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50 AMP Supply to the brew rig. It was purpose built from the ground up over a 4 year period to be a No Sparge a.k.a. (BIAB) system. 3 batches made so far with each batch better than the previous. 75% efficiency without adding any additional base malts (I just follow) the recipe "as is". Currently making all beers using the recipe's found in Jamil's book - Brewing Classic Styles (80 styles). [/hide]
The brew rig sits on a frame designed so that all my vessels are pretty much at the same level. I have camlocks on all my vessels connecting to the single pump. Using a series of 2-way and 3-way valves have created a system that does not require me to switch hoses between vessels in order to move the wort. There is even a convenient outlet for filling the fermenter at the end of the brew session. I plumbed in a water filter for filling the HLT that will hook up to the garden hose. This will eventually be able to be switched to the plate chiller. All in all, this rig makes brew day a lot less about moving equipment and wort around and more about brewing. Boiling Equipment: Keggle w/ Bayou burner Wort Chillers: Plate chiller w/ immersion pre-chiller Plumbing, Pumps, and Hardware: Steelhead pump
For safety reasons I decided to hire an electrician to install a 4 wire 220 volt 30 amp GFCI breaker and run the line to a receptacle near the location of the EBC-SV brew rig controller. The EBC-SV is the heart of the eBIAB system it runs the Chugger pump and regulates the output of the heating element based on feedback from the temperature probe connected at the kettle lid. The EBC-SV was all setup and ready to go right out of the box all it needed was to be plugged into a 220 volt outlet in order to use it. [/hide]
Played around with brewing off and on for 18 years and this brew rig is where I ended up. I grew up in Oregon and developed a love for good beer early in life. I was stationed in Germany and returned to the US stationed in the southern US, prompted me to brew the European beers I missed. Flash forward and I am now back in Germany but hopefully retiring soon back to Oregon. I buy everything in bulk, looking to upgrade the kettle to 20 gallons, those 10 gallon boils get a little hairy! I also want to upgrade to stainless conical fermentors. [/hide]
This is my brew rig, It has 3 pid temperature controllers with solenoid valves. There are 1/4" stainless ball valves for extra safety to turn the gas off to the burners when not being used. There are also 3/8 needle valves for controlling the flame. It also has a pilot light system built with 1/4" copper lines and needle valves behind each line. [/hide]
Stepped up my game from 5 gallon BIAB to full 1 bbl 3V system. Still dialing it in. Bought 2nd hand from Colorado brewery. Brew for friends and myself now. One day hope to open nano. Boiling Equipment: 45 gallon stainless HLT, MT, Boil Kettle. Has PID and oxygenation system. Fermentation Vessels and Equipment: 1 bbl stout conicals with freezers and temp control Wort Chillers: Dudadiesel 40 plate Plumbing, Pumps and Hardware: Chugger pumps, 1/2" silcone Measuring, Testing,& Stirring Devices: Hydrometer, dog, friends and family Cleansers and Sanitizers: PBW & Starsan
Thanks for checking out my brew rig. Please feel free to help out with any suggestions. Here is my process: I fill my BK with the total volume I calculated I will use. I have an icemaker line from my OR tanks with a quick connect and heat the water as the BK is filling. Once I have adjusted the PH and added water treatments and hit my target temp I pump my strike water to the MLT. I mash in at my target temp and then bring it back up to the target with the HERMS coil. One pump circulates the wort through the built-in coil in BK and the other whirlpools the BK. The MLT holds two degrees under the BK temp. On mash out I pump the sparge water through the coil to the HLT and drain the coil to the HLT. I pump from the HLT to an auto-sparge in the MLT and pump from the MLT to the BK and control the sparge speed with just the one BK valve. Once the HLT is empty I turn off the first pump and once the MLT is empty turn off the second pump and clean and put away the MLT. I then fill the HLT...
220 volt electric BIAB brew rig using overnight no chill. My brew day is as short and simple as possible with an all grain batch. Using a liquid yeast starter on a stir plate from the wort it will go into the next day, along with pure O2 aeration consistently provides clean exceptionally tasty brew. Boiling Equipment: 16 gallon keggle Fermentation Vessels and Equipment: Better bottles and temp controlled ferm fridge Wort Chillers: No chill
Trying to brew on a budget has always been a goal of mine. But after 5 years of cutting corners I was looking to upgrade my brew rig, slightly. I built a three tiered gravity feed system on wheels, however after the build I invested in a plate chiller and pump to help with aeration, utilizing the venturi effect, and chilling. The system is able to handle anywhere from 5-15 gallon batches with the right grain bill. It is mostly used for 5 gallons because of my single 6.5 gallon SS technologies brew bucket. With some basic wood working skills and cheap buys I have all I would ever need to brew the beer that I want. I have finally finished my rig... for now. [/hide]
Boiling Equipment: Blichmann boilermaker 30gallon boil kettle, 20 gallon HLT, 20 gallon Mash Tun with false bottom. HLT and Kettle both have 1.5" tri-clamp ferrules welded on low to accommodate stainless 5500W elements. Beer Bottling Gear: I have 2 colona cappers (NB has great customer service!) beer bottling tree. Magic straw bottler Fermentation Vessels and Equipment: Brewer's Hardware 20 gallon conical fermentors (excellent investment) Wort Chillers: Blichmann Therminator. Would like to replace eventually. The Blich is just a little wonky Plumbing, Pumps and Hardware: Chugger pump and all TC fittings. Measuring, Testing,& Stirring Devices: Hannah pH meter, 3 hydrometers for different ranges, floating thermometer, RTD electronic temperature probes, Auber Instruments PIDs controlling RIMS/HLT/Kettle. I recently bought a whirlpool arm from brewhardware.com, Bobby has some pretty cool devices and that whirlpool arm is one of them. Yeast Equipment: 2 5L Erlenmeyer flasks and 2...
I just upgraded my brew rig from an electric 5 gallon batch rig (had 10 gallon kettles and a 10 gallon orange Home Depot cooler as a mashtun) to this electric 10 gallon batch rig. I learned a lot from brewing on my 5 gallon rig and added the "I wish I had" to these custom 20 gallon Spike Brewing kettles. The temp probe for my BK in my old rig was high up, almost in the center of the 10 gallon kettle so on my 20 gallon kettles, I had them moved down to the bottom so that I can still do 5 gallon batches when I want too. Also on my old rig, the electrical elements were attached on via weldless fittings. I could move the kettle around to easy as the cord to the elements were wrapped up. On these new kettles I had Spike add 2 inch TC ports on them so that I can remove the elements and easily bring the kettles over to the sink to wash out. I have two SS Brewtech Chronicals (a 7 gallon for my 5 gallon batches and a 14 gallon for my 10 gallon batches) both fitted with their FTSS temp...
15 Gallon EHERMS system controlled by Kal control panel, has two boil coils, two chugger pumps and quick disconnects attached to silicone tubing. Homemade wood and fiberglass vent hood with 449 CFM Vortex Fan. In-line carbon filter water filter setup. Shirron Plate Chiller. [/hide]
So, after looking at the simple setup that WortMonger uses for his 3-tier system (i.e., one center steel tube with the kegs bolted to it), I was looking at building one. This is when I noticed the already installed, 9' tall steel tube in my driveway. Is there any reason I couldn't just drill holes into the existing basketball post for the bolted keg attachments and use it as a brew stand? The only issue I can think of off-hand is that the paint that it is currently coated with may not stand up to the heat. Boiling Equipment: Converted sanke keg Beer Bottling Gear: Bottling bucket and wand Fermentation Vessels and Equipment: Carboys and buckets Wort Chillers: DIY copper chiller Plumbing, Pumps, and Hardware: None
Ten-gallon gravity three tier system. Everything in the system was designed to keep brew day easy and clean-up as simple and easy as possible, ie: Batch sparge Gravity fed (no pumps or other equipment to clean) Immersion chiller (no plates or CFC to clean) 2 tap keg fridge with room for 2 additional carbonation kegs Custom fermentation chamber with Ranco two-stage controller for heating/cooling cycles. Fermentation Chamber: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=525166 HLT Stand: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=524398 Obviously efficiency is a little lower than more complex systems, I bump up the grain bill a little for each batch. Boiling Equipment: HLT - 15 gal Bayou Classic SS pot w/ BC burner on welded square steel stand Mash Tun - 25 gal Igloo cooler w/ SS bulkhead and dual bazookas Boil Pot - 20 gal SS Brewing pot on Blichmann burner Barley Crusher grain mill Beer Bottling Gear: Ball lock Corny kegs, two-tap kegerator Fermentation Vessels and Equipment...