Adding a 240 volt circuit for indoor BIAB

I was hoping I could run this by someone. I've done other basic homeowner electric work like adding 120 breakers and outlets. From reading online, adding a single 240 volt circuit next to my breaker box doesn't seem that more difficult than what I've done before.

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Digiboil 65L : 20 amps 3500 watts. Has a nema 6-30h plug. 6-30h outlets are only 30amps though.

22 ft from circuit breaker.

So I went with a 30 amp 2-pole breaker (square D and HOM like my other breakers) and nm-b 10-2 wire. Will use the neutral white wire as the second hot (and label it red).

Does all this sound good? Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

 

You should use a GFCI breaker instead. More expensive by a large margin but safer for this purpose. I would also run 10/3nmb as its not much more money and will future proof that install. Just leave the neutral wire nutted. at both ends.

Be careful

 

I recently replaced my Siemens dryer breaker with a 30 amp 2-pole GFCI breaker to power an electric kettle. The breaker cost about $80 at Home Depot. The Square D breakers look a little more expensive, but I think it's the best way to get GFCI protection. 240v inline GFCI cords can be used, but they are expensive.

 

Your standard 30A double pole is not enough. You need a gfci 30 A double pole. In the event of a ground fault it will trip far faster than during a short circuit. Other than that i think you are on the right track

 

Thanks guys. Ordered the gfci 30A double pole breaker.

 

I do not need a neutral for the outlet.but what do I do with the curly neutral coming from the gfci breaker? Do I still attach to neutral bar? There's also a spot for a neutral input on the breaker. Do I not need to plug the neutral from the 10-3 wire into it? Thanks!!

 

The curly neutral goes to the neutral bus bar in the panel. A load neutral does not need to be connected to the GFCI breaker in your case. Just nut the neutral of your cord at both ends as Bobby suggested. The breaker should have instructions and a wiring diagram to confirm this.

 

I'm looking into getting the 9.5 gallon digiboil 220v. I plan to use my 30amp dryer outlet. And make me an outlet for the 6-30 plug that I can plug into my dryer outlet. Following this thread, why would I need a 30amp GFCI breaker if the unit is only rated at 15 amps?

 

GFCI is protection for you. Don't think of amp load, think of GFCI as a function that trips the breaker in case you become a short in the circuit regardless of amperage. It prevents you from dying while trying to make a tasty brew. Just size the GFCI breaker (amps) to your intended load and don't worry about touching the kettle will standing in a puddle of water. If you are operating a 15 amp unit, then a 20 amp GFCI breaker will do just fine.

You could get away with a 15 amp GFCI breaker, but a 20 amp will give you a little more room and less heat build up in the breaker.

If you plan on using your dryer when not brewing, then you will need a 30 amp GFCI breaker. Your dryer will probably trip a 15 or 20 amp breaker because of the load.

 

Because the unit uses a 30amp plug I'm going to use my dryer outlet which is a double pole 30amp. So your advice is to just change that breaker to a double pole 30amp GFCI breaker? Thanks for any advice. I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row, so when I pull the trigger and buy the unit, I'm already set up to brew

 

Yes, just change the breaker to a 30 amp double pole GFCI breaker and you will be protected from getting fried. You can use an inline GFCI extension cord, but they are more expensive then a GFCI breaker.

 

I'll just go with the breaker. Thanks for the advice. I had assumed that these electric kettles had built in protections. But never hurts to be safe.

 

i was talking about the 17.1 gallon 220v(240v) version. Mine came with a plug that is only 30 amp despite the manual and website saying it was 20a. There a few errors in the manual... and manual is pretty poor. So i wouldn’t be surprised if 20 amp is also an error.

 

Be aware that some older electric appliances (including dryers) will actually cause a gfci breaker to trip... Its not all that common but it can be an inconvenience so its worth mentioning if your dryer is ancient..

 

This is because if it is a 3 prong dryer outlet. The dryer is grounded through the neutral lug thus the GFCI senses the current and trips.

 

3500 watts pulls just under 15 amps. This is a mathimatic fact. I dont know for sure but they probably tried to use the plug type most compatible with what 240v outlets people have. On a new dedicated circuit you have decisions to make. Go 30amp to be more future proof or go 15 amp to make it inexpensive (breaker and wire). If you do yhe latter, you have to hard wire to a 240v 15a receptacle and then modify the Digiboil or make an adapter cable. In no case do you want a true 30a device to be physically plugable into a 15a circuit.

 

I have found another option that may work better for me and that's the use of a spa panel. For those interested here's the wiring going from 4 wire dryer outlet to connect to 3 wire electric kettle plug and keep it GFCI protected.

https://www.spadepot.com/wiring-hot-tub-spa.htm

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320284

 

Yes, a spa panel will certainly work. I debated between a spa panel and replacing the dryer breaker with a GFCI breaker also. My reasoning for going with the GFCI breaker rather than spa panel was that I didn't need to use the dryer outlet for anything else (I use a gas dryer), and it was cleaner and simpler to me than adding a spa panel between the outlet and brew controller. The GFCI breaker is easy to install. The breaker was only $80, so cost was fairly similar.