are tri-ply pots preferred for induction burners?

I am thinking about making the switch from propane to induction brewing. my budget for a kettle is $200 or less. so far, all the tri-ply pots i have looked at do not have a spigot. I've looked at some Bayou Classic pots, but the ones with the spigots do not appear to be tri-ply.

am I wasting my time. is the tri/ply preferred and/or necessary? in a couple months I plan to buy an Advanco 3500. I brew 5 gallon batches for the most part. sometimes BIAB, so I plan to buy a 12 or 15 gallon pot. any opinions would be appreciated.

 

all pots are made without holes... someone just drills them later whether its you or someone else all depends on how much you dont want to do it vs how much your willing to pay

Seriously though you need the tri clad pots for induction heat or it doesnt work.

And yes there are a few sellers out there that drill holes in them for you. Just expect to pay $20-40 per hole vs $18 for the titanium coated step bit to drill them all yourself. (Its really not hard) If you spray cutting oil or wd40 on the bit and drill slow they cut like butter.
Still its nice to have it come ready . I understand.
I bought my bayou classic pots with a hole already drilled but had to add 7 more so...

Induction is not as common with homebrewers who have dedicated kettles with spigots it seems. many use it for portability and easy cleanup.

fyi many have had good luck with the tomlinson 3500w induction cooktop which can be found for about $125.

 

Just applying logic, not experience, I would think a standard SS pot that is "induction ready" would be fine. Induction is an even heating method that is unlikely to cause scorching.

Clad pots are normally used to distribute heat for gas or coil burners. That and bragging rights (personal opinion) when we get to the Copper clad pots.

 

My apologies if im wrong but I believe you need a magnetic steel for induction to work and My understanding was many of the induction pots had this steel sandwiched between the two layers of non or less magnetic stainless or at least mounted under to the outside of the pot...

Now that I thing about it your right the induction ready pots may not be considered "triclad" as those can have a copper layer instead for better heat distribution...

Magnetic grades of stainless also rust... (more steel/iron based ) so your average stainless pots wont work since they are 304 or 316 stainless I believe...

 

This not entirely true. Many grades of 400 SS are magnetic enough for induction and although it is possible to make it rust, you kind of have to try pretty hard.

To the OP, this thread looked pretty interesting:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/bayou-classic-induction-302408/

 

I have an induction based brewery and have used both the triclad bottom pots and the thin walled SS pots. I find that the pot with the triclad bottom has less scorching than the single wall pot. The single wall pot will have a noticeable area of accumulated slightly toasted malt in the bottom the diameter of the active induction coil after a boil. I have not noticed any added roasty flavor from this.

As to rusting...my pots are 308 or 304 stainless steel and rusting has never occurred.

This is one of the pots I use: Shop around and you can find it for about $70.
http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/update-international/sps-40/p5176.aspx

The single wall pot was just the cheapest SS pot I could find a Wally world.

When buying a pot be sure it is "induction ready".

 

400 grade stainless does rust... I can show you many examples..(the sidepipes on my vette are supposedly 389 grade stainless and I polish surface rust away all the time). its less likely to rust than regular steel but can rust none the less... This is why many harder grades of 400 series stainless used in knives state they are to be hand washed...
Usually it developes surface rust which wipes off fairly easily...

my point still remains, most of the stainless kettles sold are not the correct type of stainless for induction... You can test them with a magnet though...

 

a 304 or 316 stainless pot should not rust because they are not magnetic... the have more nickel and less ferrous metal in them to rust... they also should not work well at all for induction according to everything I've read...
Maybe you pots are not the grade of stainless you think they are.... walmart is chinamart... I have some stainless strainers and utensils from china that were advertised as stainless and they rusted BAD after the first use... so obviously someone wasnt telling the truth

EDIT**
apparently 429 stainless works very well but 304 will work just not as efficiently... the article does say

"Cookware for an induction cooking surface will be generally the same as used on other stoves. Some cookware or packaging is marked with symbols to indicate compatibility with induction, gas, or electric heat. Induction cooking surfaces work well with any pans with a high ferrous metal content at the base. Cast iron pans and any black metal or iron pans will work on an induction cooking surface. Stainless steel pans will work on an induction cooking surface if the base of the pan is a magnetic grade of stainless steel. If a magnet sticks well to the sole of the pan, it will work on an induction cooking surface. An "all-metal" cooker will work with non-ferrous cookware, but available models are limited."

I learned something today...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking

 

The bayou classic with spigot absolutely works on my induction cooktop. So tri-ply is not required but I can see why it would be a good idea.

 

Not that is matters but a simple solution to any of these issues is a 1/4" mild steel plate between any pot and any heat source. Really expensive versions of this are sold on Amazon for those wanting to use their existing cookware with induction cooktops or folks wanting to simmer on gas stoves without a pulse or simmer burner.

 

I have seen these too...

 

which bayou classic pot? they make one with a tricad bottom...

if its the non magnetic version that my 16 gallon bayou classics are look at the chart in wiki link I posted... While its working your loosing over half the cookers efficiency /heat output from what I understand.

 

This forum is truly "University class". For three years now I have been using 304 stainless pots on my induction burner and while doing a satisfactory job, I always wished that I could get a more vigorous boil. I brew good beer and have more requests for brew than I can supply with my current setup.

I'm going to look into a 400 series SS alloy kettle.

Maybe take my brewing to another level.

thanks augiedoggy

 

I've seen issues using these and ruining the stovetop, YMMV.

 

If incorrectly sized I bet they can crack the glass.

 

Well just try to find a pot made of 400 series stainless. You can find cutlery but no pots.

 

Check out Jarhill pots on EBay. They are 410 stainless and inexpensive. I have them (I don't use induction heating) and a magnet sticks just fine. They are thin and don't have a a tri-clad bottom though.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424484125.271491.jpg

 

You are very mistaken. A large portion of the larger pots coming from Asia are 400-series because it normally cheaper to make and much cheaper to do welded handles.

 

for those without tri-ply pots brewing with induction burners, if you could start again, would you purchase the tri-ply next time around? if so, how come?

If I make the investment into a new pot, I don't want to wish 6-12 months down the line that I bought different equipment.

 

hmmm . . . double post?

 

Single wall pots are more efficient for use with induction. They do a better job of transferring the heat into the wort. Clad bottoms will spread out the heat, but they also lose it because because the metal gets hot instead of the liquid and it's lost to radiation. With a single wall, scorching can be a problem with a high percentage of sticky grains like rye, but usually is not. I can get 14+ gallons to a boil and hold a good rolling boil with the lid off with my single wall Bayou 62 quart pot and a 3500W induction hob. Is anyone doing that with a clad pot?

I would highly recommend against using anything like a diffusion plate. They basically turn your induction hub into a traditional electric burner. The plate gets really hot and transfer that heat to your pot. First it's very inefficient because there's heat lose into the air, second it builds up a lot of heat and transfers it back into the hob. They are not made for that. I tried one with my IC3500 and it threw out an overheat error after a short time and eventually caused an internal fuse to blow.

Clad pots are better if you're cooking thick liquids like pea soup or chili or you're frying something. For boiling something like wort it's not necessary.

 

thanks for all the input. once I save a little more money, my next topic to figure out will be:

an Advantco or Tomlinson 3500?