points low. It spent 27 days in primary and I dry hopped it on day 14 with a half ounce of Amarillo 8.5% hops because that's what I had in my fridge. It's now over two weeks in the bottle and it's amazing. Probably the best I've ever brewed in the short time I've been doing this.

I think if I brew this again I'm going to double up the bittering hops and try to get the SG substantially higher as well.

 

I brewed this about 4 weeks ago and so far the samples haven't been very good. I did use Safale-04 instead of -05 because the buddy I was brewing with already had some. We did a starter so we pitched enough. We haven't kegged it yet because we're hoping that the bubblegummy, clovery, estery flavor and aroma will dissipate. It's fairly subtle but enough present for a distinguishing palate to notice. I know that flavor/aroma is typical in some European beer but I don't like it. I like a clean finish. The other thing is that it's not very bitter or hoppy smelling. We brewed a 10 gal batch and basically doubled the hop bill. We did use Magnum instead of Warrior @ 60 I think because our LHBS didn't have Warrior. We used Centennial for the rest. It fermented for about 14 days, then we dry-hopped it for another 2 weeks. Last night we racked to a tertiary carboy to see if those estery characteristics will go away. We'll give it another couple weeks and then hopefully keg it and add some more dry hops.

Any ideas on what might of happened? Is it just the yeast? Why not very hoppy?

thanks

 

I'm glad to see this. I brewed 5g a few days ago and I only had 64% eff, which is a bummer b/c I average in the mid-70s. So hopefully everything will turn out the same.

 

A few Q's:
(1) what temp did you ferment it at? (higher temps = more esters).
(2) were the AA's for your hop substitutions the same as the OP?

+ Yes, the yeast substitution probably accounts for some of the difference.

 

Question:

Due to a shipping issue: I might not have 2oz of Centennial on brew day to add at 15min and 5min... if I only had 1oz (.5 and .5) ... then added an extra ounce of hops for dry hopping.. (ie. 2oz) ... how will this effect the final product??

I could get another ounce (LHBS) - but I already have it on order... just won't get here until Monday or later, and I would like to brew this weekend.

 

Midfielder,

We fermented at around 65*F in
my buddy's basement. It may of been even a couple degrees cooler at times. As for the aa of the hops I can't answer because I just used whatever my LHBS had for each variety. I just talked to by friend last night about it cause we racked it to a tertiary for additional conditioning. It's been in those for 1.5 weeks now and he said only a subtle reduction in the estery aroma and flavor. We've decided to keg it and put some hops in the keg and drink it up. We've written it off at this point as a miss and I'm going to try again here in a couple weeks but use the S-05 yeast this time. I just don't care for S-04 much.

 

Having another bottle of this tonight, now 4 weeks in the bottle. Truly amazing beer. I simply cannot find a flaw in it and it's only improved since my first tasting. Wish I had more left; this one's been in high demand and ran out quickly.

I've decided to use this recipe as a basis for an Imperial IPA that I intend to brew tomorrow. I basically upped the amount of 2-row, added 1 lb of wheat, and doubled the first hop addition. Should come out to nearly 10% and be bitter as hell. Because it should be just about ready to drink on New Years, I'm going to call it the "Good Riddance Imperial IPA" in honor of the end of the decade 2000-2009 which was, in my opinion, the worst decade the US has seen since the end of WWII.

 

Brewed this yesterday. Had a hard time hitting my temps in the MLT.. I was closer to 152 for the 90... and ended up added more hot water to get the temp up... I think it was because the grain was in the garage a couple nights and the grain temp was lower than the 60 degree normal.... but just guessing cause I didn't test beforehand. To compensate a bit, I batch sparged a bit longer. I still hit the OG of 1.063.

I made a slight change and added Amarillo hops (.5 oz) each at 15 and 5 mins... but I am going to up the dry hops to 1.5 or 2 oz of Centennial .... the hops aroma was great... but my IBU will be closer to 65ish.

 

I've made about 4 batches of this recipe but substituting Columbus hops for the Warrior. It's a favorite for me and several friends. Someday I might try the Warrior but I would highly recommend Columbus as a substitute.

 

I brewed the extract version of this on Christmas, finishing up at about 10PM pitching the Safale-05 but I still do not have any action in the airlock 38 hrs later and am wondering about pitching another package. Can anyone help me decided what to do? RDWHAHB or pitch some more?

I'm using a 7 gal glass carboy for a 5.5 gal batch and using a stopper for the first time instead of the usual hood/cap. Assuming I may possible have a slight leak (although doubtful) when and what should I be seeing to confirm fermentation is actually going on? I have no krausen yet, do not see any thing circulating, and do not see any bubbles. It has been sitting at around 65-68F. This is only my 6th brew so although I'm not in a panic or too worried, I'm just curious if adding a new pack of yeast might help.

TIA!

 

Would you guys recommend light DME or extra light?

EDIT: I saw that somebody earlier used extra light.

Do you guys think this would work? I haven't don't a partial mash before. But I only have a 5 gal MLT.

1# extra light DME
9.33# Pale
1# Munich
12oz Crystal 60 L

 

I pulled a bottle of this out of storage and put it in the fridge a couple of nights ago. At four weeks in the bottle it was amazing, at four MONTHS in the bottle it's not drinkable. Has an unpleasant soapy aftertaste that I don't remember being there before. Odd.

 

thanks ed, I plan to brew 10 gallons of this in a week... I've got 2 oz of centennial, but I'm sitting on over a pound of cascade (8.7%) and a pound of ahtanum (6%) hops I'd like to use up..

i know its not the same beer if i sub out, but if i were to try i have no idea which to use for which... what would be the best way to line em up?

maybe:
cascade bitter ~50 IBU
ahtanum flavor ~15-20 IBU
cascade aroma 10 IBU
centennial dry

any other thoughts?