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British Mild/Ordinary Bitter w/ Pacific Northwest. (NW) Ingredients

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You guys rock. Thanks for all the advice. Ok, I just put in a big order, so I will have some options to play with. I ordered:

50lb bag of NW Pale Ale malt

and then these in smaller quantities:

Great Western Organic Munich
Briess Organic Crystal 120L
Briess Organic Carapils
Briess Victory

As well as a pound of willamette and 1/2lb of US Goldings.

I think I am going to try to avoid Chocolate and roasted barley, and just try to do with the 120L and Victory. What do you think? I am probably going to scale this up to 10 gallons and split it with a friend for a parallel ferment.
 
Here is a revised version of the recipe. Is it a bad idea to mix the Goldings and Willamette? I haven't used them before.

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.75 lb Northwest Pale Ale Malt (2.8 SRM) Grain 63.33 %
2.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 26.67 %
0.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.25 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.50 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 9.2 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (60 min) Hops 9.6 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.9 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1 Pkgs Northwest Ale (Wyeast Labs #1332) [Starter 500 ml] Yeast-Ale

This is 1.040 OG and 1.012 FG according to Beersmith @ 75% efficiency. The IBUs are 25.4 and Est. ABV is 3.66%. I wouldn't mind it a bit stronger but it would be out of style unless I reduced some of the unfermentables while increasing ABV.

Most of my recipes have been simpler than this so far (the variety of grains/hop additions). Am I going overboard?
 
I'm just wrapping up a mild. I used 100% mild malt and adjusted the color with Sinamar. They recipe called for brewer's caramel, which I could not find. So far it has turned out well, and the mild malt really gave a good flavor profile.
 
Here is a revised version of the recipe. Is it a bad idea to mix the Goldings and Willamette? I haven't used them before.

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.75 lb Northwest Pale Ale Malt (2.8 SRM) Grain 63.33 %
2.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 26.67 %
0.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.25 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 3.33 %
0.50 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 9.2 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (60 min) Hops 9.6 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.9 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1 Pkgs Northwest Ale (Wyeast Labs #1332) [Starter 500 ml] Yeast-Ale

This is 1.040 OG and 1.012 FG according to Beersmith @ 75% efficiency. The IBUs are 25.4 and Est. ABV is 3.66%. I wouldn't mind it a bit stronger but it would be out of style unless I reduced some of the unfermentables while increasing ABV.

Most of my recipes have been simpler than this so far (the variety of grains/hop additions). Am I going overboard?

Willamette and Goldings work beautifully together. You're fine there. Two pounds of Munich seems like a lot to me. Your other specialty malts will add some complexity and depth, especially in restrained quarter-pound increments. If you are going for an American Bitter, that much Munich is going to throw the flavor off, I believe. It'll be interesting to see how this turns out.

Chad
 
Ok I'm getting serious about this recipe now. Going to do a 10G batch this weekend and split it with a friend for fermentation. Anyone have any more input on the recipe? I'm going to start my yeast starter soon.
 
I wouldn't worry about the CaraPils. If you want the foam retention, sub in the same amount of wheat malt. Frankly, I think too many brewers just automatically include CaraPils, even when they don't need it. You certainly don't need it in this case. That's the only tweak I'd make.

You're on to a good beer! Have fun!

Bob
 
I wouldn't worry about the CaraPils. If you want the foam retention, sub in the same amount of wheat malt. Frankly, I think too many brewers just automatically include CaraPils, even when they don't need it. You certainly don't need it in this case. That's the only tweak I'd make.

You're on to a good beer! Have fun!

Bob

Ok, I already have a bunch of OG CaraPils on hand so I thought I'd add some. I'm very new to All Grain (and brewing), so I'm still learning how to use the grains. Maybe I'll leave out the CaraPils to see how it is without it.
 
You guys rock. Thanks for all the advice. Ok, I just put in a big order, so I will have some options to play with. I ordered:

50lb bag of NW Pale Ale malt

and then these in smaller quantities:

Great Western Organic Munich
Briess Organic Crystal 120L
Briess Organic Carapils
Briess Victory

As well as a pound of willamette and 1/2lb of US Goldings.

I think I am going to try to avoid Chocolate and roasted barley, and just try to do with the 120L and Victory. What do you think? I am probably going to scale this up to 10 gallons and split it with a friend for a parallel ferment.

I made a good best bitter with only base malt (MO) 3/4 lb crystal 60L and 1/2 lb of victory. It was a very good, easy drinking beer. I used the 1028 london ale yeast, but I think that Northwest Ale strain is english based, no? good luck, sounds good.
 
Ok, I already have a bunch of OG CaraPils on hand so I thought I'd add some. I'm very new to All Grain (and brewing), so I'm still learning how to use the grains. Maybe I'll leave out the CaraPils to see how it is without it.

IMO, CaraPils is a tweak ingredient, not something you start with, that you automatically put into every grist you brew. Body a bit lacking? Foam not as nice as you like? CaraPils fixes both of those. Then again, so can mash temperatures and adding a short rest at 50C... ;)

Bob
 
Well, what did you end up brewing?

BTW- I was wondering about the temp in your place. I'm just a little southwest of you and have been pretty cool lately. But all the data on keeping my brew cool during the coming summer months will come in handy.
 
My place is holding steady at 66-68. I have very good insulation and shared walls with people it is quite stable.

Anyway, I still haven't brewed this yet cuz the guy I want to brew it with has delayed it a bit. We will be brewing this soon! I am excited.
 
Ok I finally brewed this today! First outdoor brew and first 10G batch I have done. Did it with a borrowed keggle and my normal equipment (10g cooler mlt) plus my brand spanking new Bayou SQ14.

Here is the recipe we settled on:

targets
-----
efficiency: 75%
OG: 1.037
IBU: 30

ingredients
-----
10.00 lb Northwest Pale Ale Malt (2.8 SRM) Grain 72.73 %
2.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 14.55 %
1.00 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 7.27 %
0.75 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 5.45 %
1.03 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 11.0 IBU
1.03 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (60 min) Hops 11.4 IBU
1.03 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
1.03 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 2.3 IBU
1.00 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
2 Pkgs Northwest Ale (Wyeast Labs #1332) [Starter 500 ml] Yeast-Ale


I went into the boiler with 54 Quarts (13.5G) at 1.030 so that is 82% efficiency into the boiler. Then we ended up with 11G of beer, so boiloff wasn't quite as we planned, but that resulting wort was 1.035 so we rolled with it and just had an extra gallon of beer. We missed intended 1.037 OG by two points but thats no big deal.

Everything went smooth. It was the warmest day of the year so it was great to be brewing outside on a shady patio under a lilac tree. Too bad I don't have a yard of my own to do this in.


After I have kegged and tapped this, I will update the thread.
 
Here are some pics from the brew day.

Here is all the equipment sprawled out:
1242503798446.jpg


Here is the SQ14 Bayou Classic w/ borrowed keggle:
1242506866430.jpg


Here is the first wort hopping and mashout going down:
1242510273322.jpg


Here are some other hop additions:
1242512853977.jpg


The beautiful lilac tree:
1242511350920.jpg


Fermenting away feverishly:
1242665598682.jpg
 
Looking great! Saturday was a gorgeous day. I'm glad you were enjoying it making beer. Let us know how it turns out.
 
Ok heres an update on this after a few months. The Ordinary Bitter turned out to be pretty good, but there are some things I wanted to tweak. It was a little thin (almost expected..) and the bitterness was a bit low. I think the hops we used might have been getting a little old and didn't pack the punch needed.

I didn't want to make the same recipe again, so instead, I ratcheted it up to an ESB with the same theme (Northwest ingredients). I cut out the munich malt, upped the rest of the grain bill, and upped the ratio of victory malt for a bit more flavor and body. Here is what I ended up with for a 5.5G batch at 80% efficiency:

OG: 1.058
IBU: 42.1

9 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (3.0 SRM) Grain 86.36 %
12.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 6.82 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 4.55 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2.27 %
2.30 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 42.1 IBU
1.00 oz Goldings, US [5.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1 Pkgs Northwest Ale (Wyeast Labs #1332) [Starter 1000 ml] Yeast-Ale


This made a really enjoyable beer. One of my favorites so far of any beer I've made. I am about to blow the keg on it and am debating bottling some. If I were to make it again, I would probably up the Victory malt and the bittering hops, slightly.
 
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