90 shilling recipe help needed - (Odell clone)

I am still trying to come up with a 90 shilling ale clone. Please take a look at this version and give me your opinion on it.

malt and fermentables
6 lb Amber Malt Extract Syrup
1 lb Light Dry Malt Extract
1 lb Crystal 60L
8 oz Cara Pils

hops
60 minutes 1.0 Centennial pellet 10.5
5 minutes 0.25 Mount Hood pellet 5.0

yeast
White Labs Edinburgh Scottish Ale (WLP028)

misc
15 minutes 1 ounces Irish Moss

Original Gravity
1.060 (1.054 to 1.063)
Final Gravity
1.016 (1.014 to 1.017)
Color
13° SRM (Copper to Red/Lt. Brown)

Bitterness
10.5 HBU
29.1 IBU

Alcohol
5.98% A.B.V.
4.7% A.B.W.

5 gallon batch

1) Add 1 1/2 gallons of water to the brewing pot. Pour the crushed grains into a grain bag and tie the bag closed. Place the bag into the water and allow the grains to steep over .
medium heat (the water should be steamy, not boiling). After 30 minutes, remove the pot from the heat, remove and discard the grain bag

2) Pour the following malt extract(s) into the pot while stirring constantly. Return the pot to the heat and bring the contents of the pot to a boil.

3) The wort will boil for a total of 60 minutes during which time the following hops and other ingredients will be added to the boil. (see list above)

4) At the end of the 60 minute boil, remove the pot from the heat then remove and discard the hop bags. Allow the wort to cool to about 85ºF. (Note: Use a wort chiller to hasten this very important step. Also, be sure that anything that will come into contact with the chilled wort is properly sanitized.)

5) While the wort is cooling, add 3 gallons of cold water to the primary fermenter. Add the chilled wort and enough additional cold water to bring the total volume up to 5 gallons. At this point, take a sample of the wort for the specific gravity reading.

6) The proper temperature at which to pitch (add to the wort) the yeast is in the 65ºF-75ºF range. If necessary, place the fermenter into a cold (or warm) water bath to bring the temperature into this range . When the temperature is correct, pitch the yeast. (Note: If a dry yeast is used, rehydrate it prior to pitching by sprinkling it on top of 1/2 cup of water that has been boiled and cooled to 85ºF. Allow the yeast to rehydrate, unstirred, for no more than 15-20 minutes before pitching.) NOTE: The yeast required for this recipe is Wyeast #1056 American Ale, 1.0.

7) Install an airlock or blowoff hose to the fermenter and move the fermenter to a dark spot for primary fermentation.

8) Allow the beer to ferment for three weeks in the primary fermenter, then at the end of the third week, record the specific gravity reading. A steady specific gravity reading of different samples over two or more days indicates that fermentation is complete.

9) When fermentation is complete, proceed with bottling. In a bottling bucket, add 3/4 cup of corn sugar or 11/4 cups of dry malt that has been boiled in 2 cups of water. Gently rack the finished beer into the bottling bucket with the priming sugar solution. Using a bottle filling tip, fill the bottles to 1/2" - 1" from the top. Cap the bottles and allow them to condition at room temperature for two weeks.

Its a little high on the ABV, what else is wrong?

 

Anyone have any ideas on this one at all? It will be a gift for my son when he comes home.

 

Well, I think that's the best one yet. I did a little reading about the beer, and it is actually classified as an American Amber, so I think your grain bill will work well. I would try to keep that yeast on the cool side of the temp range, because 90/- is a very clean tasting beer, I think that's why the 1056 is recommended.

I think the problem mine had, was it was too much like an actual strong scotch ale, and less like Odell's interpretation. I ran it through beersmith, and the numbers look good to me, good color and IBU with your boil size.

 

I started with an 80 recipe and then used the grain from the brew hut recipe then made some other minor mods according to the Odell's site. I'm hoping someone tries it before I have to. I still may just order that organic kit. Its important to me to have it be good for my kid. He deserves it. Thanks for your opinion.

Any other comments?

 

o'dells used the same yeast in all of their beers. I belive the guy said it was "german ale yeast" i forgot if it was white labs or wyeast. but it was one of the 2.

 

i brewed your 90 schilling. my homebrew store was out of the edinburg yeast but i used dry english ale instead. i'll let you know how it turns out. ive never had 90 schilling, but my colorado friends say it is preferred by locals to Fat tire amber. we'll see.

 

I'm really interested in how this eventually turned out for you lapaglia. Did you ever brew it, and if so, was it close to the real thing? If so, I will be brewing it up soon.

Fat Tire sucks, it may be the worst of New Belgiums offerings IMO.

 

ODell's 90/- isn't really a 90 /-. It's kind of disappointing if you have ever had a real 90/-. That being said, it is a very good American Amber. I don't know if it rivals Fat Tire, but it's right up there.

I brewed a Scottish Ale that was billed as being quite close to 90/-, but I fermented a bit warm and it turned out a bit sweeter. I also used a Crystal 60L and I probably should have used a 90L.

 

I would use light LME instead of Amber

 

We know, it was discussed in this thread, and another discussing this beer. That's why the 1056/001 is suggested, and it is listed as an American Amber in the style sheets.

Fat Tire blows, Odell kicks New Belgium's ass, their IPA is awesome. Too bad I only can have it when I'm up there.

 

I have not have a chance to brew it yet. The good part is I am retired. The bad part is that is because of disability. Ive been sick for the last few months. Today was the first time I brewed anything in a while. Thanks for the comments I hope to brew it soon.

blackwaterbrewer: let me know, good or bad, how it turns out.


LaPaglia

 

It's been a few months here. Anyone end up with something close to Odells 90/-?

 

Bumping this up I'm looking to brew a 3 gallon version this weekend and would love a proven recipe.

 

Ya'll,

I helped a buddy brew up this recipe last week. This was his first stab at homebrewing and he wanted to do a 90 Schilling as it is his favorite craft beer. We followed this recipe except we used 7# of light DME as opposed to 6# LME & 1# DME.

We punched the ingredients into Tasty Brew's calculators and came up with an anticipated OG of 1.066. Our OG came in at 1.040!?!?!?! After a week in primary the SG was 1.022!?!?!

So I guess my question is twofold - what are some reasons the OG would be so low, and secondly, why would cause the FG to be so high?

 

4lb Northern Brewer Pilsen
2lb Light Dry Extract
8oz Wheat Dry Extract
4oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L
4oz Munich Malt - 20L
1oz Chocolate Malt

60 mins 1.0 Cascade info
30 mins 1.0 Cascade info
1 min 0.5 Northern Brewer


Wyeast American Ale (1056) info
ale yeast in liquid form with low to medium flocculation


Alcohol
5.3% A.B.V.
4.1% A.B.W.

Original Gravity
1.053
(1.047 to 1.055)
Final Gravity
1.013
(1.011 to 1.014)

27.3 IBU

Calories
173 per 12 oz.

It's a LITTLE darker, but it still has that same hoppy bite that 90 shillings does. At first I didn't like it at all, but I tried it the other day, it tastes nearly the same as 90 shillings. I'd probably remove the chocolate, though. I got this recipe from somewhere, I can't remember where.

------------
This is where I got it:

OK, I emailed O'Dells sometime ago, and Doug O'Dell responded to my inquiry. Here's what he sent me: 90 Schilling has about 27 IBU's and starts at 1.054, w/malt % as follows:

75% Pale ale malt
9% Munich malt
7% light crystal malt
5% wheat malt
3% caramalt
1% choc malt

 

Appreciate the recipe. Will brew this weekend and give you feedback on my batch when it is ready for tasting.

-- dgh