aluminum triclover fittings

So I'm putting together the plumbing on my new rig and am incorporating some triclovers here and there. I'm not eliminating threads but minimizing them (less to disassemble and clean).

My brew kettle is a 20 gal aluminum pot and I intend to use a 3 way triclover ball valve on it (brewer's hardware). So I'm wondering where I can get a aluminum triclover fitting to weld to the pot. Or perhaps I can use a SS triclover ferrule and have that welded, brazed, or soldered. What are my options?

I searched for aluminum and triclover and didn't turn up much. I suspect that everyone who is using triclovers is fancy enough to not be using aluminum. Well not me.

 

Aluminum is not considered sanitary by the USDA. Aluminum fittings are hard to come by unless you use aircraft/automotive AN fittings.
Time to get a 'fancy' pot...

 

Or skip the triclovers.

 

It's a new pot so upgrading is out of the question.

Can I have ss triclover fittings welded, soldered, or brazed on and would that be wise?

I'm not opposed to threads but the triclover ss ball valve brewers hardware sells is cheaper than threaded 3/4" ss ball valves. So I figured why not. I'm also using a triclover on the keg/mlt for a bottom valve. These two vessels will share a single pipe to the pump inlet hence the three way ball valve.

I'll probably just use 2 separate 3/4" ss threaded valves (one on each kettle) and be done with it unless anyone has any bright ideas.

When finished this should be a pretty simple 2 tier, single pump hard plumbed system with a max of 4 ball valves (or 3 if I can get the 3 way valve to work).

 

Why 3/4"? Overkill for a 20 gallon.

 

The pump has a 3/4" inlet. And while I agree that it almost certainly is overkill, I intend to get max flow and head out of the pump and would like it to be as easy to prime as possible and the larger inlet piping only costs me the added price of 3/4" copper pipe over the price of 1/2" (plus the difference in ball valves). The simplified plumbing design that I've settled on requires all liquid to be pumped through the 50ft HERMS coil which will be on the second tier so I expect that that will put some strain on the pump.

Besides, the larger piping on the BK means less chance of clogs when draining it and easier cleaning. I'm leaning heavily toward a bottom drain on it as well. I've never been one to care about cold break getting into the fermenter.

Lastly, if I ever go to larger batches still then the 20 gallon pot may make for a very nice HLT or mash tun and then the larger diameter fittings will be quite useful.

 

You can soft solder SS to Aluminum using a propane torch and the correct solder & flux.

I recommend using Harris Stay-Brite-8 solder and Harris Stay-Clean Aluminum Flux for your job at hand. If you go this route, I'd suggest that you also get some Harris Stay-Clean Liquid Flux for use when you are not dealing with soldering Aluminum.

They also have a Stay-Brite Kit that might help you as a full roll of solder is quite pricey. (It's Silver solder).
Home Depot and Tower Hobbies carry the kit but with the kit you still need to secure the Stay-Clean Aluminum flux for your task at hand.

P-J

 

I have not seen an responses talking about the extreme difference in expansion rate between the to alloys and what type of stresses or cracking that could occur.

 

Good point and that is exactly why I recommended using Harris Stay-Brite-8 Silver solder. It does a super job of joining dissimilar metals.

 

hmm.. you've given me a lot to think about. I may go threaded or go with the solder and triclover. I appreciate the advice guys, thanks!