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40 gallon steam jacketed kettle

Discussion in 'Kettles, Mash Tuns & Hot Liquor Tanks' started by BasementGrowler, Mar 3, 2011.

 

  1. #1
    BasementGrowler

    Member

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    I just picked up a 40 gallon 2/3 steam jacketed kettle that the furnace went bad on. Plan on stripping all un needed parts off it and cut the steam chamber off. Hopefully I will be left with a 40 gallon brew kettle. It has a 2" tangent valve toward the bottom. Anyone have any ideas how to reduce the 1 1/2" pipe, that the valve assembly is attached to, down to around 1/2". The valve is not on the kettle so I can't use it, only the valve "housing" is attached to the kettle.

    I own a steel fab shop so stainless steel welding/fabrication is not an issue.
     
  2. #2
    wyzazz

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    Snap a pic and I'm sure we can figure something out.
     
  3. #3
    klyph

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    Is it worth fixing the furnace and using it as is? If I had a 40 gallon kettle, I'd want more than 1/2" plumbing.
     
  4. #4
    jbrookeiv

    Crafted Magazine

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    Subbed.
     
  5. #5
    BasementGrowler

    Member

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    I didn't get all the parts, and the furnace was cut apart. So fixing it is not an option.
     
  6. #6
    georgnox

    New Member

    Posted Mar 3, 2011
    If you are not use to fixing this items then, I will advise you to ask a professional personnel to help you with this.
     
  7. #7
    tdogg

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011
    subscribed. pics?
     
  8. #8
    chady74

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011
    is that 2" pipe or tube how far away is it from the kettle if you have a stub out you could get an conical reducer
     
  9. #9
    BasementGrowler

    Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011
    [​IMG]

    This is what the kettle would have looked like new. All I have is the kettle part. So far I have cut everything sticking out except the valve housing, shown on the left side of the picture. Will hopefully add pics soon of the actual kettle and the work I have done so far.
     
  10. #10
    chady74

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011
    that looks like tube so you would need a 2"od to 1/2"od conical to make it then i would go with tri clamp fitings
     
  11. #11
    BasementGrowler

    Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011
    [​IMG]

    This is a pic of the actual kettle before I cut the bottom of the steam chamber out. I also took the end of the drain spout off so I can weld a threaded nipple to it. It is a 2" round tube.
     
  12. #12
    dmfa200

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Mar 4, 2011

    I may be over simplifying your explanation, but a 1 1/2" x 1/2" swage fitting would do it.
    You would just cut off the threads on the 1 1/2" side of the fitting, weld, and now you've reduced down to 1/2" with a threaded end.
     
  13. #13
    kladue

    Senior Member  

    Posted Mar 5, 2011
    Why not just copy the direct fired GROEN brand kettles, put a 4" flue on the top of the steam jacket and use a shrouded jet burner for the air heater.
     
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