Super easy tap handles

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hausofstrauss

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
180
Reaction score
51
Location
Fishers
I was in a pinch before a big party two years ago and made these tap handles from wooden staircase spindles.

Full instructions here:

http://fermware.com/super-easy-tap-handles/

009-painted-tap-handles-1024x577.jpg



009-Spindle-1024x577.jpg


009-Brass-Insert-831x1024.jpg


Purchase a wooden staircase spindle and the threaded insert. You can get the inserts on Amazon, McMaster or at your favorite local hardware store.

009-cutting-spindle-1024x577.jpg


Cut to size

009-install-brass-insert-1-797x1024.jpg


Drill 1/2" hole (hopefully centered and straight) and install the brass insert. There are tools available to make it install easily, but in a pinch, you'll find something that will work. Also, they are hard to get started straight, so do your best. Usually they pull themselves straight after the first full thread or two. If not, you may want to back it out and start again.

009-install-brass-insert-3-1024x577.jpg


Insert_tool-300x300.jpg

Rockler insert tool

t-handle_insertion_tool-150x150.jpg

Another tool.

009-Stained-tap-handle-577x1024.jpg


Paint or stain, then apply labels with Mod Podge!
 
Those look great. Love the idea. Will steal when I move to kegging for sure.

Cheers!
 
I bought a few slotted inserts and I've yet to find something to make into a tap handle. I will go this route for sure. Thanks for the awesome idea!
 
Threaded inserts tend to start at an angle in your wood stock. To prevent this use a drill press, powered by hand , to start the insert.
Cut the head off a hex bolt which fits the threads of the insert. Screw on a nut and washer with the washer placed to contact the insert. Chuck the bolt and insert assembly. Clamp the wood stock below the chuck. Lower the insert to the wood stock and turn the chuck by hand. The rigidity of the drill press will keep the threaded insert straight as the threads begin cutting into the wood.
 
Those threaded inserts are meant to be installed with the cut outs (i.e. Teeth) fed in first. You then use a bolt and nuts to lock onto the insert and screw it in to your handle. At least that's how I learned to install them.
 
Threaded inserts tend to start at an angle in your wood stock. To prevent this use a drill press, powered by hand , to start the insert.
Cut the head off a hex bolt which fits the threads of the insert. Screw on a nut and washer with the washer placed to contact the insert. Chuck the bolt and insert assembly. Clamp the wood stock below the chuck. Lower the insert to the wood stock and turn the chuck by hand. The rigidity of the drill press will keep the threaded insert straight as the threads begin cutting into the wood.

That's the proper way to do it. My way was the way to do it if you need them done tomorrow and the hardware store is already closed.

In my opinion, it doesn't matter which end goes down. There was mention in the video about the slot helping to cut the threads. I'm not sure if that's exactly the case. I think it was just cheaper for them to manufacture these specific inserts. If you find others, you can see that they aren't fully threaded at the slotted end.

As for the insertion method. If you have the right tool, use it. I updated the initial post to show some options.
 
Didn't even finish the thread before I was in the car less the $5 a handle. Thanks for the idea. Will post a picture of picture of the knock off


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew. Pn
 
Made a keezer for a friend and hes been rocking those cheap plastic handles, started on these today since I searched, and lo and behold, a quick cheap nice looking option, only partway done staining, and used yet another method for putting the inserts in.

20qdyeh.jpg


j8mes4.jpg



$1.63 for insert, $1.98 for 2 spindles, leftover stain, $2.62 for handle, I wont argue with that.
 
Great idea. Might have to steal this when I get rid of the kegorator and build a keezer.
 
Made a keezer for a friend and hes been rocking those cheap plastic handles, started on these today since I searched, and lo and behold, a quick cheap nice looking option, only partway done staining, and used yet another method for putting the inserts in.

j8mes4.jpg

That was the method I had hoped to use. Thanks for the picture showing how to do it.
 
Wonderful results and clever to use those rails as your base. Nicely done.
 
That's effing genius!

I have standard black plastic taps because I don't like anything that I see out there. I want something simple for at home.

I'm thinking of just getting 2x2 and rounding the edges a bit. I'll taper the bottom a bit so that it's easier to thread on. This is pretty bad-ass though. It'll cost me <$5 per handle to make custom handles... can not complain about that!
 
That was the method I had hoped to use. Thanks for the picture showing how to do it.

Gladly, just one caveat, make sure the nut is not so far up the bolt that it gets jammed, that makes it hard to take out without unscrewing the post (at least for me, on the one where I made that mistake). A few threads available keeps the nut from jamming into the wood nut insert thing.
 
You can help get the inserts started straight by making a shallow recess that is the OD of the threads. This holds the body while the leading edge starts cutting and prevents it from tilting.
 
We started using those inserts, such a pain to keep straight when putting them in when making lots, but for a few they work great. Really good write up OP, they look great.
 
We started using those inserts, such a pain to keep straight when putting them in when making lots, but for a few they work great. Really good write up OP, they look great.

Yes, they do take a little extra attention, but extremely convenient.

Nice tap handles on your end though!
 
Back
Top