American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

I tried this one today.....went pretty smoothly, except I just did a single mash and single sparge....Got about 6 gals. It looks pretty nice, hope it turns out good.

 

Just kegged 5 gallons.....can't wait for it to carb!

 

Where is everyone getting the ingredients for this one? I am looking online and cant seem to find all the ingredients in one place. Someone help.

 

Brewmaster's Warehouse makes it dead easy. Just select the recipe from their BrewBuilder and then it can automtically add the ingredients to your cart. And they have great prices.

 

I have looked there and I don't see it there. I followed the link in the OP post and it took me to a dead link.

 

Nevermind......

 

http://brewmasterswarehouse.com/recipes/american-ale/american-pale-ale

There are AG and PM versions.

 

Hey Ed, do you think Whitbread yeast would be good with this recipe?

 

I have used several different yeasts on this grain bill with (uniformly quaffable) educational results. I will routinely use 1056 Chico or 1098 London Ale.

I probably won't do the Irish Ale yeast again. It wasn't bad, and a couple of my friends sucked it right down ;-)

Not familiar with Whitbread, but if you like it on light to midweight pale ales you'll probably like it here.

 

Yeah, i have some left over from a brown ale that came out really nice. I like that strain and I know a lot of people use it with IPA's, so I think it would also compliment an easier drinking APA as well.

 

I just started this based on the massive numbers of posts! (it's hit critical mass)

My efficiency was a bit low so I moved one of the last hop additions to a dry hop to compensate somewhat for the lower gravity. Tasted perfectly blended into the fermenter. Also tried a FWH for the 60 minute addition. It's happily bubbling away at 63F as I type this.

BTW, someone asked about where to get ingredients -- the Brewmaster's Warehouse website kit shows a much lower IBU than this recipe is supposed to have - I am guessing they don't adjust amounts or schedule for lower AA hops (I did on mine). Just a thing to think about for those buying as a kit and want to hit the target.

 

From what I understand, FWH should not be used to replace a 60 min addition, because it behaves more like a 20 min addition. You may end up with less perceived bitterness than you intend. I have just started experimenting with FWH myself though, so I don't know firsthand.

 

I know most people are doing it that way. But from what I understand from tests done on the 60 minute hops going to first wort, the IBUs will be actually be higher but with less perceived bitterness, and increased hop flavor. I like alot of hop flavor and less perceived bitterness would seem to be a good thing in this case, being I missed starting O.G.

Unfortunately, I can't seem to do any recipe 100% as is. Not that it's necessarily bad to do that, but it makes it harder to know what the subtle differences are. I'm sure this will taste good, though, and I'll make again if it's a hit.

Rich

 

Kegged on 10-9 and tried this today....awesome gonna be making this again.... my friends and I love it!

 

Just brewed another pale ale inspired by this one. It has a much more complex hop bill after my last attempt was just a tad on the bland side, and I used an English ale yeast this time. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

My first all-grain, a week in the bottle and it tastes great! Looks like a pretty dead-on 5 SRM, too.

 

Hey. When you bottled it, what did you use for priming sugars?

 

I want to make this recipe however my supplier doesnt have munich malt.

Here is what they recommended for a substitution:

"We don’t have Munich extract, but you can substitute more light malt. We would also have to substitute 30 L Crystal for the 10 L, or again 10L Cara-pils (which is technically a type of light crystal). The 30L crystal would compensate for changing the Munich to light. (So in this case it would be better to go with the 30L crystal).

With any recipe like this, you will likely have to make minor changes based on availability of ingredients. It’s just the nature of recipe formulation. (There are hundreds of types or grains that each come in dozens of colour ratings.)"


Would this be acceptable?

 

Carapils is similar in color to Crystal 10L, but also aids in head retention and mouthfeel. I often make that substitution, at least for some of the Crystal. Crystal 30L in place of munich will probably yeild a little different taste, and might end up a tad darker, but should be a good beer anyway. I say go for it.

 

Curious as well. Also, I'm considering doing just a primary fermentation on this brew. I know this is a rather quick batch to do, but if I just leave it for about 3 weeks would that be a decent amount of time?

 

I believe Ed Kegs, otherwise corn or cane sugar would be fine.

MrVagabond: my clearest beers have beer 3 weeks in the primary and into the bottle.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try the Haus Pale as a primary only.

One more question about the priming sugar though. How much should I use with a 5 gallon batch?

 

Primary only will be fine. I only use secondary if I'm dry-hopping or need the space (and I could probably dry-hop in primary as well). As for clarity, if you can set it up so you don't have to move it to bottle, that will help a lot. I have a counter-top in my basement that everything conditions on, so I can siphon into my bottling bucket from there.

4.5 ounces is always a reasonable amount of corn sugar for 5G of American Ale. But temperature at bottling impacts the amount of CO2 in solution. For more consistent results, use this site to calculate it.

 

Thanks for the tips and the online tool to use. It should come in handy in the future when I start getting looser with my recipes!

I wish I had a setup where I could just leave the beer alone, but in a studio apartment, my girlfriend would go crazy if I started taking up valuable counter space with a carboy of beer. It all gets banished to the closet until bottling for now and sloshed both ways while I carry it across the apartment. I'll have to be ok with cloudy until I can get a better setup.

 

How will this be with a 4 gallon boil instead of a full boil?

 

Why not just brew a 4 gallon batch instead of 5.5?

 

People do partial boils all the time.. so go for it! Just top up the extra water when its in the pail.

 

I don't think it's quite that easy. You're going to have to replace the fermentables you won't be getting.

 

Erm, I quoted the wrong post.. I meant to quote the one above it, asking about doing a 4 gallon boil instead of 5 gallon boil. I assumed that meant a partial boil. NOT the partial batch size (which I see no reason to do..)

 

When I brewed this, I took and bottle two bottles, primed them and let them set.
I popped one open tonite, 3 months later, and MAN.....unbelieveable. Totally different than what it was like out of the fermentor. Even better than it was a month and a half ago.

I agree with Ed, let it age. 90 days should be about right IMO.

(I used Safeale 05)

 

Alright, I think I'm going to make this recipe next weekend and I just bought my grains. Instead of regular 2 row, I bought Pale Ale Malt for my base grain. What do yall think about that?

 

Pale ale malt is 2 row. You'll be fine.

 

Oh yeah, I know. I think it's 3.5 L and regular American 2-row is like 1.5 L. I guess I'll have a bit more color, but flavor shouldn't be effected very much.

 

I just bought a sack of pale; it's 3 SRM instead of 2, or so GW claims. So it's a little more like British than the standard 2-row. I plan to use it in all of my recipes where 2-row is specified.

Dry hops(slight mod) are just about done on my first try on this recipe. I'm moving to cold stabilization tomorrow, so I gotta empty the keg this weekend....

Rich

 

Did you dry hop with cascades too?

 

Tried this as my first all-grain attempt and it came out pretty well! I brewed it up about 2-3 months ago and then had to let it sit in the bottles due to work. Cracked one open today and it was pretty good-even SWMBO liked it. However...it does have a little bitter aftertaste-maybe just a little bite of hops as you swallow, which she asked if I could adjust. So, given that neither one of us are real hop heads (yet), here's my question: If I switched to a milder hops like Williamette or Fuggles, would that tone it down a little? Or will those hops be funky in a pale ale. I'm still a noob, so I'm curious what your opinions are. Thanks!

 

With bittering units being the same, a milder flavored hop will give you the same bitterness. The main thing about the cascade hops is citrus flavor. Milder hops like Willamette can give you the same bitterness, but a more subtle, floral/earthy/spicy aroma instead of the citrus.

Here's how I would adjust it: You can reduce the perception of bitterness is to increase the sweetness. This can be done by changing the yeast to a less attenuative one, like california V. It can also be done by raising the mash temperature, which converts the grains into more long-chain un-fermentable sugars. Raising the mash temperature is what I would start with.

I would also use the Rager fomula to calculate your IBU's accurately. If mash temperatures don't balance it enough towards malty sweetness, you could move some of the hop additions a bit later in the boil, and play with the formula to slightly reduce your IBUs.

 

Yes, whole leaf.

Rich

 

Yum. How many oz did you use?

 

I used 1 oz.