110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

1. I only used the fuses listed on the diagram.
2. Yup

 

While we are on the topic of fuses, I had a couple more questions about this. I have always seen temp controllers wired like boxbrewer's setup - with a fuse on the heating element, and the EMO cutting power. Unless I am missing something, it looks like the EMO in pj's version is designed to trip the GFCI. Is this correct? Is this a recommend way of doing it in wet conditions or something?

Thanks!

 

Yes, the EPO in P-J's designs will trip the GFCI. If you are using a subpanel with the GFCI there, when it trips there will be no power in the box at all. If you use a switch and relay to cut the mains power, there is still power to the box.

Some have questioned tripping the GFCI vs simply cutting the power with a relay and the debate at times can get heated.

I personally prefer to cut the power to the entire control panel at the subpanel GFCI.

 

+1

 

Yeah, I got some advice from an electrician friend of mine that builds control boxes for a living. He fused the element, pump and PID and then the E Stop was basically the "main power".

 

Despite there being a "better way" I am currently in the market for the cheap and workable way because it is after the holidays, I've already spent a crap ton of money getting to where I am and I'm going back to school next week. I've got the control panel worked out, the pump working, the holes in the kettle are drilled and now this is my final step. I can fix it up later if need be....one day....maybe.

One thing I haven't though about is grounding the element and kettle. Wondering what you did under that plumbing clamp?

 

Jammin - are you using the 24 quart Bayou Classic pot?

 

It's only the 20qt SS. Plenty of room though!

 

jrb03,

I've enjoyed reading your thread. I think I'm going to direct my e-BIAB build to brew small batches. I can still use the propane to brew the 5-gallon batches.

Question: do I read correctly that you are doing this with a single 1650 watt element?

Thanks,
Keith

 

That is correct. I had thought about upgrading to 2000 watt but haven't seen a need, the 1650 is working great.

 

I'm heating some water now, finally, and in auto tune it has overshot the temp by like 20 degrees and keeps rising. Is this how everybody else's has been? Does it eventually come back down?

 

It's been a while but yes I think your fine. The auto tune is trying to figure out who it is and how much power it has let it do its thing.

 

Make sure its in auto mode. If you try to autotune in manual mode it just keeps going up

 

jrb03,

Thank you so much for your continued posting and updates in this thread. I'm so very happy (glad) that I could help you in your adventure. The best part of it all? You have been an immense help to this community.

You make me feel so very honored.

A toast to you. In HONOR.

Thank you..!!

P-J

 

P-J Thanks again for your continuous help with the thread!

I am in the process of making my 2.5 gal eBIAB system similar to the one in this thread with just a few minor changes being A. 2000W element (as opposed to 1650W) and B. March pump (instead of 12V pump). With that said I am worried about Amp rating. I recently just had a 20A GFCI outlet installed that is on a 20A breaker by itself (dedicated brewing breaker) and wired using 12-3 romex. I would like to run everything off of the single outlet but I am a bit concerned about the amp rating and continuous load rules of NEC. My anticipated brew day time and current draw is bellow. In your humble opinion do you believe this will be okay or should I move the March pump to its own power source?

Heat strike water + PID (2000W element - 16.7A) - 30 min (17.7A total)
Recirculate mash + PID (2000W Element - 16.7A on/off controlled by PID, March pump 1.4A) - 1 Hr (19A total)
Boil + PID (2000W element - 16.7 A) - 1 Hr (17.7A total)
Chill - (March pump 1.4A) - 30 min (1.4A total)

As you can see there will be time when the element (16.7A) and pump (1.4A) will be running at the same time and with the little bit of draw from the PID, push button switches and PC fan (~1A), I will be running at 19A which is 95% of the rating. However There will only be about 30 min max at which everything will be running continuous operation. Do you recommend I move the pump to its a separate outlet so as to not push the limits of the wiring?

Thanks again for your help

 

You will be A-Ok as is. IMHO - No problem.

The PID will draw less than 0.1A. The pump will draw less than you think (under 1A when running).

Ok, Now down to the real issue: The NEC rule does not apply to you.!!! It applies to the designing and installing electrical technicians. Additionally, you have a single outlet fed directly from a dedicated breaker and circuit. Even with this particular case the NEC 'rule' does not apply to the designing and installing electrician. It is a dedicated circuit. Ball game is over with no worries what so ever. Go for it and do not worry about all the dug up sudo issues mentioned everywhere.

I hope this makes sense and helps you.

P-J

 

that makes since. Thanks a bunch!

 

You are more than welcome & wish you great success in your adventure.

 

Thanks P-J! It is a pleasure to use this system and I toast this homebrew to you for all your help!

 

Question to everyone using this setup right now:

When boiling your wort what do you have the PID set to?

 

Turn it to manual mode, crank to 100%, then once you hit boil back it down to whatever you're comfortable with. Trial and error to figure out your preferred boil off rate

 

I set mine to manual mode 100% for entire boil.

 

I set mine to manual 100% as well. I usually have to back it down a touch to hit my boil off rate.

 

100% the whole time I have not missed my boiloff a single time

 

Ah, ok. That makes me feel a bit better but I thought the point of manual mode was to be able to reduce the intensity of the boil so that the element wasn't firing the entire time.

 

not as much of an issue here with the smaller elements and batches, definitely have to back off for the 240v systems with 4500-5500w elements

 

I have a single element 3000w 120v system and have to turn it down to 70%-73% to keep from boiling over 7.5g. It basically depends on your system and kettle size.

 

How many amps does that pull?

 

*deleted*

 

So I was looking at ways to attach the heating element to the pot/kettle/keggle. Not my original idea but it seems like a good way to go.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=7

Also found this 1650w heating element for cheaper than graingers.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00065662...medium=referral&utm_campaign=AmazonProductAds

Through an outside source of amazon. $9.99 plus $5 shipping. Cost less shipped than grainger.

Hope this helps someone.

 

It's on a 30a 125v breaker.
Here's my thread for it if you have anymore questions. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/different-e-brewery-380514/

 

question for jrb03 and anyone recirculating BIAB what are you using below the bag?
ie false bottom or hop stopper
I tried a microwave rack supporting my bag and my bazooka hop stopper on my trial setup ,but wonder what I need for my 70 litre pot I am building.
I dont have a steamer basket so would need something to support the bag

thanks in advance Paul

 

My bag pretty much sits on the element and I don't really use anything to support it. I don't now if this is because of the dimensions of my bag but I do need to lift it up a bit to keep it from getting suck up to the SS Elbow I use for a diptube which will restrict liquid incoming to the pump. All I need to do for that though is pull the bag up a bit and put the lid on, works fine!

 

thanks inhouse brew doea this mean your hops pass through the pump or do you use a hop bag or reuse the grain bag?

 

Well, I use a plate chiller so I need to be extra careful about hops. I've tried a couple batches just tossing them in there and trying to do a ghetto whirlpool by just stirring the wort and letting it settle which worked ok. I think however I'm going to go back to the hop bag.

Last time I used a bag for boiling hops it got really nasty and clogged up after a bunch of uses. You could lift it up and it would hold wort which would slowly seep out. Not sure if it was the type of bag I used but I'm going to get a new one specifically for hops just to make sure I don't ruin my BIAB bag.

 

My bag touches and rests on the element. I use a hop bag since I use a plate chiller.

 

thanks guys ,I too have a plate chiller and that is why I asked the question.I noticed several people using just a pickup tube in there pot and wondered about the hops in the pump etc.Up to now I have used a bazooka hop filter in my boiler( 5 gallon ,3 vessel setup) and false bottom in the mash tun.However wanting to make a recirculating BIAB 10 gallon, I was wondering what was best considering wort flow during recirculation of mash.
I normally recirculate/whirlpool for the last 10 minutes of the boil to sterilise chiller and was not sure what to go for in the new setup.I think the hop stopper will be the first thing to try as I already have it ,as long as it doesnt clog with hops(bearing in mind I will be doubling my brew length and therefore amount of hops compared with the 3 vessel kit)failing that maybe the hop bag.

 

You use the Lowe's paint strainer bags, right? Going to brew the first 1.080+ beer on the system next weekend and I noticed with the basket, the mash gets thick with more than 6 #'s.

 

Finally finished wiring this guy up. Will do a water test this week.

 

I apologize if I have missed it. The many panel pictures are hard to distinguish the wire sizes. I have not seen any mention of the wire sizes used in the many panel builds. P-J indicated that only the wire to the element outlet and the contact and I assume the SSR # 1 & 2 need to be 12 gauge and the pump outlet wire 14 gauge. Am I correct in that assumption ?
Also the remaining wire to the rest of the switches can be what smaller gauge ? All 22 as Kal indicates or do most of you use larger sizes than his . I would appreciate any help before I get to wiring.