Stainless Camlocks review

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Ahhhh, gotcha. They can move a little but like I said, I wouldn't go crazy. In most cases the tubing will probably flex more than the fitting once connected, but they can move a little.
 
OK, so lets say you can't buy these in stainless (though you probably could if you looked, though I haven't) - you must be unwaveringly committed to the look to choose grinding over an oversized barb.
Or am I missing something.
See pics.
As you can see, the inside diameter of the 5/8" barb is about the inside diameter of the tubing itself. You can see a comparison with a regular 1/2" barb. Don't take the assembly literally, you have choices about what elbow you use and sex of the camlock.

IMG_0171_640x480.JPG


IMG_0176_640x480.JPG


IMG_0173_640x480.JPG
 
I am having a challenge with air locks in my pumps since switching to the camlocks. However, only when chilling with the CFC Chillus Convellutus. I have it temporarily on it's side (horizontal), could this be the problem? Does it HAVE to be vertical as the mounting bracket would indicate?

 
My thinking is to place the pump head, speaking SS head in any position that best fits your needs on your rig even if the discharge inside the pump head is not at the 12 O-clock position. At the 12 O-clock position Tig a 1/4" stainless needle valve that's flush to inside the pump to not impede pump output.
The output side with a compression fitting add a short piece of SS tubing bent into a "U" that discharges pionting down allowing one add a sample cup or tubing to vent the air and prime the pump.
 
BrewBeemer said:
My thinking is to place the pump head, speaking SS head in any position that best fits your needs on your rig even if the discharge inside the pump head is not at the 12 O-clock position. At the 12 O-clock position Tig a 1/4" stainless needle valve that's flush to inside the pump to not impede pump output.
The output side with a compression fitting add a short piece of SS tubing bent into a "U" that discharges pionting down allowing one add a sample cup or tubing to vent the air and prime the pump.
Click to expand...

:drunk:

I think I'm too buzzed at the moment to get this. :D

I will come back to it later! :tank: ;)
 
So I just got my camlocks from Bargain Fittings today. I won't be able to comment on their utility for a while until my new electric brewery is built, but I do want to say that Bargain Fittings ROCKS:rockin::rockin::rockin:

They packaged them very well, shipped them lightning fast, and INCLUDED THE ORINGs. I'm sorry, but the o-rings blew me away. Little stuff like that goes a long way in my book. I said this over in the electric forum too, but I will be bff's with BF.
 
I was a bit uncomfortable stretching the 1/2" silicone hose over a 1/2" npt fitting because of how tight it is even with the threads ground down. So here's what I did:

I bought some 316ss 3/8" X 1/2" reducing nipples from buyfittingsonline ($3.30/each)...
IMG_3421.jpg


The ID is larger than the barbed camlock as received...
IMG_3422.jpg


I started by "turning" down the 3/8" to about .60" to remove the threads and make a snug fit for the 1/2" silicone (and be able to use the oetiker clamps I have).
I "turned" them by threading them on a carriage bolt, chucking it in a drill press at 300rpm, and using a angle grinder and file to remove the material and get them fairly smooth. This took less than 5 minutes each...
IMG_3427.jpg


IMG_3428.jpg


IMG_3423.jpg


Last but not least, I bored the ID of each out to .470...
IMG_3424.jpg


End result...
IMG_3425.jpg


IMG_3426.jpg
 
I have found out how I am going to connect everything....

bargainfittings.com order is about to be placed.

since I only have 2 keggles and only plan on using one for now I'll just be buying two TYPE F fittings one to thread into my ball valve and the other to hook up to my CFC then I'll buy two TYPE D's and 2 1/2" street 90's

those large bore barbs are way to spendy for me cost of a nipple or street 90 is less than 1/2 the cost of those large bore barbs.

I'll take my chances and turn down the fittings my self.

edit: planning for my future brewing sculpture how long would you say I need my silicone tubing to be?

-=Jason=-
 
klyph said:
Wouldn't 1/2 by 3/8 reducing street elbows be the better option.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've never seen a reducing street elbow. The other issue, even if it did exist, is that it appears ohio-ed has the 1/2" FEMALE NPT cam locks.

I've found no problem at all with stretching 1/2" ID silicone over turned down 1/2" NPT, but I can appreciate what he did there.
 
Bobby_M said:
Yeah, I've never seen a reducing street elbow. The other issue, even if it did exist, is that it appears ohio-ed has the 1/2" FEMALE NPT cam locks.

I've found no problem at all with stretching 1/2" ID silicone over turned down 1/2" NPT, but I can appreciate what he did there.
Click to expand...

Here's one:
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...tdiv=687620&vgnextpartno=1/2 X 3/8 CD-S&Wtky=

But it's probably more expensive than an elbow and a full bore nipple put together. And like you said, you need the male NPT cam locks.
 
i'd think the ID of the 3/8" end would be smaller than the 1/2" street.

-=Jason=-
 
Are these camlocks worth all the trouble? Buying all these extra fittings and having to grind/rig them up? I need to be dang sure of what's best before I invest $150+ in stainless connectors, until then it's my fisrt love, brass qd's, they are awesome.
 
SS has the Bling factor, we sell camlocks at work or well we used to when the market was hot. but the 2" variety for water trucks and fire hoses.

i should see if my vendor has 1/2" and what my cost is ....

being a guy who hasn't bought any tubing or connectors yet I think these are a great investment for a first time buyer

-=Jason=-
 
wildwest450 said:
Are these camlocks worth all the trouble? Buying all these extra fittings and having to grind/rig them up? I need to be dang sure of what's best before I invest $150+ in stainless connectors, until then it's my fisrt love, brass qd's, they are awesome.
Click to expand...

I'm upgrading from polycarbonate QD's. They are cheap, and I kept extras on hand. Last brew, I broke 3. They were easy to break by stepping on them or something like that but then I think they started getting heat stressed and are becoming brittle.

So, I wanted something more robust and I don't think these are a lot more than the brass QD's. Since I'm replacing them all just decided to do what I can to increase the "potential" flow rate.

To be honest, If I had brass QD's I probably would not replace them unless I was having some kind of issue.

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
I'm upgrading from polycarbonate QD's. They are cheap, and I kept extras on hand. Last brew, I broke 3. They were easy to break by stepping on them or something like that but then I think they started getting heat stressed and are becoming brittle.

So, I wanted something more robust and I don't think these are a lot more than the brass QD's. Since I'm replacing them all just decided to do what I can to increase the "potential" flow rate.

To be honest, If I had brass QD's I probably would not replace them unless I was having some kind of issue.

Ed
Click to expand...

Same here. I had all brass with reinforced hose. IMO the silicone hose, even with the 90's doesn't provide near the same support as the braided hose I used with my brass from McMaster Carr.

Also, as far as flow goes, the only time I am going wide open is when I pump my strike water to my MT. All the other times I am either throttling my flow way back to get a one hour fly sparge, or it is bottle necking into my chiller which is 3/8" (IC and CFC).

Maybe if I could get a 1/2" ISD whirpool IC, it would be worth it. They do look nice and are easy to use.
 
wildwest450 said:
Are these camlocks worth all the trouble? Buying all these extra fittings and having to grind/rig them up? I need to be dang sure of what's best before I invest $150+ in stainless connectors, until then it's my fisrt love, brass qd's, they are awesome.
Click to expand...

This whole grinding issue seems to be unnecessary. I stretch 1/2"ID silicon tubing right over the threads, even "twist-locking" them into place before placing a clamp on (not over-tightening).

Works like a charm.
 
Randar said:
This whole grinding issue seems to be unnecessary. I stretch 1/2"ID silicon tubing right over the threads, even "twist-locking" them into place before placing a clamp on (not over-tightening).

Works like a charm.
Click to expand...

The wort can and has worked it way out of the threads and leaked it has been pictured in this thread or maybe it was another thread.

-=Jason=-
 
Flomaster said:
The wort can and has worked it way out of the threads and leaked it has been pictured in this thread or maybe it was another thread.

-=Jason=-
Click to expand...

Yes, if you don't clamp it or push it on far enough. I have a much more powerful pump than most here are using and I have pumped out via the camlocks. Before I clamped I had a leak. Clamps took care of it.

Threads don't cause leaks. People cause leaks.
 
wildwest450 said:
Are these camlocks worth all the trouble? Buying all these extra fittings and having to grind/rig them up? I need to be dang sure of what's best before I invest $150+ in stainless connectors, until then it's my fisrt love, brass qd's, they are awesome.
Click to expand...

Personally, I think extra flow solutions are silly. I bought the barbed ones and the are awesome. Look pro, easy to install and have plenty of flow.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter said:
Personally, I think extra flow solutions are silly. I bought the barbed ones and the are awesome. Look pro, easy to install and have plenty of flow.
Click to expand...

I'm with you on this, BK. I did make a couple of hoses using street elbows/threaded camlocks, but it was purely because it helps prevent kinking, rather than any need for increased flow.
 
Actually, I use both. For my mash recirc, the flow doesn't make any difference and I use the barbed one. For wort chilling, I use a larger bore solution. I think it certainly helps there.
 
Well, I'm doing away with my 3/8" stainless 50' coil- because no matter how I slice it, it isn't good enough (even as a Jamil-o-chill) to chill 15 gallons in the amount of time that I consider acceptable for proper hop utilization. Just going to use it for my starter pot cause it fits right in.

I'm getting a 40 plate dudadiesel in about a week (when their new stock comes in).

I have hooked up my Little Giant 1/25 HP pump with both the high flow solutions and the barb qds and I can tell you that no matter what, I'm getting around 2-3 gpm less with the barbs. I got around 4 gpm with the barb, 5.5 gpm with npt plus npt barb (higher flow), and I can imagine with stretching over npt I'll get around 6-7 gpm, which is what numbers I should get with 2 feet of head and my pump as per LG (actually it's like 7.5).

That means minutes, which is of course the only reason I'm considering spending $ to replace my current chiller. I will also be doing a recirulating jamil-o-plate, so I'm looking for good high flow. If you are doing a plate chill gravity drain right into the fermenter, there's no need.

My calculations lead me to believe with 6 GPM on both the water and wort, I'll get 15 gal from 212 to 68 in about 8 minutes. Yeah! Better than the 45+ I'm getting now.

Not many people think that a 1/25 HP pump is enough, especially for 15 gal, and I can tell you it's way enough for me (with 2 ft head, like I mentioned) and especially with the higher flow solutions it works great. I'd be sad if I spent the dough on a pump that only turns 3 gpm into my chiller. If you have a 1/12 HP pump, it might not be so necessary, but I'll stretch some silicone if it works as good as a $75 more pump.
 
It's not a question of "is it worth it" to do this, it's more a quest to find the quick disconnects with the best flow in a 1/2" config. I don't have brass ones or the stainless morebeers, but I can tell you that these fittings have better flow than my CPC plastic qds that I have- quite a bit.

A barb made for 1/2" hose is going to be sizably less than 1/2" ID, of course, so if grinding threads doesn't suit you, then why not get 1/2" npt to 5/8" hose barb fittings to put on the end and stretch your hose over that. That would work just the same.
 
what size or number Oetiker clamp do I need when using 1/2" silicone over a turned down 1/2" street 90?

I am placing an order to CHI company and would like to get all I need in one shot.


-=Jason=-
 

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