Alternative electric solution.

Try this out: http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizecalc.html

You'll need to put in how long of a cord you want. Where it says "one half the circuit length", just put in the full length of the extension cord.

 

I bet you could get away with smaller gauge wire than that. Each burner pulls maybe 10 amps max. No stove has wire that large to the individual burners. Getting the right kind of insulation to handle the heat at the connector is more important.

I assume based on the picture of the control box you are running separate lines to each burner, right?

 

Help me out, what am I doing wrong here. For a 15-foot run of 240 volts at 50 amps it wants me to use 14 AWG? And for 100 amps it wants 12 AWG? I'm not an electrician but I would stand pretty far back from a 12-AWG wire in a 100-amp circuit. Maybe this isn't AWG but something else?

 

Yah, that doesnt make any sense... Id be using 6AWG off the top of my head for 50A

 

I realized I only really need a 30 amp service for the 3 burners. I will be running separate lines for each burner so I guess 14 gauge will carry up to 10 amps.

I can leave the wiring as is on the connectors and junction tie into them so I don't have to special order any wire with the right insulation.

 

I threw away the identical jennair unit (at least it looked the same) about a year ago. Ducted air in the middle, right? I had 30A 240AC running to it. BTW, that is the same circuit I run my 5500W element off of now.

 

Yes ducted in the middle. I kept the duct with motor for another project.

 

Huh, that doesn't pass the commonsense test. I've used it for much smaller calculations. I'm guessing there's a lot it doesn't take into account. The equation is pretty simple:

circular mils = (Resistivity * 2 * Amps * Distance) / voltage drop in volts
(17.2*2*50*15) / (240*0.03) = 3583 cmils
and then per this chart: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html 14ga is 4107 cmils.

While that all jibes with teh calculator, it doesn't make much common sense. 30A dryer cords are 8ga.

 

12ga. is only rated for 20A at 120V, so it would be 10A at 240V.

If the calculator is telling you 14ga for 50A at 240, someone's gonna get hurt.

After playing with the calculator for a while, I think the values are reversed in their spreadsheets.

single phase 120V, 50' 20A = #10
single phase 240V, 50' 20A = #14.

Single, 120v 50' 50A = #6
Single, 480v 50' 50A = #12

I sent them an email.

I dig the project though. recycling an old cook top into a functional brewery is actually a great idea.

 

Are they talking about stranded wire as opposed to solid? That is usually different in how it handles current. I just can't remember which way you have to go; smaller or bigger.

 

So I'm thinking 12/2 wire to the elements from the control box. The hard part is figuring out how to make this removable without hardwiring it.

Using plugs I'd have 3 of them unless I make the control box part of the removable part and just unplug the whole thing

I would have to make an easy to remove mount point for the control box on the rig.

 

Looks great for a prototype. I've been looking around for a while for something electric that doesn't involve immersing the elements, (i want electric, but have to learn much more about it before i'd feel safe trying anything)
from my searching i found this http://www.mereo.sk/en/kitchen-equipment/stock-pot-ranges/electric-ste-6.html at 6000 wats it could probably do 10 gallons. the problem is that i can't find anything in north ameriaca, and no idea about how 400V.

 

Bought a 50 Amp gfci spa panel at home depot for $49.00 on clearance. Now I just need to get it all wired up.

 

I mentioned sort of jokingly in another thread that someone should create a pot that is oval shaped. Maybe 12" wide, 24" long, and 12" tall. When set on the stove it would completely cover two burners. You would also have a larger surface area that you would be applying heat and that would lessen your tendency to scorch.

Just a thought.

 

Nice. It's too bad you can't just set a spa to 152F, that'd make a hell of a RIMS mash tun...

 

Hrmm, winter project?

 

Finally wired the spa panel.

I decided to wire a 30 amp breaker in my service panel and wire the spa panel to that.

I'm using a 30 amp plug and will stay under 30 amps so the 50 amp breaker will only act as a gfci breaker.

Anyway it went well today and I'll get the "burner" assembly wired tomorrow and tested with any luck.

 

Tested the burner today. Worked great. Changing a few things on my stand and will do a full boil test later today.

 

Did not get to the full boil test run. I did get it all together and test its function.

Here are some pictures.

 

SWEET, wow... children do not play around the stove!

I have some photos for you Wayne, they are in your latest thread.

 

Thank you I saw them. We are worlds apart in bling. Your system will have so much bling you will get tickets for blinding traffic.

This is definitely not kid friendly. Not that a gas burner is any more friendly either but at least you can see a flame.

 

Hooked up my LG mag drive pump and tested it. Just need to wipe down everything and brew this evening.

 

Unit is tripping the GFCI breaker for some reason. Guess I have to play detective tomorrow. Of course it worked fine without the ground lines hooked up.

 

Howdja like that pump?

 

The pump is great. It primes easy and its not too loud. I'd pay the same price as a march pump for one of these.

 

First brew on the rig tonight. Fat Handfula Stout

First Stout I have done in years. Also the first time in years to do a steep / extract batch!

 

Were you able to get the GFCI working with your system? I just scored a Whirlpool drop in range and I'm planning to use the same HD spa GFCI box.

 

Yes. Its working great now.

 

Hi, what are you using here for your burners? Looks like 220V Electric? Howmany Watts? How long does it take to boil?

 

I started brewing on an electric stove and hated it. I had a BIG issue hitting temps and not overshooting. I now do it on a gas range and I love the ability to see the flame and quickly adjust heat. It takes a while for the element on a stove to cool down cmpared to just "flaming out" a gas range. Does yor PID adjust the heat well enough not to overshoot?