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30 Amp Homer Box, 3 PID, 2 Element

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by ryanhope, Nov 3, 2015.

 

  1. #1
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 3, 2015
    Homer boxes are cheap as hell and much easier to work on than aluminum so I figured I would use one for an initial test control panel (box) build.

    Contents:
    3x Watlow 96 PIDs
    3x 40A contactors
    1x 25A SSR (will upgrade to 40A soon)
    1x 12V transformer (for arduino mini pro & rpi not shown)
    1x Key main switch
    2x Illuminated pump switches
    2x Element LEDs
    1x 3way element selector
    1x Estop (not shown)

    All of the PIDs, in addition to primary sensor input and SSR output, they have an additional output which can be set to report process value or percent power. They also have an extra input which can be use for remote set points. Thats where the arduino and rpi come in. The aduino will handle all of the A/D conversion and the rpi will run some remote monitoring and control software I write.

    For those who are interested, I mounted all the components to 1/4" MDF. A piece with the dimensions 7"x16" fits perfectly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. #2
    iijakii

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 3, 2015
    Lookin good! So what do you have in mind to do with the RasPi?
     
  3. #3
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 3, 2015
    Initially just data logging and manual remote set points but maybe down the road mash profiles and automation.
     
  4. #4
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    It's alive!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    The10mmKid likes this.
  5. #5
    doug293cz

    BIABer, Beer Math Nerd, ePanel Designer, Pilot Staff Member  

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    You might want to think about putting a temp probe on your SSR. That heatsink, mounted to MDF, in a closed plastic box, isn't going to be doing much cooling. Typical high current SSR's can dissipate 30 - 35W (at spec max forward voltage drop and ~20A current.) You want the SSR (at SSR/heatsink interface) to be less than 140°F (60°C), and lower is better.

    Brew on :mug:
     
  6. #6
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    Good point about the temps. I never planned on running this completely closed. I forgot to mention that I have a fan that I am planing on mounting on the side of the box next to the SSR.
     
  7. #7
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    Instead of changing the 25a ssr which is rated for and fine for your application, I would invest in a 12v fan and $3 12 power supply to power it. I would mount it to blow thru the heatsink. I did this myself and have had no issues with my 25a ssr in 3 years... BTW its only speculation that the 40a ssr will run cooler or more reliably than a 25a one for a 17-23a load depending on your element. I have seen no evidence that anyone has done as testing to show this... Only that it's assumed.
     
  8. #8
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    If you notice, I already have 3amp 12v power supply in there to do things like power 12v computer fans ;)
     
  9. #9
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    ah I missed the transformer... :)
     
  10. #10
    BrunDog

    Sponsor  

    Posted Nov 4, 2015
    Make sure that wood piece is glued/screwed down. An accidental tip over could cause things to move and contact to be made in undesirable ways.

    -BD
     
    ryanhope likes this.
  11. #11
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 8, 2015
    Last night I did my first 100% electric brew. The Homer box help up nice, no issues what so ever. Did a variant of Dennys Wry and ended up hitting 90‰ efficiency.

    View attachment 1446988647221.jpg
     
  12. #12
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
  13. #13
    WI_Wino

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    what amp meter/voltmeter are you using?
     
  14. #14
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    Something cheap I found on eBay back when I was looking for STC1000s.
     
  15. #15
    WI_Wino

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2018
  16. #16
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2018
  17. #17
    WI_Wino

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    sweet, thanks!
     
  18. #18
    BrunDog

    Sponsor  

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    I am sorry... I just don't get it. You are building a nice system with decent components. Why did you cheap out on the enclosure? A legit enclosure would not set you back much in terms of your total spend. Just my opinion, take it for what that is.
     
  19. #19
    ryanhope

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Nov 13, 2015
    There are a lot of answers to your question:

    1) This was really just a temporary solution to test 1 PID but since I don't know what I want to use for my final enclosure yet I added more components to make it usable while I ponder my many options.

    2) I haven't brewed in a year, been siting on a pile of parts for a while, just wanted to get something working and some brews under my belt with all electric before I spent more on an enclosure.

    3) I rent, having a solution that is easy to break down and move is nice. I think I can fit my entire brewery in my car.

    4) I don't like how massive some of the panels are that I see, I'm not crazy about the bulky vertical mount cabinets. I don't really have any place to hang a giant panel since I am a renter. I am learning toward a horizontally mounted rack mount amp chasis which I will mount under my brew table.

    5) Cutting/drilling orange plastic is way easier than aluminum.
     
    iijakii likes this.
  20. #20
    BrunDog

    Sponsor  

    Posted Nov 14, 2015
    Fair enough! For temp work - it makes total sense.

    -BD
     
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